When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think it has a block heater, is that the big orange cord going into the block above the starter? I tried unplugging the gpcm because I read somewhere if its warm enuf outside, the truck should start. Its been 75-80 all week so I gave it a shot. If the glow plugs were bad, wouldnt the block heater get everything warm enuf to start? Can I take the ficm to ford for testing to see if its good? I had new gp harnesses installed when I had the hgs done about a year ago.
Yes with the key on its cycles for a few seconds then kicks out the starter like the motor is firing before tdc. With the solenoid wire it cranks just fine. I checked the gpcm, all fitting are on tight, pulled it and the pins are ok too. I cut a paper clip up to fit into the ficm connectors for testing, my dvm leads wont go into the small slots. heres what i got( Just the leads of the dvm together gave me .4 ohm)
I also pulled the alarm fuses just in case, no diff cranking w the key. I was testing the ficm voltage cranking before i had my scangauge setup and coolant shot out of the small tube right into the open test door of the old ficm.
Yes with the key on its cycles for a few seconds then kicks out the starter like the motor is firing before tdc. With the solenoid wire it cranks just fine. I checked the gpcm, all fitting are on tight, pulled it and the pins are ok too. I cut a paper clip up to fit into the ficm connectors for testing, my dvm leads wont go into the small slots. heres what i got( Just the leads of the dvm together gave me .4 ohm)
I also pulled the alarm fuses just in case, no diff cranking w the key. I was testing the ficm voltage cranking before i had my scangauge setup and coolant shot out of the small tube right into the open test door of the old ficm.
shem
Originally Posted by wetbiker
does ford have a way to test the ficm to see if its good?
No other than in the truck. Ed can they have a test bed for doing that. Not sure about Ron
but if you have access to a running truck then you can. But there is risk of making something go POOF.
You have 4 major computerized devices. The ECM/TCM (in one box)aka PCM The cluster and the FICM
there are others but you should be able to start with them out
Just an FYI on using a paper clip. Don't push then into the pin sockets it can stretch then out and cause other problems.
The best way to probe a contact assembly is to back probe then and not from the pin side. If you must go from the front
then just touch or better still get an old harness and use a pin that is meant for that connection to probe with.
Here are some handy things to add to your electrical kit. Even some home made ones. The home made ones can be a problem
when working with a live system and not just checking the resistance.
The DIY set
Kit from Ebay >>> Lisle 64900 17-Piece Back Probe and Alligator Clip Set
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-64900-17-Piece-Back-Probe-and-Alligator-Clip-Set-/281618166371?hash=item4191c03263
Lisle 64900 17-Piece Back Probe and Alligator Clip Set
Noe on the alarm. Removing the fuse won't do what you need. Your going to need to remove the starter interlock
device so that is not in the starter path. One way to verify (maybe) that it's cutting power would be to place a volt
meter on the solenoid wire going down to the starter and watch the voltage while you crank with the key. You may
see the voltage drop from 12ish to 0ish. But that is not going to prove it 100% if you don't happen to see it drop.
But if it does drop then you do have a yes. I would remove it to get that problem out of the picture all together and
that you know for sure. I had an alarm system in a truck I got used that was disabled. Every now and then it would
not start. Turned to be a flakey relay in the starter circuit. I removed it and the problems went away.
What could be going on is the relay contacts are over heating and not letting current pass to the starter solenoid after
a few seconds of power.
Have you disconnected both batteries and turn on the headlights too suck down any power that may be stored. Wait a half an hour. Turn off the headlights and reconnect the batteries.
Then try starting it. You have nothin to lose and I've seen crazier.
so pete came over to help me, the harness checks out fine but the x1 connector is not firing injectors 1,4,6, and 7. Any ideas?
Thanks
JOhn
So I ran over to John's place tonight with AE. After clearing codes and then trying to restart, the following codes came up
Tried running a buzz test and this is what came back:
To avoid questions that can be easily answered, yes the buzz test was attempted with the key on and the engine off.
#1, #4, #6, and #7 are all powered off of the FICM plug affectionately known as X1 or the back plug. I pulled the injector harness and verified continuity through all 16 wires.
It would seem that that half of the FICM is not getting power. Now this FICM is new but just to be safe, I brought a known good FICM with me to try and we got the same results.
Based on the diagram for the main FICM plug X3, there are two FICM main power wires. Does anybody know if those correspond to powering each "end" of the FICM and if so, which is which?
Not sure what you're asking but here's a diagram. Both main power wires join to one wire coming from the FICM relay.
Since you tried a buzz test with no success, check that there's power and ground to the FICM and PCM.
Some other things it could be is no CAN communication between ficm & pcm. This is why I asked in a previous post if the batteries have been disconnected yet for awhile then retry.
I suppose it's possible the pcm got fried too since the truck was cranking when the FICM was shorted out with coolant.
Do you have a spare PCM to try?
Thats awesome thank you! I checked and some of the power inputs to the ficm are not getting powered from the pcm. Im going to get a new pcm. Does anyone know the difference on the part number endings on the pcm? Mine ends with aug, I can get a brand new one off ebay for $150 but it ends in atg or I can geta used one from a boneyard for $350 that ends in avg. Are the numbers just different flashes?
The part # on my pcm is 4c3a-12a650-aug and its a dpu-252a series. Im thinking the dpu # is the case style and the other #s are the program its flashed with.
08-09-2015, 09:26 AM
