Changed the oil in the top of the engine.
#17
This topic comes up quite a bit over the time I have joined FTE (>2yrs). Is it possible some of these rigs have a clogged delivery to the HPOP reservoir? That could explain the reports of black thick oil and the difference in injector sound post flush. I have seen too many posts like this to blow it off as BS.
There are people that will swear up and down that the oil in the HPOP is different than in the pan. Yet EVERY single oil sample sent out comparing the two has always shown them to be exactly the same.
And if you listen carefully, a truck idling with old oil will sound slightly different with fresh new oil. This further enhances that placebo effect.
People tend to believe what they want to believe, not necessarily what is actually happening.
#18
This topic comes up quite a bit over the time I have joined FTE (>2yrs). Is it possible some of these rigs have a clogged delivery to the HPOP reservoir? That could explain the reports of black thick oil and the difference in injector sound post flush. I have seen too many posts like this to blow it off as BS.
I have taken samples from my HPOP reservoir and the oil does not looked trashed (change every 3K), which tells me my oil is getting circulated so I haven't bothered with the procedure.
Just my .02
I have taken samples from my HPOP reservoir and the oil does not looked trashed (change every 3K), which tells me my oil is getting circulated so I haven't bothered with the procedure.
Just my .02
It's internet BS.
#19
here is something the oil images does not show.. when the oil enters reservoir does the HPOP pull from the bottom of the reservoir so in effect all the oil is used to provide pressure to the injectors at a higher pressure, or does it draw from somewhere else.
I have not looked inside the reservoir with the components off a truck so not sure how the oil gets into the pump for injectors.
I have not looked inside the reservoir with the components off a truck so not sure how the oil gets into the pump for injectors.
#20
Here is a easy check. Next time you drain your oil, open the HPOP fill fitting and see if any oil is in there. If there is oil in there and you have been changing oil with out sucking this out, than you are leaving dirt oil in the motor that could easily been removed. Like I mentioned earlier, when I change oil in my VW I also suck the DIRTY oil out of the filter housing and oil cooler. Most people and none of the oil change shops will do this, but why not get all the dirt oil you can.
#22
Here is a easy check. Next time you drain your oil, open the HPOP fill fitting and see if any oil is in there. If there is oil in there and you have been changing oil with out sucking this out, than you are leaving dirt oil in the motor that could easily been removed. Like I mentioned earlier, when I change oil in my VW I also suck the DIRTY oil out of the filter housing and oil cooler. Most people and none of the oil change shops will do this, but why not get all the dirt oil you can.
Just stop with this nonsense.
#23
When Powerstroke help Bill first came on the scene he raised quite a stir. On the surface much of what he says sounds good. That's because he's a salesman and was selling his videos.
The more you watch his videos and the more you pay attention, you start to see some of the tricks he's using.
As for the top end oil thing, yes it's true every time you pull the drain plug and drain the pan you're not getting all the oil out of the engine. As mentioned, even if you suck the oil out of the HPOP reservoir, you're still not getting all the oil out of the engine.
Several forum users here, myself included, took used oil samples from the HPOP reservoir as well as from the oil pan and sent both samples in to labs like Blackstone for a used oil analysis so we could see the difference in this "top end oil" and the regular oil in the crankcase.
Every single sample came back from the labs with both top and bottom end oil samples reading the same.
Look how many cc's your injectors displace. Look at the RPM's of the motor. Do the math. Oil is moving through the reservoir at a good pace.
If you don't like math, unscrew the inspection plug on the top of the HPOP reservoir (preferably parked on a place you don't mind a little spill), and crank the motor. See how much oil comes out of that little hole just cranking the engine. Then come back and tell us how concerned you are with oil flow through the reservoir.
The more you watch his videos and the more you pay attention, you start to see some of the tricks he's using.
As for the top end oil thing, yes it's true every time you pull the drain plug and drain the pan you're not getting all the oil out of the engine. As mentioned, even if you suck the oil out of the HPOP reservoir, you're still not getting all the oil out of the engine.
Several forum users here, myself included, took used oil samples from the HPOP reservoir as well as from the oil pan and sent both samples in to labs like Blackstone for a used oil analysis so we could see the difference in this "top end oil" and the regular oil in the crankcase.
Every single sample came back from the labs with both top and bottom end oil samples reading the same.
Look how many cc's your injectors displace. Look at the RPM's of the motor. Do the math. Oil is moving through the reservoir at a good pace.
If you don't like math, unscrew the inspection plug on the top of the HPOP reservoir (preferably parked on a place you don't mind a little spill), and crank the motor. See how much oil comes out of that little hole just cranking the engine. Then come back and tell us how concerned you are with oil flow through the reservoir.
#24
OK, when I saw the video on powerstrokehelp I really thought I had found something. I could not understand how I had not heard of this before. I did the procedure and felt good about it. I posted what I had done in hope that it would help someone else.
I don't know as much about our motors as some of you do. That's what I'm here. Now that I have learned more about oil flow thanks to aawlberninf350 and the oil flow diagram he posted I understood that I had gotten caught up in something that could be done but did not need to be done.
Building the suction jar and two hours of my time were wasted. Sorry for wasting everybody else's time with this thread.
David
I don't know as much about our motors as some of you do. That's what I'm here. Now that I have learned more about oil flow thanks to aawlberninf350 and the oil flow diagram he posted I understood that I had gotten caught up in something that could be done but did not need to be done.
Building the suction jar and two hours of my time were wasted. Sorry for wasting everybody else's time with this thread.
David
#25
Nope, don't feel like you wasted anyone's time. If anyone that posted felt like they wasted their time by responding, then that's on them, not you.
It aint no big deal you brought this up. It comes up periodically and even though we're repeating the info when another thread like this pops up, it's more than ok.
Stewart
It aint no big deal you brought this up. It comes up periodically and even though we're repeating the info when another thread like this pops up, it's more than ok.
Stewart
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#26
You didn't waste your time if you feel good about what you did. Hell, when I first bought my truck 1.5 years ago I did the HPOP oil change too and am fine with it. I also took all 4 wheels off just to clean them. I wanted to be able to put them on my patio and soak them with Simple Green and get them as clean as possible. Do I feel bad about taking 2 hours to remove the wheels, clean them, then remount the wheels, not a chance...
Keep up the good work and it will pay off, even if you are going the extra mile.
Keep up the good work and it will pay off, even if you are going the extra mile.
#27
Hardly. Keep a hold of that jar. If you have to change your IPR you can suck out the reservoir. If you have to change injectors, you can suck out the cylinders. When it's time to flush the brake fluid, a vacuum jar is a great way to do it.
#29
Ok then.....what will you do about the ~2qts that are retained in the oil galley that is machined in the cylinder heads? Are you planning to remove the bleed screws (which the valve covers need to come of to access), of which there are 4, which will drain the head galleys?
Just stop with this nonsense.
Just stop with this nonsense.
#30
I just replaced hpop seals and removed resovoir too change filter inside. The filter has about 4 little grains of crap. Was not necessary to change filter but I did anyway. The resovoir has zero crud or crap in it. I change my oil every 3k miles. I don't know what the cause of crud getting inside the resovoir.