Replacing injector orings and glow plugs on Wednesday. Any advice or suggestions? Certain tools I might need? This will be my first time pulling the injectors so I am a little nervous. Hope all goes well. Hopefully between the two it will improve the cold start issues I have been having.

 

I know you are not replacing injectors for different ones, but I started a long and very informative discussion on injectors a couple of weeks ago. Might be worth your time to take a look.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ad-aa-etc.html

Also, there are a few videos on YouTube with "some good" info.

 

Thank you for the link. Will check it out.

 

Take your time and read and print how to's. When I did my first removal and install I printed off the instructions from the RiffRaff site and that by far was the best tool in the box. Also have a good torque wrench that is in inch pounds. A good 1/4" drive 13mm swivel socket for the valve covers 10mm for the glowplugs and a piece of tubing to fit over the end of the glowplug to twist them out. A 8mm for the hold down bolts on the injectors. I believe a 1/8" Allen head socket for the oil rail plugs. A 5/16" nut driver for the worm gear clamps. A deep 7/16" socket for the cac tubes a good head lamp that is bright so you can see what you are doing. A step stool. Rags, oil, and patience. Also it helps if you are able to park on a level surface so you can let it idle after you get it together to get it to operating temperature. Also need a 3/16 or 1/4" Allen head for the oil deflector.

 

Hardest part of the whole job is that one back bolt on the driver side valve cover. Make sure you have a thin wall socket to remove the glow plugs for oil evacuation. (Might be worth swapping the glow plugs out since you're pulling them anyway).

The other part I've seen people have trouble with is prying out the old injectors. Remember there is an upper and lower injector hold down bolt. You will remove the lower during the process, but not the upper. Be sure and slide the hold down plate up and off the upper bolt before you try and pry it out.

Make sure you have a small right angle pry bar handy for the removal. And of course, it's easier to pull the back ones first and remove the oil from those cylinders before you pull the other injectors (as long as one of those cylinders isn't at the top)

 

Here are some great instructions with pictures.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf

 

I am starting to get cold feet with all of this oil draining here, plugs there. I have replaced the glow plugs once before so I have had the valve covers off a couple of times. I have new ones again to go in. So that's no big deal. I have a hand mityvac that I was gonna try to get the oil out of the cylinders with. Hope that works.

 

Thank you duck fan. That's a nice instruction sheet. Does anybody have a picture are to were these oil plugs are to remove to bleed air?

 

The mighty vac is fine as long as the hose fits down inside the glow plug hole.

The plugs aren't to bleed the air, just to help bleed the oil. They don't drain all the oil out, so you still need to suck it out with your mighty vac. Personally I'd skip the plugs. That way you don't have to worry about stripping one, forgetting to put it back in, or getting a leak there. You've got to pump out the cylinder anyway.

I also like to disable the engine and crank the motor a few times with the glow plugs out to get rid of any oil left in there before you button it all back up.

 

Yep, that is how I do it.


If the OP has any questions just give me a call, much easier to answer a quick question while you are in the middle of it.

 

I know everyone says it's a 1 day job. If you work on the slow side it could easily be 2x that.


Cover the holes in the head with rags or paper towels at all times. The last thing you want is to drop something in there.

I went as far as to tape my sockets and extensions together just to avoid the chance of a socket falling off and landing in exactly the wrong spot.

Use a long tube for sucking the oil out of the cylinder. Something that cannot fall in. You want to bottom it on the piston anyway.

If you use a shop vac to get the oil out drain the shop vac hose. Cut the top off a milk carton and hang the hose with both ends in the milk carton. Let it sit for a few days.

Don't warm up the engine (higher RPM ) with the VCs off...

Put a piece of cardboard under the exhaust when you first start it. The oil ejected by turn over by hand will come out the exhaust.

I left the injectors unplugged and cranked the engine a number of times (need a battery charger too...) in order to get oil into the injectors before having them operate. You can check the oil pressure in the head with a scan tool...

 

I am thinking about trying to get the valve covers off today that way I have a jump start for tomorrow. I am hoping I can have it done tomorrow. I need to get the truck back on the road. I have my fingers crossed for sure.

 

No one has mentioned to drain the hpop rails. When you remove the valve covers there are 2 torque screws on each head on the hpop rail I think they are 25mm, let the rail drain and you wont have oil going into the cylinders good luck

 

They are a hex socket....either 1/8" or 5/32"...been a while since I've been in there. I use a 3/8" diameter drift punch and tap them sharply..helps to break them loose. And you'll still get some oil and fuel in the cylinder. As others have said, remove the rearmost injector first.

 

I believe post 9 and 10 above were referencing the oil rail drain plugs. If I am mistaken, please disregard this post.