OK, so I think I'm pretty handy, but I've given up trying to figure out how to remove the headlight assembly on my crew cab dually. The headlight has a condensation problem and I want to take the assembly out, drain the headlight of water and then try to seal it.

What's the secret?

 

It's tricky, i had to take the battery out when i changed my yellow blinkers into clear ones. There are two square cut outs in the metal for u to stick a 10mm socket in there with a 4 inch extention. I also had to move the coolant overflow/washerfluid tank, i just unhooked it and w/o removing hoses, placed it aside. That will get ur corner lights out and you hsould be able to get the headlights out after that.

 

Having performed the aforementioned Headlightectomy I return to report the proper procedure. This is for the driver's side headlight.

Loosen Washer fluid/radiator overflow reservoir and set out of the way.

From the inside of the engine compartment remove two 11 mm screws from light assembly, using a 3" extension.

Remove two Phillips head sheet metal screws from top chrome trim piece.

Remove light assembly. Remove lights from assembly and set assembly aside.

Headlight is now held by the three headlight retaining/adjustment bolts. If you possibly can without stripping them out, unscrew these retaining bolts and remove headlight. If you cannot unscrew these bolts, try to remove them by rotating the plastic locking retaining clips from the headlight by lifting the two locking portions on the reverse of each clip and then rotating the clips with needle nose pliers 1/4 turn. If you can't do that, remove the bolts any way you can (vicegrips and about 1/2 hour each will work) and then go buy new retaining bolts for $6 each at your Ford dealer. This last procedure worked for me.

Then allow the ice and snow storm to hit while your pickup sits in the driveway with one headlight missing.

Reverse the above procedures when it warms back up and the ice and snow melts.

 

You forgot to mention that the 11mm nuts will be frozen on there really good, and you will in turn just unscrew the whole shaft from the turn signal light assembly, making your situation much worse, than better. The person who designed this system, along with the guy who decided that a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder should go INSIDE the transmission, should be strung up and tortured.

 

Along with the guy that decided to put the 302 pcv valve on the rh valve cover under the intake where you can't even see it instead of on the wide open left side.