66 f100 361 stalling in traffic
#1
66 f100 361 stalling in traffic
hows it going guys!
so im a new owner of an old truck, lol
the guy i got it from had done alot, new paint, interior, wheels&tires, engine rebuild,ect.. was all done in backyard but he did decent work forsure.
one problem im having is the engine wanting to stall while im braking. which confuses me since the brakes have no vacuum? he said maybe they sucked something into filter when it ran out of gas, i will be taking a look tomorrow morning but my first guess was carb needs rebuild/adjustment
any ideas of things i should be checking into? vacuum leak? clogged air filter?
runs strong when im not slowing down, lol
thanks!
so im a new owner of an old truck, lol
the guy i got it from had done alot, new paint, interior, wheels&tires, engine rebuild,ect.. was all done in backyard but he did decent work forsure.
one problem im having is the engine wanting to stall while im braking. which confuses me since the brakes have no vacuum? he said maybe they sucked something into filter when it ran out of gas, i will be taking a look tomorrow morning but my first guess was carb needs rebuild/adjustment
any ideas of things i should be checking into? vacuum leak? clogged air filter?
runs strong when im not slowing down, lol
thanks!
#2
Welcome to FTE
I'm wondering if maybe it's ignition related? See if maybe, there is some kind of partial short to or interference with the coil or distributor, and the brake switch?
You should be able to illuminate the brake lights by shorting across the brake switch terminals. See if that affects ignition, at least at idle. Also could try (for test purposes only) disconnecting the brake switch wiring altogether and see if this stalling feature of your truck then goes away.
As far as carb rebuilding yes. Once every other year for sure.
And a friendly FTE public service announcement - inspect carefully the hood latch and safety catch for smooth and proper alignment, wear, or damage and proper positive release and engagement. The safety catch should snap quickly into the pocket to keep the hood from flying open if the latch fails. Be sure to check for this, to avoid losing hood out on the highway. Fairly common with these old trucks and gummed up lubricant, misaligned, etc.
I'm wondering if maybe it's ignition related? See if maybe, there is some kind of partial short to or interference with the coil or distributor, and the brake switch?
You should be able to illuminate the brake lights by shorting across the brake switch terminals. See if that affects ignition, at least at idle. Also could try (for test purposes only) disconnecting the brake switch wiring altogether and see if this stalling feature of your truck then goes away.
As far as carb rebuilding yes. Once every other year for sure.
And a friendly FTE public service announcement - inspect carefully the hood latch and safety catch for smooth and proper alignment, wear, or damage and proper positive release and engagement. The safety catch should snap quickly into the pocket to keep the hood from flying open if the latch fails. Be sure to check for this, to avoid losing hood out on the highway. Fairly common with these old trucks and gummed up lubricant, misaligned, etc.
#3
Are you sure your engine is a 361? Those aren't normally found in an F100. Your truck would have come from the factory as an FE 352 - 2V. If someone replaced it with another FE engine, besides the 352 the most likely candidates (but not all of them) would have been the 360 or 390. What kind of transmission do you have? If an automatic, there might be a carb mounted anti-stall solenoid (called a dashpot) that's not adjusted right or is malfunctioning. I'd look into the carb float level like Tedster kinda suggested.
#4
Are you sure your engine is a 361? Those aren't normally found in an F100. Your truck would have come from the factory as an FE 352 - 2V. If someone replaced it with another FE engine, besides the 352 the most likely candidates (but not all of them) would have been the 360 or 390. What kind of transmission do you have? If an automatic, there might be a carb mounted anti-stall solenoid (called a dashpot) that's not adjusted right or is malfunctioning. I'd look into the carb float level like Tedster kinda suggested.
#5
66 F100 361 stalling in traffic
hows it going guys!
so im a new owner of an old truck, lol
the guy i got it from had done alot, new paint, interior, wheels&tires, engine rebuild,ect.. was all done in backyard but he did decent work forsure.
one problem im having is the engine wanting to stall while im braking. which confuses me since the brakes have no vacuum? he said maybe they sucked something into filter when it ran out of gas, i will be taking a look tomorrow morning but my first guess was carb needs rebuild/adjustment
any ideas of things i should be checking into? vacuum leak? clogged air filter?
runs strong when im not slowing down, lol
thanks!
so im a new owner of an old truck, lol
the guy i got it from had done alot, new paint, interior, wheels&tires, engine rebuild,ect.. was all done in backyard but he did decent work forsure.
one problem im having is the engine wanting to stall while im braking. which confuses me since the brakes have no vacuum? he said maybe they sucked something into filter when it ran out of gas, i will be taking a look tomorrow morning but my first guess was carb needs rebuild/adjustment
any ideas of things i should be checking into? vacuum leak? clogged air filter?
runs strong when im not slowing down, lol
thanks!
