After I stated in another thread that my truck is 12V, I thought I'd better ask. I'm a newbie with the truck and bought it as converted to 12v. I've been reading through the topics and saw a few things that I wanted to confirm.

1.) 12v requires the generator to be changed to a 12v alternator, or can it be another 12v generator? which is better? Mine is painted, I can't tell?
2.) The starter should be a 12v starter? Is mine? I can't tell.
3.) I've read the gauges will require reducers to 6v, I think that can be done for all at once. I saw the devices that do it per gauge in another posting. Which is better? I can't tell if mine reduced, but I believe it is.

My electrical appears over complicated since someone wired a trailer hitch plug. And I thought I saw a electric fuel pump.

I'm ordering some parts, and part of that might be some wire, or another harness. Some of my wire appear original and is frayed.

Help...

 

1. you can use a 12V generator or alternator
2. the original starter was 6V, but so long as you only crank it in short burst it will work fine from 12v.
3. Depending on how long ago the conversion was done it may have an older different looking reducer. My '50F5 had been converted back in the late 50's and had a reducer for the headlights that looked like this

 

That looks like the negative post on the battery with the cable going to the post on the starter relay. If that's the case, then your truck is wired for positive ground. Originally, it was 6 volt positive ground.

Do you have a VOM (volt/ohm meter)? If not, you need to get one before you start messing with your wires. Harbor Freight often gives them away with any purchase if you have a coupon. It's not a great meter, but it'll work for that function.

If there is no marking on your battery, you can check it with a VOM to see what voltage it is.

1. Yes, if your truck is wired for 12 volts, you will require a 12 volt generator of alternator to charge the battery.

2. The 6 volt starter will spin faster on 12 volts, but others on here have stated that it will work fine. Just don't keep it engaged for long period.

3. The stock gauges will require a reducer to run on 12 volts. Yes, you can get the one that works for all 3 gauges needing it (the ammeter doesn't need it).

I recommend before buying any electrical parts you correctly determine what you are working with, 6 or 12 volts.

EDIT: I see I was typing too slowly and Joe beat me to it.

 

Joe, I don't know why that battery has a red cap on the - post, but it is + to the solenoid.

 

I put the cap on the neg side just because I took neg off tonight. The battery is 12V. And tested between pos (+) and the frame is 12.41V. I picked the battery up at Walmart over the weekend, the one in the truck when I bought it was Rural King 24-60 12V. But was dead.
The negative terminal is connected to the body and the frame (I had it on the engine but ground was better (and the shop manual stated) on the frame).
The big question is that I can't tell if the starter and the generator is 6V, how do I test?
They look like originals, 6v? But I have nothing to compare to

Sorry for the confusion, I put the red cap on the (-) terminal when I pulled the (-) cable off tonight. I didn't want something to drain the battery...

 

What I see is 12vt batt neg ground. The generator looks typical Delco (oval tag some
GM product 1955 up) Strong bet is the starter is 6vt. I have a 1950 F6 converted
to 12 vt back in the 60's= same starter till this day no problem 12vts makes it work
less. You need a voltmeter connected to the Batt. terminal on the regulator to find out
what the output is, we like around 13-14 volts after starting then the regulator will
taper off to its sweet spot. Over the years I have found the fuel, oil and ampmeter
don't care, but the temp gauge usually has a problem. For neg gr. the ampmeter
wire must be reversed in the gauge loop. And I have no voltage reducer on my
gauges (in 50yrs gauges they aint blown up yet) If it don't charge, save the pain
and stick a one wire alternator in there easy Napa. sam

 

Thanx, it might be better to have an updated alternator anyway. So napa has an alternator that will fit. Do you know the specs, or better yet the part #? I can research some more if it's not handy.

 

Ok, I got a new harness today. Looking forward to rewiring over the weekend (if it doesn't get too hot ).
Question, on the frame under the gas tank and cab, appears to be a fuel pump (or filter), just attached to ground? It looks recently installed, it says AC Delco Spark Plug on the metal housing?
And I see a line going to the brake hydraulics?

 

You will need a different mounting for an alternator. I used one like this. Works perfect. Be sure to get the small diameter pulley.
Ford - Ford Pickup Truck Alternator Conversion Kit - 12 Volt Negative Ground - Flathead 6 Cylinder - Macs Auto Parts

 

Thanx for the alternator link. I'll give it a try. Any idea on the Fuel Pump and brake hydraulic wire lines?

 

Since there are steel fuel filters that look somewhat like in-line electric fuel pumps, I couldn't speculate without seeing a pic, but is it installed in a hydraulic brake line?
Also, on that alternator bracket, you will need to shave off that bulbous blob on the adjusting arm. All the kits have this issue for some reason.

 

good to know. I'll try to get some pics of the parts in question once I get off work. Thanx. I ordered the alternator (from your link). The pulley came with it, and appears to be the correct size.

 

The under side has what appears to be the brake hydraulics and the fuel filter. I see the brakes have power and ground, the fuel filter just ground. This isn't a fuel pump is it? Thank you.

 

You're saying "the brakes have power and ground" - are you referring to the stoplight switch? It's possible the fuel filter is grounded, but I doubt it. Sorry, but without a picture I can't say. I think you may have to try some hand-over-hand wire tracing to be absolutely sure.

 

sorry completely forgot to post pics. They're in the post.
I'm seeing that this truck has one side air brakes? I big compression chamber... And only one side on the rear axle the brake cylinder.