She just stopped running
#1
09-29-2015, 09:06 AM
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#2
09-29-2015, 09:09 AM
#3
09-29-2015, 09:46 AM
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2005 6.0 266,000 miles
Had my alternator go out just outside of Cheyenne, WY. Battery light went on intermittently while driving from Houston to Portland. She also won't start while hot, let her sit for a few hours and she starts right up.
I'm waiting on my gauge coming UPS so I've got no readings to share. I'm thinking my ficm just quit? Damaged from my alternator issues. A local mechanic hooked it up, while running, to his Snap-On portable, and told me my ficm was going and to do that first. Then everything else is reading bad, IPR, EGR, and glow plugs. He didn't share any codes or numbers with me, I think he just wanted to sell me.
Had my alternator go out just outside of Cheyenne, WY. Battery light went on intermittently while driving from Houston to Portland. She also won't start while hot, let her sit for a few hours and she starts right up.
I'm waiting on my gauge coming UPS so I've got no readings to share. I'm thinking my ficm just quit? Damaged from my alternator issues. A local mechanic hooked it up, while running, to his Snap-On portable, and told me my ficm was going and to do that first. Then everything else is reading bad, IPR, EGR, and glow plugs. He didn't share any codes or numbers with me, I think he just wanted to sell me.
#4
09-29-2015, 10:05 AM
Unplug the ICP and see if it will start when hot. My bet is that you have a leak somewhere in the high pressure oil system, probably dummy plugs and stand pipe or the STC fitting. Cool oil is easier to build pressure with, once warm it takes more to build pressure from thin oil. Why it won't start warm/hot, you've got a leak.
The alternator is a big deal and so are batteries. It will eat an FICM due to low input voltage, make him give numbers. You need a battery to hold 12.6-12.8 volts and an alternator capable of outputting at least 13.2-13.6volts. If its outputting less, its suspect. Batteries need to be independent load tested. Replace them as required.
FICM needs at least 11.5volt input and output anything above 45v to the injectors. If its doing less than 45v output, it needs replaced.
Do the batteries, alternator and FICM if needed, I gave you numbers to go by. The leak is important, will cost some money to fix and some down time to air test the HPO system and then fix the issues.
oh, if the IPR is 85%, its fully open trying to build pressure (its the regulator), the ICP is telling what the pressure is. You need at least 500ICP to start the truck. Idle should be above 580ICP and IPR should be around 21%. If IPR is 24-26% or more, that would confirm you have a leak... these are at idle numbers.
The alternator is a big deal and so are batteries. It will eat an FICM due to low input voltage, make him give numbers. You need a battery to hold 12.6-12.8 volts and an alternator capable of outputting at least 13.2-13.6volts. If its outputting less, its suspect. Batteries need to be independent load tested. Replace them as required.
FICM needs at least 11.5volt input and output anything above 45v to the injectors. If its doing less than 45v output, it needs replaced.
Do the batteries, alternator and FICM if needed, I gave you numbers to go by. The leak is important, will cost some money to fix and some down time to air test the HPO system and then fix the issues.
oh, if the IPR is 85%, its fully open trying to build pressure (its the regulator), the ICP is telling what the pressure is. You need at least 500ICP to start the truck. Idle should be above 580ICP and IPR should be around 21%. If IPR is 24-26% or more, that would confirm you have a leak... these are at idle numbers.
#6
09-29-2015, 10:14 AM
Fleet Mechanic
Unplug the ICP and see if it will start when hot. My bet is that you have a leak somewhere in the high pressure oil system, probably dummy plugs and stand pipe or the STC fitting. Cool oil is easier to build pressure with, once warm it takes more to build pressure from thin oil. Why it won't start warm/hot, you've got a leak.
The alternator is a big deal and so are batteries. It will eat an FICM due to low input voltage, make him give numbers. You need a battery to hold 12.6-12.8 volts and an alternator capable of outputting at least 13.2-13.6volts. If its outputting less, its suspect. Batteries need to be independent load tested. Replace them as required.
FICM needs at least 11.5volt input and output anything above 45v to the injectors. If its doing less than 45v output, it needs replaced.
Do the batteries, alternator and FICM if needed, I gave you numbers to go by. The leak is important, will cost some money to fix and some down time to air test the HPO system and then fix the issues.
oh, if the IPR is 85%, its fully open trying to build pressure (its the regulator), the ICP is telling what the pressure is. You need at least 500ICP to start the truck. Idle should be above 580ICP and IPR should be around 21%. If IPR is 24-26% or more, that would confirm you have a leak... these are at idle numbers.
The alternator is a big deal and so are batteries. It will eat an FICM due to low input voltage, make him give numbers. You need a battery to hold 12.6-12.8 volts and an alternator capable of outputting at least 13.2-13.6volts. If its outputting less, its suspect. Batteries need to be independent load tested. Replace them as required.
FICM needs at least 11.5volt input and output anything above 45v to the injectors. If its doing less than 45v output, it needs replaced.
