1948 F-6 Engine question
#62
1. Your park brake is engaged. So, if the truck is in gear, that may be the reason it won't start.
2. Your park brake is missing a couple of parts. The left side adjusting bolt p/n 2616 and spring p/n 2640.
#63
Green Sales (513) 294-8385 has 8
Nobody is listing the bolt, but it is 5/16"-18 x 1 3/4"
#64
#65
Great, thanks. I'm making a parts list as I run across, or am helped, spotting missing items.
Well, I've found a small leak in my radiator (weird, dead center, backside), so I'm going to get that too it looks like.
As for the clutch, I took off the arm and thought I could move it myself, it has about 1/4 to 1/2 inch travel before it stops it looks like. And I've noticed where the arm attaches, that rod slides in and out a little in the clutch assembly? This leaves a gap between the clutch arm and the pivot ball. I'm assuming my clutch arm/fork is the correct length?
Also, some of my wiring is frayed so I wondering if I should just go ahead and re-wire. It looks pretty straight forward with the shop manual and supplemental guides.
And then I need to get to the brakes...
Well, I've found a small leak in my radiator (weird, dead center, backside), so I'm going to get that too it looks like.
As for the clutch, I took off the arm and thought I could move it myself, it has about 1/4 to 1/2 inch travel before it stops it looks like. And I've noticed where the arm attaches, that rod slides in and out a little in the clutch assembly? This leaves a gap between the clutch arm and the pivot ball. I'm assuming my clutch arm/fork is the correct length?
Also, some of my wiring is frayed so I wondering if I should just go ahead and re-wire. It looks pretty straight forward with the shop manual and supplemental guides.
And then I need to get to the brakes...
#66
Great, thanks. I'm making a parts list as I run across, or am helped, spotting missing items.
Well, I've found a small leak in my radiator (weird, dead center, backside), so I'm going to get that too it looks like.
As for the clutch, I took off the arm and thought I could move it myself, it has about 1/4 to 1/2 inch travel before it stops it looks like. And I've noticed where the arm attaches, that rod slides in and out a little in the clutch assembly? This leaves a gap between the clutch arm and the pivot ball. I'm assuming my clutch arm/fork is the correct length?
Also, some of my wiring is frayed so I wondering if I should just go ahead and re-wire. It looks pretty straight forward with the shop manual and supplemental guides.
And then I need to get to the brakes...
Well, I've found a small leak in my radiator (weird, dead center, backside), so I'm going to get that too it looks like.
As for the clutch, I took off the arm and thought I could move it myself, it has about 1/4 to 1/2 inch travel before it stops it looks like. And I've noticed where the arm attaches, that rod slides in and out a little in the clutch assembly? This leaves a gap between the clutch arm and the pivot ball. I'm assuming my clutch arm/fork is the correct length?
Also, some of my wiring is frayed so I wondering if I should just go ahead and re-wire. It looks pretty straight forward with the shop manual and supplemental guides.
And then I need to get to the brakes...
#67
Rewiring a stock truck is pretty simple, even without a new harness. I did it, and added turn signals, a right taillight, turn signals in the park lights, a head light relay and replaced the circuit breakers with a fuse panel. If you'd like to read about it, go to post #290 of my build thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...roject-15.html
1. just getting the wires and fuse block
2. Buy harness from someone like LMC or DC
3. or I found this on eBya, what do you think? Is it a wire gauge suited for 12v? And it doesn't seem to have battery and starter wires?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181846686295?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
#68
I thought about that there are three options:
1. just getting the wires and fuse block
2. Buy harness from someone like LMC or DC
3. or I found this on eBay, what do you think? Is it a wire gauge suited for 12v? And it doesn't seem to have battery and starter wires?
1948 1952 Ford Truck Wire Harness Fuse Block Upgrade Kit | eBay
1. just getting the wires and fuse block
2. Buy harness from someone like LMC or DC
3. or I found this on eBay, what do you think? Is it a wire gauge suited for 12v? And it doesn't seem to have battery and starter wires?
1948 1952 Ford Truck Wire Harness Fuse Block Upgrade Kit | eBay
But it has a relay for 12 volts. Did you convert your truck from 6 volts, or do you plan to? That wiring does not look like heavy enough gauge for a 6 volt system.
