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Truck stalls out after running for a while

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  #31  
Old 07-21-2015, 12:20 PM
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Well gas is showing in the tank on the gauge but I never put fuel in that tank.
I will have to test the fuel pressure while running when I get the chance (the fuel pressure gauge I have had the end piece break after using it and I am not sure if I will have time before work to get anything done).
I am not sure how I am going to verify spark by color.


Timing has been verified twice now at 12* BTDC.
My t-chain is comp cams 3230 link belt timing chain.


I have been replacing parts because to me it seems like it is causing the issue but a lot of good it so far is doing besides that I am trying to get the truck to be 100% perfect for example after this is paint and body work.
Trav
 
  #32  
Old 07-21-2015, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rla2005
Since you have enough spark to shock you I would suggest getting a handle on the fuel pressure. I am not certain what effects you triggered by using the wrong rear tank/pump assembly. That one now has a high pressure pump in it that may overwhelm the Dual Function Fuel Reservoir if you ever try to use it.
24V can shock you under the right circumstances. I have even been lit up by a 12V car battery... rainy day, clothes wet, leaning over the metal core support... yeah wasn't thinking clearly lol.

Trav, getcha a new fuel pressure gauge and duct tape it to your windshield where you can see it while driving. Tie the hood down good and solid but not so hard that you pinch the fuel pressure test hose. Now drive it. As soon as it starts dying, watch the gauge. If you really wanna be smart about it then wire a test light up to the fuel pump power feed and watch that at the same time to see if the pump is cutting in and out. If so then you need to look elsewhere cause the problem ain't in the fuel system. If power supply is steady but fuel pressure takes a digger then you have fueling problems.

Now quit blindly changing parts like a tire store mechanic and actually go find the problem man! The money you spent replacing parts could have bought you a shiny new fuel pressure gauge!
 
  #33  
Old 07-21-2015, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
.
I am not sure how I am going to verify spark by color.
Pull a spark plug or use a spare, ground the electrode then crank the engine. Inspect the color of the spark while cranking. It should be a nice blue/purple.

To keep the engine from starting pull the Fuel Pump Relay or trigger the inertia switch.


Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
.Timing has been verified twice now at 12* BTDC.



Trav
SPOUT out?
 
  #34  
Old 07-21-2015, 12:42 PM
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Right.

You want to look for a nice WHITE/BLUE spark. Dim blue is okayish and will probably get the job done but anything that looks even remotely yellowish ain't gonna cut it under compression. But what's better is to go to Advance Auto or whatever y'all got there and ask for an adjustable spark gap tester. If the guy looks at you funny just send him back to the counter to go look up a wiper blade sharpener for a 2002 Mustang Cobra while you find where the spark testers are. You want one of these:

Adjustable High Energy Ignition Spark Tester Coil Tool | eBay

That will help you see if your spark has enough azz behind it.
 
  #35  
Old 07-21-2015, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dixie460
24V can shock you under the right circumstances. I have even been lit up by a 12V car battery... rainy day, clothes wet, leaning over the metal core support... yeah wasn't thinking clearly lol.

Trav, getcha a new fuel pressure gauge and duct tape it to your windshield where you can see it while driving. Tie the hood down good and solid but not so hard that you pinch the fuel pressure test hose. Now drive it. As soon as it starts dying, watch the gauge. If you really wanna be smart about it then wire a test light up to the fuel pump power feed and watch that at the same time to see if the pump is cutting in and out. If so then you need to look elsewhere cause the problem ain't in the fuel system. If power supply is steady but fuel pressure takes a digger then you have fueling problems.

Now quit blindly changing parts like a tire store mechanic and actually go find the problem man! The money you spent replacing parts could have bought you a shiny new fuel pressure gauge!
My fuel pressure tester is to short to reach out of the hood. I didn't hear the pump cutting in and out this time although you can't hear it while you are driving because the truck drones like crazy right now. I should be able to run it long enough until it acts up.

Originally Posted by rla2005
Pull a spark plug or use a spare, ground the electrode then crank the engine. Inspect the color of the spark while cranking. It should be a nice blue/purple.

To keep the engine from starting pull the Fuel Pump Relay or trigger the inertia switch.




SPOUT out?
Yes the spout is out. I have a few spare autolite 25 spark plugs I will test to see the color of the spark when I get the chance.
Originally Posted by dixie460
Right.