The Edsel 361 FE engine was only installed in 1958.
#6
Welcome to FTE
I'm wondering if maybe it's ignition related? See if maybe, there is some kind of partial short to or interference with the coil or distributor, and the brake switch?
You should be able to illuminate the brake lights by shorting across the brake switch terminals. See if that affects ignition, at least at idle. Also could try (for test purposes only) disconnecting the brake switch wiring altogether and see if this stalling feature of your truck then goes away.
As far as carb rebuilding yes. Once every other year for sure.
And a friendly FTE public service announcement - inspect carefully the hood latch and safety catch for smooth and proper alignment, wear, or damage and proper positive release and engagement. The safety catch should snap quickly into the pocket to keep the hood from flying open if the latch fails. Be sure to check for this, to avoid losing hood out on the highway. Fairly common with these old trucks and gummed up lubricant, misaligned, etc.
I'm wondering if maybe it's ignition related? See if maybe, there is some kind of partial short to or interference with the coil or distributor, and the brake switch?
You should be able to illuminate the brake lights by shorting across the brake switch terminals. See if that affects ignition, at least at idle. Also could try (for test purposes only) disconnecting the brake switch wiring altogether and see if this stalling feature of your truck then goes away.
As far as carb rebuilding yes. Once every other year for sure.
And a friendly FTE public service announcement - inspect carefully the hood latch and safety catch for smooth and proper alignment, wear, or damage and proper positive release and engagement. The safety catch should snap quickly into the pocket to keep the hood from flying open if the latch fails. Be sure to check for this, to avoid losing hood out on the highway. Fairly common with these old trucks and gummed up lubricant, misaligned, etc.
My hood latch is probably the strongest part of truck haha
#7
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#8
Grab the casting numbers off the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds when you get a chance and post them here. If those parts can be ID'ed and are for one or the other (FE/FT) then you'll know as they don't interchange between the lines.
My money is on it being an FE.
.
#9
Grab the casting numbers off the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds when you get a chance and post them here. If those parts can be ID'ed and are for one or the other (FE/FT) then you'll know as they don't interchange between the lines.
My money is on it being an FE.
.
My money is on it being an FE.
.
5027
C5A9425b
#12
Your rocker covers are '65 - '66, the C5 casting number on your intake manifold indicates 1965, and the horizontal oil filter was standard on truck blocks whereas car engines had vertical oil filters. This doesn't guarantee anything, but it broadly hints that your engine could be the 352. Check for casting date codes (single number, letter, one or two place number) on the engine block and also the engineering number. There are four machined bosses, two on each side just below the deck surfaces. At least one of them should have the block casting number. That will add to the identity clues.
#13
#14
1965 Galaxie/LTD 352/390 2V & 1965 F100/350 352 2V intake manifold.
1958/64 FE engines have rounded valve covers without holes for smog valve/oil cap, there's an engine oil fill tube on the right (passenger) side.
These engines have a different bolt pattern on the block for the rubber insulators to bolt to than...
1965/76 FE engines have pent roof shaped valve covers with holes for oil cap/smog valve. 1965/66 valve covers are plain, 1967/76 have Powered by Ford embossed on them.
1958/64 FE engines have rounded valve covers without holes for smog valve/oil cap, there's an engine oil fill tube on the right (passenger) side.
These engines have a different bolt pattern on the block for the rubber insulators to bolt to than...
1965/76 FE engines have pent roof shaped valve covers with holes for oil cap/smog valve. 1965/66 valve covers are plain, 1967/76 have Powered by Ford embossed on them.
#15
Is it the braking that causes it, or something else like idling (while not giving it gas) or I wonder if it is the momentum of the stopping motion that's causing some problem like gas from an overfilled bowl splashing down into the intake,
Or vapor-lock from that metal fuel line running across the block getting too hot?
Or vapor-lock from that metal fuel line running across the block getting too hot?