Ok, I will try to be succinct:

2001 Excursion 7.3 - stalls randomly, sometimes will not start. After the IPR was replaced it was rough for about 4 miles (I thought maybe air in the system), next 40 miles was flawless with 3 stops and restarts. Then it sat for a few hours and I went to leave again and the problem was off and on again for another 5 mile drive. Now it won't start in the driveway. It will start if I disconnect the ICP but the idle is still a little rough.

I replaced the normal culprits after a lot of searching on here:

• CPS - replaced with autozone part, thought maybe it was bad new so went to ford and replaced with official part from the dealer
• ICP - had oil in the plug and it would idle better removed so I replaced the plug and as much wire as I could - soldered, heat shrunk, good connections - both the pigtail and sensor came from Ford dealer
• IPR - replaced with part from the Ford Dealer (FYI - 1 1/8" 1/2" drive craftsman deep socket from sears fit in the ratchet and on the part).
• Grounds - found somewhere that the ground on the firewall for the windshield wipers can interfere with the CPS so I pulled it, clean the connections and made sure it was tight and secure.
• No check engine light now - I received a few through the process, but did not clear them and there are no codes at this time (self cleared on the 40 mile drive)

I'm thinking it may be some electrical issue/short or a fuel issue at this point, bowl is full and the filter is fairly new (few thousand miles). I haven't done the Hutch mod, but have over 1/2 a tank.

I'm trying to get this going as quick as I can so I don't want to waste too much time, but I also don't want to miss a critical troubleshooting step to take.

Below are my thoughts on the next steps.

• Research and test fuel pressure
• Tow it somewhere to test each injector - I only have Torque pro to read codes and engine status
• If fuel delivery checks out ok, start testing wire by wire on all of the above parts.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated - the answer may be in this forum but I'm running into information overload and would like a planned approach to continue troubleshooting.

 

Try disconnecting the fuel bowel heater and see if it starts.

 

Do you have a ts style chip? If so remove it and give it a try.

 

I will try to research, locate and try the fuel bowl heater - wasn't aware of this one. No chip and injectors, intake and exhaust - all are stock.

So, I lied, after the last engine stumble and now will not restart, I have some codes. I'm not sure if some of these are from me starting it with the ICP unplugged to test that.


P0683 - Glow Plug Control Module
P1211 - injector control pressure higher than desired (engine on)
P1210 - injector control pressure higher than desired (engine off)
P1316 - Injector circuit/IDM codes detected
P1670 - miscommunication between the IDM and PCM
P1280 - indicates injector control signal circuit out of range low

 

How did you read those codes?

Can you clear codes, the see what comes back?

 

dnd58 - I read the codes with Torque Pro app on a tablet, I will clear and retry a startup - it will be a while now, no breaks in the work schedule for a while.

 

Cleared codes and tried to restart - one code came back - P1670

I'll check the fuse and the relay for the IDM later tonight. I found refurbished IDMs from 'neat computers' online for $140 - does anyone have experience with these? LINK

Excursion was not an option on their Ford models.

 

Check the bottom of the 42 pin engine harness that goes across the driver side valve cover. It can rub on the valve cover and expose the wire. I had similar problems with random dying and no restart then start up all the sudden.

 

How are your batteries? Have they been charged and load tested? That P1670 can pop up when cranking with low battery voltage.

 

With your codes and the random start stall, I'd start by checking for chaffed or brittle wires on the ICP and IPR. Also make sure the tin nut is secure on the back of the IPR.

Ignore the P1670 for now, but for future reference, there's no difference in the Excursion and the F250/F350 IDM's.

 

Thanks for all of the feedback - please keep it coming.

Batteries are 2 years old, I'm charging on and off but I have drained them to the point that she is slow to turnover a couple times during this troubleshooting.

Unplugged the fuel bowl heater - no improvement

Visually inspected wires at ICP and IPR and neither appear chafed or broken, tin nut is tight on the back of the IPR an no seepage around the o-ring after the recent replacement.

Cleared codes - P1670 is gone and not coming back when I attempt to start now.

Current status: She starts and runs for just a few seconds and shuts off, no check engine light

I believe my next step is to find a scanner that will run a buzz test - from researching, if there are none successful then the IDM is shot, otherwise I need to step back and re-think.

Harness across the valve cover, is this worth breaking into the factory sheathing? The images I've searched for looked much worse than this (also shown is inside the plug [some pins appear to be covered in a white powder substance] and the wires at the IDM):

 

That white stuff should be cleaned off with contact cleaner. I theorize it's just old dried-out dielectric grease, but I am unsure.

I think we have multiple common issues here - UVCH and thick oil on a cool day. The UVCH link in my signature should help out, and the last link in my signature is a great thing to have with your OBDII gauges.

Have you plugged in the engine heater for about 2-3 hours while you wait for the batteries to charge?

 

Thanks Tugly, I'll get to reading and ohm test using those images for reference.

I forgot to mention, but both UVCHs have been replaced - one in late 2014 and one in early 2015 no issues since except this recent situation. It's been in the 80s here in central Texas.

EDIT: By the way Tugly - that is quite a collection of information in your signature, when I get through this one I'm going to steal a couple to share as well!!! Reps sent.

 

Downloaded Car Gauge Pro and ran a buzz test:

P0282 - Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Low
P1268 - Cylinder #8 High To Low Side Short
P1292 - Injector High Side Short To GND or VBATT - Bank 2

Time to dig into these

 

Look for a chafed wire from the 42-pin connector touching the driver side valve cover. Thanks for the reps!