Timing problem
#1
Timing problem
I'm Having a issue timing my 05 5.4.i replaced the cams,followers,lash-adjusters(Ford),phasers(Dorman),timing kit(Cloyes). I have the crank key way at 11o-clock,the mark on the crank sprocket is at 6o-clock. When I put the chain on drivers side I am having a hard time putting the tinsioner on and having tinsion on the lower side of chain. Help is needed!!!
#2
I haven't actually done a phaser job on a 5.4 triton (YET), but have been studying diligently preparing for the eventuality. I thought surely SOMEBODY with first hand experience would have chimed in and tried to help by now.
But that not being the case, my thoughts (subject to the above disclosure) are: If you replaced lash adjusters & followers - you HAD to remove old followers. Seems you would NOT have reinstalled them Before putting chains, guides and tensioners back on. If that's the case, the cam should turn - forward OR backward easily to line up chain timing marks and install the guides and tensioner's. Then when you pull the grenade pin on the tensioners - chazzam! Seems like all the slack on the lower side of the chain would jerk out straight immediately. There isn't anything to prevent it. (unless the damn chain is too long - LOL, or one or the other chain sprockets is too small - LOL again).
From this layman's description - what is going on different that has not been mentioned?
But that not being the case, my thoughts (subject to the above disclosure) are: If you replaced lash adjusters & followers - you HAD to remove old followers. Seems you would NOT have reinstalled them Before putting chains, guides and tensioners back on. If that's the case, the cam should turn - forward OR backward easily to line up chain timing marks and install the guides and tensioner's. Then when you pull the grenade pin on the tensioners - chazzam! Seems like all the slack on the lower side of the chain would jerk out straight immediately. There isn't anything to prevent it. (unless the damn chain is too long - LOL, or one or the other chain sprockets is too small - LOL again).
From this layman's description - what is going on different that has not been mentioned?
Last edited by F150Torqued; 11-15-2015 at 05:36 PM. Reason: spelling
#3
Loosen the cam caps to a point the cam will rotate without moving the valves. You can then put the single colored link on the crank sprocket then hold tension on the chain while putting the L with the arrow (drivers side) between the 2 colored links. Loosening the cam caps allows you to rotate the cam enough to position the 2 colored links without having to remove all the rockers. Note that some of the rockers may slide out due to gravity. Slowly tighten the cam caps until enough tension is there to replace any rockers that may have slipped out. Then torque the caps down according to the manual. The same is true for the right side except the 2 colored links go between the R with the arrow. Also note that sometimes it is hard to see if the single colored link is on the dot on the crank sprocket. Use a mirror to view the position, it helps a lot.
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#4
@flyguy108
If @05FordTough has a spring compression tool, (I assume he does), and if followers have been installed -- would it not be preferable to remove the three or so followers on each bank with spring pressure on them?
Also, when/if I do the job on mine - would you recommend to position the crank timing mark before tearing down. Then remove followers first and then all timing components. Putting the timing components all back together first and time everything, THEN install the followers LAST?
Since I plan on replacing all lifters & followers anyway, this is sort of the procedure I have been picturing in my mind.
If @05FordTough has a spring compression tool, (I assume he does), and if followers have been installed -- would it not be preferable to remove the three or so followers on each bank with spring pressure on them?
Also, when/if I do the job on mine - would you recommend to position the crank timing mark before tearing down. Then remove followers first and then all timing components. Putting the timing components all back together first and time everything, THEN install the followers LAST?
Since I plan on replacing all lifters & followers anyway, this is sort of the procedure I have been picturing in my mind.
#5
If he has the spring compressor then removing the 3 followers on each side to unload the cam would be fine. I found the rear spring to be a pain in the butt to get to with the compressor.
As for your job I would position the crank as if I were just doing a phaser replacement (the full time starts the same way). Then unload the cam by pulling the 3 rockers on each side, a screwdriver works good here. Then using the wedge, remove each phaser. After that you can pull everything apart. I did mine this way and did not have to worry about the cam snapping back and screwing up the timing because with the phasers removed the cam cannot move the crank. As for putting it back together follow the manual to time it and leave the cam caps loose and rockers out until your chains are on and tensioner pins pulled then you can snug down the cam caps to a point where you can slide the rockers in with some drag to hold them in place, torque down the caps and replace all the other pieces.
As for your job I would position the crank as if I were just doing a phaser replacement (the full time starts the same way). Then unload the cam by pulling the 3 rockers on each side, a screwdriver works good here. Then using the wedge, remove each phaser. After that you can pull everything apart. I did mine this way and did not have to worry about the cam snapping back and screwing up the timing because with the phasers removed the cam cannot move the crank. As for putting it back together follow the manual to time it and leave the cam caps loose and rockers out until your chains are on and tensioner pins pulled then you can snug down the cam caps to a point where you can slide the rockers in with some drag to hold them in place, torque down the caps and replace all the other pieces.
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