Changing spark plugs on 6.2l
#16
anti-seize will affect how things torque down, as it acts as a lubricant, so torquing something to X ft-lbs will be screwed a little further than without it [so more actual pressure will be on the threads and clamping surfaces].
in general, it doesn't make a significant difference, but for somethings, it can cause problems, like for bolts into aluminum
in general, it doesn't make a significant difference, but for somethings, it can cause problems, like for bolts into aluminum
#17
I do not think 2 or 3 foot pounds will make any difference. on 1 1/2 inches of thread.
most torque wrenches are within 2 to 4 foot pounds
https://www.fastenal.com/en/83/torque-calculator
most torque wrenches are within 2 to 4 foot pounds
https://www.fastenal.com/en/83/torque-calculator
#18
The comments here pretty much summed up the pros and cons. I followed the posted Ford guideline for changing the plugs, bought the plugs the engine was designed with, and since they didn't come with anti-seize the first time, they didn't get it this time. Time will tell if I made a big mistake or not, but by the time they need changing again, if I still have the truck, I will probably be too old to be changing them myself.
I absolutely love this truck, but because I keep my trucks so long, I go through a culture shock when I get a new one. There have been a lot of changes in the 15 years between the '96 Bronco and the '11 SD. Trying to find info on changing the plugs wasn't easy because the engine is relatively new and a lot of folks hadn't gotten to the 105k miles when the plugs are supposed to be changed. I do appreciate the input from the folks on this forum - it's been a big help.
I absolutely love this truck, but because I keep my trucks so long, I go through a culture shock when I get a new one. There have been a lot of changes in the 15 years between the '96 Bronco and the '11 SD. Trying to find info on changing the plugs wasn't easy because the engine is relatively new and a lot of folks hadn't gotten to the 105k miles when the plugs are supposed to be changed. I do appreciate the input from the folks on this forum - it's been a big help.
#19
Not using anti-seize is not a big deal.. just makes things easier later... and reduces the chance of issues...
mostly for Rust belt issues.. and if the truck does Snow Plow duties.. its a must..
If the spark plugs RUST into the heads.. and it does happen a lot around here.
New heads, or give lots of money to a machine shop to rework original heads.
mostly for Rust belt issues.. and if the truck does Snow Plow duties.. its a must..
If the spark plugs RUST into the heads.. and it does happen a lot around here.
New heads, or give lots of money to a machine shop to rework original heads.
#20
So I just finished. People suggested removing wheel well liner but there was no mention of removing the tires. I needed to check the brakes so I removed the tires but am not including it in my time. Actually right now I am taking a break and still have to put the tires on. I highly suggest taking the tires off. Was nice not having anything in the way. I set the stop watch after I got the tires off and stopped it when I finished the air box. It read 2 hrs 56 min. 2 plugs broke the porcelain. But that is no big deal. I think the hardest ones where the drivers side bottom two closest to the grill. And even those weren't bad. I did the bottom 8 first. Wanted to get the hard ones out of the way.
Must have a Friday truck. Every coil pack on the passenger side wasn't even hand tight. I put a wrench on the first one and it was loose. The other three were also loose and didn't need the wrench either. I didn't remove the pigtail. There was enough wire to pull them off and to the side.
As far as the anti seize & dielectric grease. I used both. The anti seize packet actually has a spark plug on it and shows where to put it. Found that kinda funny. I put very little on. Have one of those small packets from the auto parts store and still have some left. As far as the grease I put some on the edge of the boot and used a small screwdriver to spread it on the boot.
As of now I haven't fired it up but hopefully the system don't go crazy wondering WTF happened to its old *** parts. LOL. I don't plan on driving this truck much so hopefully I will never have to do this again.
Must have a Friday truck. Every coil pack on the passenger side wasn't even hand tight. I put a wrench on the first one and it was loose. The other three were also loose and didn't need the wrench either. I didn't remove the pigtail. There was enough wire to pull them off and to the side.
As far as the anti seize & dielectric grease. I used both. The anti seize packet actually has a spark plug on it and shows where to put it. Found that kinda funny. I put very little on. Have one of those small packets from the auto parts store and still have some left. As far as the grease I put some on the edge of the boot and used a small screwdriver to spread it on the boot.
As of now I haven't fired it up but hopefully the system don't go crazy wondering WTF happened to its old *** parts. LOL. I don't plan on driving this truck much so hopefully I will never have to do this again.
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