The cover housing was sloppy and not pressing tightly on the bracket, The ohms reading was intermittent or not at all as you would jiggle the float moving it up and down

I think I got her fixed, We shale see. If not, I tried. Not spending the big bucks to fix a gauge. We will just continue to use the scan gauge as calculate fuel volume

Found that the little steal pin that slides on the plate to ground was loose causing the intermittent readings. It looked like a pin that was pressed into the copper material. . Cleaned and soldiered it into place .. Took the card out and scuffed and cleaned . . Put it back together. . Took wire. and twisted tight to tighten up the housing to the mount. . Was wobbling all over. Nice and tight. Clean . tested by jiggling float up and down left right.. Constant and true. Through the whole range no breaks in connection like the way it was acting before. 15 empty 163 full (ohms). Preformed test at least 5 times trying to get it to fail.

Check those pins.
Also bent the arm to slide lower on the resistor just a touch.

I figured I would give it a shot. If it works great, If it don't, We tried.

And of course pictures

 

Nice, keep us posted I am willing to do the same.

 

I did the same for a friend. It worked for about 6 months. Then it was back to what it was doing. LSS: We just replaced the unit next time. Hope you have better luck!

 

Worth a shot. Had it out for a busted strainer/umbrella. Figured I would check into it. Can't believe that pin didn't have contact with the copper tang . You soldered your pin ? It is back in and working fine. Hasn't worked in a long time. Kinda weird seeing that gauge working again .

 

This is why i have been telling him to ditch the inline fuel filter screen type. Use a pre filter, Napa. The screen in the fuel pump is almost as fine as the mixing chamber screen. But it was not the cause of his fuel pump failure though. But you can see the debri that collected and some fell off while i was taking the picture.

 

That may just be where he's been getting fuel. Maybe Is this a rear tank or center? I know the rear (or Aft Units) had an issue with the lining.

When I pulled mine (Center) to replace the pickup foot at 190,000 miles (it started running out of fuel at 1/4 tank) it looked pristine, everywhere. I had purchased the entire unit.

Even the mixing chamber screens were like new. I didn't even do the Hutch Mod as I have no cackle, Just Harpooned it, replaced the foot, and cleaned the sending unit. I put the new replacement unit on the shelf for when I need it and ordered a foot from Clay for it.

I was surprised as I clean my fuel bowl annually and almost always vacuum some amount of minute debris. Possibly fuel line, pump debris from age?

I can only speak for the last 160,000 miles of the truck as I got it third hand with 30,000 miles but had never dropped the tank until a couple years ago.

 

Center tank. Don't have rear .

That pump had 187,000 miles when it failed . He ran a glas type screen and we changed the screen every year when we change oil .

Removed his tank , busted umbrella / strainer . Fixed without umbrella
Attempt to with his fuel gauge sender. (Working great)
New fuel line
New spin on napa prefilter
New fuel filter . Engine bay
Waiting for new fuel pump (ups tonight)
Truck will be rolling out of garage tonight with a nice stream of fuel.

 

Update:.
Sending Unit is working Great.
New fuel pump is working Great.
New prefilter from napa is working great.

Sorry, Meant to edit it so it didn't bump to the top.

 

Reps sent! Very cool Danskool! One thing I could add (especially with respect to gasoline fuel tanks) is that only a special type of heat shrink tubing is rated for immersion in fuel. So even though it doesn't really apply to your diesel situation, it applied to my Bronco where I replaced the intank fuel pump with a Bosch OEM fuel pump but just re-used the existing sending unit. This may save someone from putting it all back together and then waking up that night saying "Holy Crap" I wonder if that H.F. heat shrink will hold up immersed in fuel? (like I did!) I bought it in 3/16", 1/4" and 3/8" and redid my fuel pump replacement a week later. May want to keep it in mind for your next project:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-Raychem-DR-25-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Any-Length-DR25-Motorsport-Motec-Tuner-/321278486835?hash=item4acdb0a933&vxp=mtr
BTW, everybody on the Full Size Bronco forum here at FTE also told me just to buy the $300-plus OEM pump and sending unit and not to repair it. But the less than $100 Bosch fuel pump has been working fine since this last March and as installed I don't know why it won't last another 20 years. Good for you Buddy!