I can't see what you have. Your schematic should show what wires go to it from a power source and a wire out to the load.


If you have power in but not out, something is wrong. Bad breaker or constantly tripped because a short.

 

I will figure it out before NASCAR tomorrow Thanks Brien

 

If I was looking at a schematic I could probably help more. I always troubleshoot from one end and work toward the other. Don't jump around and don't assume anything. Always confirm/verify with meter. Even new parts can be bad or incorrect.


Good luck. Let us know what you find.

 

Will do Checking wire load should be easy enough..it's the wiring that gets me! LOL

 

OK So I have checked every thing from the battery back through the solenoid, back to the starter button, through the circuit breaker assesmbly and the ignition switch, and all are getting the juice. I can crank with a hot wire from battery to solenoid but not through the starter button. I am stumped.

 

Is it the correct solenoid? I had a 6 volt solenoid replacement that did the same thing.


My stock circuit has a hot wire from circuit breaker to starter switch. Starter switch to solenoid small post. Small post on correct solenoid went through solenoids coil to ground.


So when start button is pushed current flows to solenoid and closes main contacts. This allows current from batt to starter.


My incorrect solenoid said 6v and had one small post. It had no continuity from small post to ground. It had continuity to one of the larger posts. I tried wiring it differently and all it did was rapid clicking. I could push the manual button it had and it would start.


Make sure you have the correct solenoid.

 

The way the solenoid was mounted my large post going to the starter had the continuity with the small post. I thought if I mount it upside down that post would now be connected to battery positive which is ground and work. It did not. It just chattered.


I'm going to post pics here shortly.

 

Here is original solenoid on left.




This solenoid has continuity here. 1.2 ohms.




No continuity to ground. (WRONG PIC INSERTED) Should have been on small post and was at first. Had trouble holding leads and taking pic and messed up.




Original is just the opposite. No continuity to post.




Continuity to ground. 1.6 ohms.

 

Here's the correct pic.

 

Isn't the starter button grounded to the dash?, through the way it's mounted. Might try wiggling it a bit to refresh the ground there.

 

My 52 starter switch has two wires. I was told it grounded to dash but it is correct as per wiring schematic.


Maybe someone with more experience with these old trucks knows which years had the single wire grounded starter buttons.


The differences would explain the different solenoids.

 

Update:

Here is what we found:

1.) Power wires at the solenoid were backwards
2.) Coil wires had reversed polarity
3.) Starter push button had a loose wire
4.) Ignition lock switch connection was shorting out
5.) Light switch, wrong part was supplied. Connected dash lights to tail light terminal (used old switch)
6.) Replace gauge cluster bulb
7.) Speedometer drive mechanism is missing from the transmission
8.) Battery hold down clamp fit poorly causing arcing of hot cable
9.) Start engine and run up to temperature. Engine has a slight miss. may need tune-up
10.) Should consider a master battery shut off switch
11.) Starter seams to have a dead spot on the armature. Recommend sending it out to have it rebuilt.


We have done everything listed above Thanks to all Brien

 

Oh my, that's quite the list.

 

Can't beat systemic trouble-shooting to avoid the allure of 'this part must be the problem. You've done good work.

 

I got lucky and found some really good help @ Enfield Restoration in Enfield CT. ++++++++++++