I pulled the turbo off to clean it up, I think this maybe a overboost issue I had a few weeks ago.

I just split the turbo open to clean the unison ring and vanes, but have a question. Do I need to remove the actuator or the vgt solenoid before I remove the unison ring? It doesn't look like the internal of the turbo is bad at all, but the unison ring wont come off. I dont think the unison ring is stuck on the housing, I think the ring is being pushed by the actuator to its limit causing it to be tight and not easily removed. Do I just pry the unison ring off? Is something wrong here? I made a video and posted it to youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yj4G...ature=youtu.be

Thanks!

 

DO NOT remove the VGT valve. The ring is stuck. Give it a tap or soak it with WD40 or one of your choice. The valve operates on oil pressure.

 

Sounds like it's stuck good.

I'd definitely use some WD-40 or Liquid Wrench Penetrating oil.

 

Thanks guys. I soaked it with WD-40 and tapped it, it didnt budge. I Tapped and pried it off. Going to clean it all up and throw it back on the truck. Ill let you know how it goes...

 

I bought this hub cleaning kit from NAPA to clean between vane pins. Worked Great!!! Then used die grinder and pad to clean flat side of unision ring, resting surface and vanes.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-07547-Scotc.../dp/B0013HHNPY

Shop around though. They very in price. Mine was on clearance for 20 bucks. Take your time. I didn't use anti seize either. Anothony said it's not necessary. I took his advice.

 

Ya, mine stuck too at 80k. Now it's failing again at 105k. I'm pulling it apart this week after ordering a new unison ring and cleaning utensils.
I'll too update all on the project. Just not sure cleaning a stuck ring will recover?

 

Cleaning the ring well is important but more so pay attention to the turbine housing in which it rides in. The build up of rust there is what seizes the ring.
These trucks need to get out there and ran hard every now and again. They're made to work and get cranky if they sit around.

 

I do not drive this truck much, and when I do I baby it because I am afraid of repairs. This past trip put a good load on the truck towing the trailer up 4k elevation. I probably put 3-4k miles on the truck a year. I bout it used 3 years ago with 125k miles on it and it has under 140k right now.

 

Not trying to start a debate here at all...

With how you use the truck, you should have bought a V10. A diesel is nice, it's powerful, and doesn't have to work as hard to accomplish the same thing a gas engine would, diesels just don't like to sit no matter how you slice it.

Sure you would've had to potentially re-gear the V10 to 4.30 gears for the best towing experience, but you wouldn't need to worry about expensive repairs like headgaskets, a blown EGR cooler, or clogged oil cooler. Even if you bought the equivalent of your truck in a 3 valve V10, you'd be quite happy with the power and even tuning options.

This is something you should consider as no one should have to worry about what they drive and if something will be dependable when they need it.

 

I think I am finding that out. The main reason I got the 3/4 truck is that at 10k pounds, my trailer is at the very max of a 1/2 ton and we go up a lot of hills and go in the sand in the desert towing the trailer. I was able to get this truck for a very good price when I bought it so I went for it. But you may be right. I want a reliable truck to drive me around town two or three days a week, and tow my trailer 10 weekends out of the year. I may consider selling the truck once it is up and running properly and get a gas F250...

Back onto the turbo issue at hand... I have been cleaning the turbo for about 40 minutes now and have made good progress, but the unison ring still does not move super easy like on the videos I watched. Should I try using a more aggressive abrasive to clean the turbo housing? Maybe 220 sand paper? I used a scotch brite type of material for 20 min with little results, then switched to a wire wheel. I can now put the unison ring on the housing and move it when I push with both hands hard... I also have some pitting on the housing, not sure if it is bad enough to buy a new turbo. Thoughts? I really do not have the money to buy a new turbo ($1000 at autozone!), but I need the truck running properly.

 

By the way, here is a video of my unison ring and housing cleaning progress:
youtu.be/-qYMWFg_2Vo

What should I do? Keep cleaning with the wire wheel? Use more aggressive sand paper or something?

 

Look at the inside of the ring and the place where it sits.
You may want to look at brushing that to remove any carbon/rust.
Then check all the slots to make sure they are not chewed up.
Assemble and go climb some hills once a week at full boost.




Merry Christmas


Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

It's not just the flat surface, it's the edges of the UR and the parts of the housing they contact. A lot of the "pitting" you see is rust that's built up. Don't get too aggressive, but you need to get rid of that crap and DON"T use anti seize on any of those parts. The actuator area around the VGT solenoid arm should be carefully cleaned also but it doesn't move easily because of the oil. The UR will slide quite easily when all the parts are clean enough.

 

I'm in the same boat as I have a company vehicle that I drive a ton. I understand the issue with the stock turbo, but is this issue taken care of with the Powermax?

 

Why dont you want to remove the VGT valve for cleaning? B.