#69
It looks like a 14 circuit box with a headlight relay? It says it's 18 circuits, but I only count 14 fuses and slots. And that looks like the t/s flasher as well.
But it has a relay for 12 volts. Did you convert your truck from 6 volts, or do you plan to? That wiring does not look like heavy enough gauge for a 6 volt system.
But it has a relay for 12 volts. Did you convert your truck from 6 volts, or do you plan to? That wiring does not look like heavy enough gauge for a 6 volt system.
Did you mean heavy enough for 12V? Thanx.
I have an email into the seller, supposedly there are instructions showing an install
#70
I didn't convert the truck, I bought it converted. So it's 12V (please check out my electrical pics on another post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f6-1948-a.html and let me know if you see something not right).
Did you mean heavy enough for 12V? Thanx.
I have an email into the seller, supposedly there are instructions showing an install
Did you mean heavy enough for 12V? Thanx.
I have an email into the seller, supposedly there are instructions showing an install
It's good to talk with the seller to find out which circuits are provided in the kit. It looks like the wires are labelled, which would be a bonus if the labels extend along the entire wire.
And my recommendation for your harness replacement is to unwrap and trace ALL of your existing wires from their source to their destination, marking them with masking tape for reference and needed length.
For example, the black wire connected to ground with the screw at the bottom of your voltage regulator is likely the ground for your headlights. But releasing it from the wrap will allow you to trace it.
#71
#72
No, I did not mean heavy enough for 12 volt. The stock 6 volt wiring is heavier gauge than stock 12 volt wiring.
It's good to talk with the seller to find out which circuits are provided in the kit. It looks like the wires are labelled, which would be a bonus if the labels extend along the entire wire.
And my recommendation for your harness replacement is to unwrap and trace ALL of your existing wires from their source to their destination, marking them with masking tape for reference and needed length.
For example, the black wire connected to ground with the screw at the bottom of your voltage regulator is likely the ground for your headlights. But releasing it from the wrap will allow you to trace it.
It's good to talk with the seller to find out which circuits are provided in the kit. It looks like the wires are labelled, which would be a bonus if the labels extend along the entire wire.
And my recommendation for your harness replacement is to unwrap and trace ALL of your existing wires from their source to their destination, marking them with masking tape for reference and needed length.
For example, the black wire connected to ground with the screw at the bottom of your voltage regulator is likely the ground for your headlights. But releasing it from the wrap will allow you to trace it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15640774
#73
I thought about that there are three options:
1. just getting the wires and fuse block
2. Buy harness from someone like LMC or DC
3. or I found this on eBya, what do you think? Is it a wire gauge suited for 12v? And it doesn't seem to have battery and starter wires?
1948 1952 Ford Truck Wire Harness Fuse Block Upgrade Kit | eBay
1. just getting the wires and fuse block
2. Buy harness from someone like LMC or DC
3. or I found this on eBya, what do you think? Is it a wire gauge suited for 12v? And it doesn't seem to have battery and starter wires?
1948 1952 Ford Truck Wire Harness Fuse Block Upgrade Kit | eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-CIRCUIT-UNIVERSAL-WIRE-HARNESS-MUSCLE-CAR-HOT-ROD-STREET-ROD-RAT-ROD-NEW/321544837130?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Dc1e0c55c99174c36b88d0825d5b8f11a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D261824512951http://www.ebay.com/itm/EZ-Wiring-MINI-Wiring-Harness-21-Circuit-Street-Rod-/231642359043?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
#74
Looks like a lot of money for a chinese universal kit, google the manufacturers part# and you find this outfits sells it as the correct kit for dozens of other cars/trucks. When I redid my F5 I got an WZ-wire harness for less than that, and it included a lot more than that kit, plus ih had enough wire to reach all the way to the back of my 12' bed.. These are the same folks that sell the junk chinese ifs kits.
12 Circuit Universal Wire Harness Muscle Car Hot Rod Street Rod Rat Rod New | eBay
EZ Wiring Mini Wiring Harness 21 Circuit *street Rod* | eBay
12 Circuit Universal Wire Harness Muscle Car Hot Rod Street Rod Rat Rod New | eBay
EZ Wiring Mini Wiring Harness 21 Circuit *street Rod* | eBay
#75
I just happened to look at the ad from when you bought the truck, the seller said that the clutch fork needed fixed. That is inside, you will have to pull either the engine or the tranny to get to it.