You want to look for a nice WHITE/BLUE spark. Dim blue is okayish and will probably get the job done but anything that looks even remotely yellowish ain't gonna cut it under compression. But what's better is to go to Advance Auto or whatever y'all got there and ask for an adjustable spark gap tester. If the guy looks at you funny just send him back to the counter to go look up a wiper blade sharpener for a 2002 Mustang Cobra while you find where the spark testers are. You want one of these:

Adjustable High Energy Ignition Spark Tester Coil Tool | eBay

That will help you see if your spark has enough azz behind it.
If I can't see the spark that well I will have to pick one of those up.
Trav
 
  #36  
Old 07-22-2015, 08:24 PM
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I have the same truck Trav and my fuel pressure gauge was to short to use to drive , idle I had 30 to 32 psi hence I reved it up and pressure dropped to 20 ish and load up ...I pulled duel tank valve and filter was missing and did the blow thur test from 4 ports and 2 worked but half way other 2 didn't work no matter how I worked valves replaced it and it ran good fuel pressure picked up from 32 to 42 at 3000 rpm and above....Notice before I pulled valve 30 and dropped to new valve 32 + the valve works on fuel pressure from which tank you switch it too..Now try this unhook main inline pump see if you hear tank pump come on also test red wire is hot front tank brown white stripe is rear yellows are fuel gauges ..and you can reach front tank out tubes and unhook them get a friend to turn switch on not run and see it intank pump pushes gas out it will only pump 3 to 5 secs
 
  #37  
Old 07-27-2015, 04:48 PM
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At first spark came out yellowish orange and was dancing all over the place the next time I tried it (tried it twice and let it spark two to four time) it came out purpleish blue like it should.


I unplugged the rear tank also. I started it up after that and no power and it was popping as I revved it up. After testing spark color it started up and popped once and it had a slight loss of power but not to bad. I have not checked fuel pressure while running yet. What do you guys think so far it could be?
Trav
 
  #38  
Old 07-27-2015, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Redneckfordf2502002
At first spark came out yellowish orange and was dancing all over the place the next time I tried it (tried it twice and let it spark two to four time) it came out purpleish blue like it should.


I unplugged the rear tank also. I started it up after that and no power and it was popping as I revved it up. After testing spark color it started up and popped once and it had a slight loss of power but not to bad. I have not checked fuel pressure while running yet. What do you guys think so far it could be?
Trav
Try this un plug wires on inline main pump so its off always and turn key on and see if front tank pump is coming on if it is ..then reach between frame and bed and remove clips for fuel lines and have someone turn key on for a couple secs and off see if pump is pumping anything if it is then u have blockage from duel tank valve to main pump ...if its not pumping gas out strainer on sending unit could be stopped up or tubes
 
  #39  
Old 07-27-2015, 07:37 PM
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Also the red wire at front tank should be hot 12 volts when key is on and tank switch is front ...rear tank is brown and white hot 12 v when switch is in rear postion if no power the dash switch is bad
 
  #40  
Old 07-27-2015, 07:42 PM
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each tank runs though duel tank valve so if its gummed up it will not pump though it..this is why I saided unplug lines at tanks and see or feel if fuel is coming out ,once u know I got fuel coming from tank then step ahead to next part in system
 
  #41  
Old 07-28-2015, 12:44 PM
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I have already checked that the pumps are coming on and they are you can hear them clear as day. It is getting a good fuel spray all the way up to the fuel rail.




I talked to Wells and Summit and they both said that they would replace the TFI after hearing the symptoms even though it tested good so Friday I am going to get one. The guy at summit also said to check my grounds so I will be doing that Thursday when I am off if the weather is nice for me to go out.
I may also replace the cap and rotor even though the one on it is newer just to be sure plus I want an MSD cap and rotor.
Trav
 
  #42  
Old 08-09-2015, 10:12 AM
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Ended up being the fuel pump was bad since the lines and fuel selector valve was clogged. New pump and selector valve (fixed one), deleted the rear tank completely, and cleaned the lines.
Trav
 
  #43  
Old 08-09-2015, 03:39 PM
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Glad to see you got it figured out and running again.
 
  #44  
Old 08-09-2015, 06:02 PM
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Good to hear! I picked up an 89 w/ a 302 and was recently having similar issues. I learned how to check for codes on these truck and replaced the MAP sensor and its been great since!
 
  #45  
Old 08-10-2015, 06:54 PM
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Ya it is to bad I can't start driving it to and from work until I fix the steering and brakes though.
Trav
 
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