Do the batteries, alternator and FICM if needed, I gave you numbers to go by. The leak is important, will cost some money to fix and some down time to air test the HPO system and then fix the issues.
oh, if the IPR is 85%, its fully open trying to build pressure (its the regulator), the ICP is telling what the pressure is. You need at least 500ICP to start the truck. Idle should be above 580ICP and IPR should be around 21%. If IPR is 24-26% or more, that would confirm you have a leak... these are at idle numbers.
#7
09-29-2015, 10:34 AM
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#8
09-29-2015, 11:07 AM
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The way she died while driving, just completely shut down, makes me think the ficm just finally quit working? Even with my warm start issues, when she ran, she ran great, but I did notice a decline in performance and fuel mileage.
Thanks for your replies guys, I'm very grateful and I value all of your input.
Thanks for your replies guys, I'm very grateful and I value all of your input.
#9
09-29-2015, 11:12 AM
#10
09-29-2015, 01:42 PM
Fleet Mechanic
I had a very similar problem with a 2005 motor in my 03 truck. Just died going up a hill. Ended up being the IPR stuck. Again, To much that can cause it not to run, and too much $$$ to just throw parts at it.
Where are you located? Maybe someone with a scan tool can come help.
One thing to keep in mind the IPR% is commanded position, not actual position. It can show closed and be stuck open
Where are you located? Maybe someone with a scan tool can come help.
One thing to keep in mind the IPR% is commanded position, not actual position. It can show closed and be stuck open
#11
09-29-2015, 01:44 PM
Unplug the ICP and see if it will start when hot. My bet is that you have a leak somewhere in the high pressure oil system, probably dummy plugs and stand pipe or the STC fitting. Cool oil is easier to build pressure with, once warm it takes more to build pressure from thin oil. Why it won't start warm/hot, you've got a leak.
The alternator is a big deal and so are batteries. It will eat an FICM due to low input voltage, make him give numbers. You need a battery to hold 12.6-12.8 volts and an alternator capable of outputting at least 13.2-13.6volts. If its outputting less, its suspect. Batteries need to be independent load tested. Replace them as required.
FICM needs at least 11.5volt input and output anything above 45v to the injectors. If its doing less than 45v output, it needs replaced.
Do the batteries, alternator and FICM if needed, I gave you numbers to go by. The leak is important, will cost some money to fix and some down time to air test the HPO system and then fix the issues.
oh, if the IPR is 85%, its fully open trying to build pressure (its the regulator), the ICP is telling what the pressure is. You need at least 500ICP to start the truck. Idle should be above 580ICP and IPR should be around 21%. If IPR is 24-26% or more, that would confirm you have a leak... these are at idle numbers.
The alternator is a big deal and so are batteries. It will eat an FICM due to low input voltage, make him give numbers. You need a battery to hold 12.6-12.8 volts and an alternator capable of outputting at least 13.2-13.6volts. If its outputting less, its suspect. Batteries need to be independent load tested. Replace them as required.
FICM needs at least 11.5volt input and output anything above 45v to the injectors. If its doing less than 45v output, it needs replaced.
Do the batteries, alternator and FICM if needed, I gave you numbers to go by. The leak is important, will cost some money to fix and some down time to air test the HPO system and then fix the issues.
oh, if the IPR is 85%, its fully open trying to build pressure (its the regulator), the ICP is telling what the pressure is. You need at least 500ICP to start the truck. Idle should be above 580ICP and IPR should be around 21%. If IPR is 24-26% or more, that would confirm you have a leak... these are at idle numbers.
#12
09-29-2015, 01:58 PM
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I had a very similar problem with a 2005 motor in my 03 truck. Just died going up a hill. Ended up being the IPR stuck. Again, To much that can cause it not to run, and too much $$$ to just throw parts at it.
Where are you located? Maybe someone with a scan tool can come help.
One thing to keep in mind the IPR% is commanded position, not actual position. It can show closed and be stuck open
Where are you located? Maybe someone with a scan tool can come help.
One thing to keep in mind the IPR% is commanded position, not actual position. It can show closed and be stuck open
I've had a feeling my IPR is bad, I'm about to go try and start her up, hopefully I won't have to tow it. Think the IPR, if it's stuck, will unstick itself? I've noticed that when she won't start while warm, sometimes she will if I step on the fuel pedal lightly. That's what made me think IPR in the first place.
#14
09-29-2015, 03:05 PM
Fleet Mechanic
I'm in the Pacific Northwest, Hood River, Oregon. New in town, only person I know with a scanguage can't find it. I'm ordering one right now from Advance Auto Parts for $111.00 with code trt30.
I've had a feeling my IPR is bad, I'm about to go try and start her up, hopefully I won't have to tow it. Think the IPR, if it's stuck, will unstick itself? I've noticed that when she won't start while warm, sometimes she will if I step on the fuel pedal lightly. That's what made me think IPR in the first place.
I've had a feeling my IPR is bad, I'm about to go try and start her up, hopefully I won't have to tow it. Think the IPR, if it's stuck, will unstick itself? I've noticed that when she won't start while warm, sometimes she will if I step on the fuel pedal lightly. That's what made me think IPR in the first place.
#15
09-29-2015, 03:11 PM
Fleet Mechanic