Good afternoon all i recently purchased a distributor for my engine and i am rebuilding it. My question is where do the lines for the vacuum advance go i know one goes to carb where does the second one go?

 

Imagine more knowledgeable members will be chiming in, installed Holley carbs in both 65's and 1 end of the vacuum line comes off the metered vacuum port, and the other end connects to the vacuum advance module. Posting link to similar thread, may find helpful and then again may not?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...m-advance.html

 

So the front goes to timed port what does the one on top go to

 

Sorry flip that one on top goes to timed port one on right is where im confused

 

The vacuum advance unit you show is for a later engine. Unless you need to license the truck in California, or other region with strong emission checks, you can cap the rear port and run a vacuum line between the front port and a ported, or timed vacuum source on the carb, just as Dave posted.

Originally the rear port was for a vacuum retard function and typically had a vacuum line from a full manifold vacuum source, routed through a temperature-vacuum switch.

Autolite (2v and 4v) and Motorcraft (2v) carbs have their ported (timed, metered)vacuum on the passenger side, forward of the choke assembly, near the base of the carb.
Holley(2 and 4 barrel) carbs typically have their ported source in a similar location, only being a bit higher on the side of the carb, near the top of the metering block.
If you happen to have an Edelbrock 4 barrel there are two vacuum ports on the front of the carb, passenger side. The ported source is the higher of the two ports.

Hope this helps.

 

Ahh ok makes sense so it would be safe to order a new advance with just the timed vacuum source im rebuilding the whole thing its old and needs a freshining for my project

 

If that vacuum advance came with the distributor it is probably the wrong distributor. Can you post some pictures of it?

 

The distributor came off a 71 351w mustang atleast i hope it did it was an ebay buy i dont have pictures on hand. At work right now but will when i can

 

Problem is, how do you know it's in any better condition than the one you were using? End play, run out, breaker plate bearings/bushings, vacuum diaphragm, etc. Worn out distributors cause a bunch of problems. Cardone rebuild, at least the one I bought, was excellent quality and about 80 bucks. Money well spent.

 

I dont but i wasnt running anything this is the first one but im rebuilding it new breaker plate vacuum advance electronic conversion cap and rotor the only thing i cant find is weights to replace and the gear itself looks to be in good condition

 

OK, I didn't see anywhere that you said you had a 351. 61-66 trucks didn't have 351's

 

My apologies its a swap into a 65 f100

 

No problem. Our crystal ***** seem to fog up when we don't have all the info LOL.

 

I hear that are you possibly familiar with crank pulleys and the difference between driverside and passenger side water pump and the pulley size

 

You didn't mention replacing the bushings or having checked the shaft end play.

Typically, older point type distributors will have excessive side to side shaft play (shaft wobble) due to the constant pressure applied by the points on one side of the shaft.

In my experience shaft end play usually isn't an issue if the distributor gear looks decent and has a centered wear pattern.

Ford shop or service literature can give you allowable limits / dimensions for the shaft wobble and end play for your specific distributor.

Since your distributor came from an emissions era engine it might not hurt to have the advance curve checked and possibly re worked for something a bit less emission oriented. I would do this after the new vacuum advance diaphragm in installed.