Best battery for the money?
#1
Best battery for the money?
I know this has been descused before, but the search function on a mobile device isn't that great or I'm just not that smart. So what I'm wondering is what is the best battery for the money. I'm talking $100, $150 range. I know there are better for more money but can't spend that kind of change. Just got the new 220 amp alternator yesterday. So todays project is to get new heavy gauge wires made and pick up 2 new batteries and do the install. What gauge wire from battery to alternator? I was thinking 2 or 4 gauge. And I seen a couple threads that going bigger from battety to battery is not that necessary, what do the experts think of that? Also going to clean up all the ground connections and maybe add the extra ground to the block.
#3
#4
One thing to consider all things being equal, no matter what brand you decide batteries have a shelf life and just like a loaf of bread fresher is always better and we want to utilize in the best way for our dollar. Big volume high turnover vendors will have fresher stock than an out of the way dusty rack at the hardware store. Oddball sizes don't move fast either.
Batteries are sold on a rotated basis but look at the date codes, often on a sticker on the side, and buy the newest battery they have. Two or three months is OK, a year and a half not so much. You may have to do a little sleuthing to decipher the code, but each manufacturer has their secret decoder ring posted online somewhere. Batteries run parallel need to be closely matched, so make doubly sure their age and lot # etc., is exactly the same.
Lastly always charge them at a slow rate for 12 hours or overnight before installation. "Maintenance free" sealed lead-acid batteries are fully charged at 12.84 volts, but will need to be charged to almost 15 volts to get there. Let them "cook" a few hours. Tenths of a volt matter, the difference between charged and dead is less than a single volt. While it's possible to overcharge a flooded lead-acid battery it takes dedicated effort.
Batteries are sold on a rotated basis but look at the date codes, often on a sticker on the side, and buy the newest battery they have. Two or three months is OK, a year and a half not so much. You may have to do a little sleuthing to decipher the code, but each manufacturer has their secret decoder ring posted online somewhere. Batteries run parallel need to be closely matched, so make doubly sure their age and lot # etc., is exactly the same.
Lastly always charge them at a slow rate for 12 hours or overnight before installation. "Maintenance free" sealed lead-acid batteries are fully charged at 12.84 volts, but will need to be charged to almost 15 volts to get there. Let them "cook" a few hours. Tenths of a volt matter, the difference between charged and dead is less than a single volt. While it's possible to overcharge a flooded lead-acid battery it takes dedicated effort.
#6
#7
For a 220a alt a 2ga would be more then enough to get to the battery terminal, but I would still keep the factory cable too.
A layover of an additional 2ga battery positive to battery positive gains about 0.1 to 0.2v over the factory cable during the highest current flow, starting. I have another video that I need to finish that shows the results on my truck adding a second 2ga, which effectively brings all the battery cables to a 1/0 rating.
So far at almost three years I'm pretty impressed with the results I'm getting from the Walmart Maxx (Johnson Control), compared to the Mototcraft I had. Of course the Motorcraft are not the same as the batteries installed in the truck on the assembly line, but buying those (if you can get the parts person to look them up) carry a higher price tag then you are looking at.
A layover of an additional 2ga battery positive to battery positive gains about 0.1 to 0.2v over the factory cable during the highest current flow, starting. I have another video that I need to finish that shows the results on my truck adding a second 2ga, which effectively brings all the battery cables to a 1/0 rating.
So far at almost three years I'm pretty impressed with the results I'm getting from the Walmart Maxx (Johnson Control), compared to the Mototcraft I had. Of course the Motorcraft are not the same as the batteries installed in the truck on the assembly line, but buying those (if you can get the parts person to look them up) carry a higher price tag then you are looking at.
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#8
Local dealer here has them for $132/ea. (that is the correct part # btw)
They even claim their batteries last 3 times longer than any competition.
https://parts.cat.com/en/catcorp/sea...um-high-output
I'll be buying them when the time comes.
#9
Thanks for the feed back guys. Think I'm going to go with the Advanced Auto golds. I have a store about 20 miles away. The closest Cat dealer is 75, and I just have a hard time buying truck parts at the grocery store. Guess I'll have a few cups of coffee and when the parts places open get to work. Thanks again.
#10
$104 for Duracell @ Sams. 36 month free replacement. Had them for 6 months no issues.
850 CCA @ 0*
Duracell® Automotive Battery - Group Size 65 - Sam's Club
850 CCA @ 0*
Duracell® Automotive Battery - Group Size 65 - Sam's Club
#11
#12
Yes it should. The OE wires have fuse links, smaller gauge wire that should "burn up" if the current exceeds their capacity. The thread that Tim linked to above shows the fuse I've used.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15663665
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15663665
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