Aw shucks
#1
Aw shucks
Well the 79 I was looking at got sold from underneath me. Seller and I shook on a price, I went back to get a loan for it. I said I have the cash, but being a business owner liquidity is always a good thing and she understood. That week a guy came along and offered her more and along she went.
I'm 30 but apparently the days of shaking hands are gone.
If anyone hears of someone selling an inline 6, feel free to pass it along.
Matt
I'm 30 but apparently the days of shaking hands are gone.
If anyone hears of someone selling an inline 6, feel free to pass it along.
Matt
#2
Yes the days of a hand shake meaning anything other than a old fashioned hello, are over. Chalk it up to a hard lesson learned, and next time try to truck shop with CASH in pocket.
I am sure MI has more on the Craigslist....happy hunting. Which town is the closest to you in the MI craigslist town list?
I am sure MI has more on the Craigslist....happy hunting. Which town is the closest to you in the MI craigslist town list?
#3
Well, sorry, without cash in hand, I would have sold it to the other person also. Half upfront to hold it is a possibility for me. Or, should have gotten back there alot quicker. I have had things for sale before and "held it" for someone only for them to never come back. You will find what you are looking for, but I would have the cash ready, can always take out a loan later if cash gets tight.
#4
#5
When you do find one, here is a bit of shopping advice.
New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed. BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY TAG) AND OR THE DOOR STRIKER/CERTIFICATE STICKER. THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS ATAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere. Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s). Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth.. any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?
Fluid Check:
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old? Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake? Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid. Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled. Note any newish parts. Any “its been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation:
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear if it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if elec choke works.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Is it still all working?
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull when he brakes? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Trans shift properly? Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)?
CAREFULLY do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel... does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil. Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ?
Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what might OR WILL need to be addressed as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!)
New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed. BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY TAG) AND OR THE DOOR STRIKER/CERTIFICATE STICKER. THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS ATAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere. Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s). Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth.. any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?
Fluid Check:
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old? Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake? Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid. Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled. Note any newish parts. Any “its been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation:
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear if it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if elec choke works.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Is it still all working?
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull when he brakes? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Trans shift properly? Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)?
CAREFULLY do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel... does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil. Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ?
Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what might OR WILL need to be addressed as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!)
#7
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#8
This goes both ways....A lot of a$$es out there don't come back with the money, and they waste your time. Some do come back, but I've learned to ask the person for some money before they leave to "supposedly" go to the bank, even if it's 20 bucks. Then you know for a fact they are coming back if they give you a couple bucks. First person with money gets the product. We all learn this at some point. There are too many flakes out in this world.
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