<p>EARLY 6.9 engines had a habit of cracking the block in the area of the block heater. but that issue was resolved by late 84.</p><p>and when a head gasket blows, it is usually between the cylinders or between the oil and coolant ports.</p><p>the oil leak is most likely a loose valve cover, or bad valve cover gasket.</p>

 

So what's the rpms on these trucks in 4th going down the high way at 65 and 75?

 

<p>with 3:55 gears, around 2500 maybe?</p><p>with 4:10 gears my 88 tops out at 80 mph/3300 rpm's</p>

 

how do you tell what the rear gears are? is it labeled on the rear end somewhere?

was 4:10 the only OEM option on the f250 then? or did they offer 3:55 as well?

 

<p>there may still be a tag on the rear axle cover bolts. or you can post the trans code on the warranty plate on the rear drivers door post</p>

 

so 70 really is not an issue for these trucks for 1 or 2 hours at a time

 

<p>not at all. i drove home from north carolina 12 hours straight at 75 mph, only stopping for fuel</p>

 

just went and looked at the truck again and was going to buy it and load the dual sport bike in the back and drive home, but it didn't start. all it did was click on the passenger side under the hood. im guessing the starter and injector pump relays were clicking. but the starter wouldn't crank the motor. he said it will click a few times then it would actually start to crank the motor. i guess today, sins the truck had been sitting over a week not running that the batteries got low due to some sort of power pull from something. it does have an aftermarket radio so maybe that could be draining the batters? hes going to let it sit on a charger and ill go look at it again tomorrow and hopefully it has less issues starting.

how hard is it to get the dash gauges out? or is it better to get aftermarket gauges for the oil gauge? im still unsure how ill go about fixing the fuel gauge yet, but hoping it does not require pulling the gauge cluster out. The Tach, im sure will just need a new sensor installed.

 

the seller is at $1500 right now, from his asking price of 2k. with unknown miles on the truck/and clutch, rolled on rustolium red paint job, the few bad gauges and the oil leak on what may be the valve cover or even worse, also a possible new radiator and the A/C compressor is not even installed and unknown if it even works either, is $700 to $1000 gonna be to much of a low ball offer you guys think? i really kinda feel like 1500 may be to much still. going to try and pick it up tonight so any input before then is greatly appreciated.

 

Impossible for us to say when we are hundreds/thousands of miles away without seeing the truck. Also, $1500 has a higher value to a broke 18 year old than to an adult earning good money. Gauge the situation, the worst he can say is no and you end up back at $1500 anyway, I guess it could **** him off and he ups his price or says leave and then you don't want to give him your money anyway.

 

i would say $1500 is too high for a 2 wheel drive truck that has an rustoleum roll on paint, bad oil leak, needs glow plug work, needs a radiator, and an AC compressor.
you are looking at minimum $700 for radiator, glow plugs, and working AC. then you have to add any other hidden issues.
i would pass and look for something in better shape.

 

didnt buy that red 86, truck never started. now the kid wants to have it towed and still not take less then $1500


another question:
is this normal for the old idi 4x4 trucks to look like this with the wheels up front? are the ball joints bad?

 

that is typical for the independent front axle after backing it up. it should straighten out when pulled forward.

the F350 with a solid front axle does not have that problem