I recently inherited a 1964 f100 from my uncle. He had used it to drive to and from work for years, he became sick and the car sat for 1-2 years. It is now running again...Let me preface my questions with this...I am not a mechanic by any sreach of the imagination. I can do simple things, but nothing crazy.

Info on the truck. It's got the 262 in it, with 3 on the tree. Here is the vin.
F10BH450022
WB 114
Color M
Body 281
Trans A
Axel 12

Truck has some surface rust on the body, nothing major, no holes anywhere and the frame is clean. Minor gaps on the passenger side panels. The bed has the worst rust, but again no holes.

It is my intention to fix any mechanical problems to make the truck a reliable driver, but not a daily driver. Just want to be able to enjoy it around town on the weekends. And not worry about breaking down, or not being able to get out of a gear while driving...which happened yesterday, and sucked.

1) Is there any reason to take the panels off the truck to do the painting and body work if there is indeed no damage to the frame?

2) I've been looking at this
Indy Manual Shifter, Indy Pick-Up Truck - HurstShifters
shifter to take it off the column and onto the floor. Would installing this and redoing the linkage fix the problem with the gears? They don't grind, it's just real finicky.

3) I like the 2 tone paint jobs with the white in the middle, another color on the bottom of the moldings and the roof. Would doing this be a no no??? Considering it was originally all white? Or does that not matter if I'm not trying to make a show car, which I am not...

Feel free to give me any tips of advice and ideas. As my questions show, this is my first restoration, and really my first foray into anything like this, I plan to have a shop do the body work, paint, sandblast or whatever is needed. I want to do all the mechanical work I can.

F100 - Album on Imgur

 

I'm guessing YOUR going to do the work yourself. Keep in mind, it's only nuts and bolts.
1) as you said not a show truck, leave the panels on your first rodeo. Just try to make a seamless color change as possible. Paint and body is easy, frustrating at times, but easy.

2) that shifter you are looking at will hit the seat in first gear and damn near to the dash in reverse. Leave it on the tree, it's cooler IMO.

3) The sky is the limit, make it what you want it to be.

If you stare at it long enough and day dream and dream about it, you should be able to picture it in your minds eye. Now you've seen the final product. Just make it there.

 

Dan the linkage is probably worn mine will lock up at times so I shift from first up almost to reverse and then go to second/third. I adjusted the shift tube up (it had slipped down and made bearing at the top loose) and it locks less now. I have new shift bushings but haven't installed them yet. Nice truck should paint up as driver easy.

 

Welcome to FTE. The truck appears to be in good condition therefore I would focus on making sure it's mechanically sound; brakes, electrical, suspension, etc. while deciding what to do about the cosmetics.

Agree, I would try and recondition and column shift; linkage bushings, shift tube, upper/lower column bearings. While at it suggest replace horn components.

With regards to paining; since interested in reconditioning rather than restoring I would only remove the sheet metal necessary to gain access for making repairs, body work, etc.

These trucks are about as basic as it gets, an occasional tune-up, and general maintenance; carburetor/fuel system, electrical system, and engine tune up the truck should remain on the road. Some fuel pumps have an internal fuel filter and some do not; regardless, suggest either add an inline, or cartridge filter for added protection.

Anyhow, had an urge to chime in and welcome you to the forum; considerable amount of knowledge and helpful members. Again, welcome and looking forward to your input!!

 

Yes rebuild the column shift. It's not that hard and
the parts are out there. It gives a Cool factor. Most
kids today would not know how to shift it.

 

Welcome to FTE

F10 = F100 2WD

B = 262 1V I-6.

H = Lorain OH Assembly Plant.

450022 = 1964 .. assembled September 1963.

114" Wheelbase.

M = Wimbledon White.

F100 2WD .. 5,000 lbs. GVWR

281: 2 = Medium Blue Crush Vinyl & Medium Blue Rib Vinyl / 81 = 81A Standard Cab.

A = Ford type 3.03 3 Speed Manual all Syncromesh Transmission.

12 = Ford 9" Rear Axle / 3.89-1 / 3,300 lbs. Rear Axle Capacity.

5,000 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

132 net HP @ 3,600 RPM

36 = Louisville KY Ford District Sales Office, where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Located at the bottom of the steering column underneath the hood, are the two manual control selector levers that the shift rods from the trans attach to.

In each lever is a rubber bushing and insulator. The bushings age crack/disintegrate, the shift lever binds up between 1st and 2nd gear.

C3TZ-7343-A .. Bushing & Insulator Kit (kit does both levers) / 1963/64 F100/250 2WD / Obsolete

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has 3 = 606-787-5293.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 11 = 800-543-4959.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 197 = 800-476-9653.

 

Thank you everyone for your responses. I'll get to work on the linkage. My uncle had already bought a complete wiring kit, I guess I might as well get that in before I do anything to the body. Have any of y'all done that or have an idea on the process to do so? Will I be removing panels? Or can I fish it all through?

And here is a photo of the VIN plate
http://imgur.com/37vX3up

 

Missing codes edited into post #6.

No VIN 'plate' (or VIN 'tag') on trucks until 1980.

1980 thru today: Located on the left corner of the dash, visible thru the windshield, only has the VIN stamped on it.

 

You should be able to fish the wiring through, no disassembly of the body required. You'll need to pull the dash assembly out that's relatively simple.

~Steve

 

just take your time with the wiring and follow the directions. I just did mine, and like you, this is my first shot at it.

and welcome to this great site.

 

Thanks for the response, how many hours +/- did it take you?

 

As noted in previous comment, these trucks are as basic as it gets, fairly direct, I was going to recommend purchasing the wiring diagram from Jim Osborn Reproductions, runs around $7, but I am not sure it would apply to after market harnessis. There is a 'how to' article in Classic Truck magazine on installing these wiring kits but appears they have since been bought out by Hot rod magazine. Posting a link on series of articles on topic may find, or may not, helpful??

Wiring Search Results - Hot Rod Network

 

It took me about 8-10 hours, all told, to do my 62.

~Steve

 

I'll tell you what I would do to that truck.
I would go over the brakes.
I would go over the wiring, fix or replace what needs to be.
Give it tune up .....make sure the tank is good.
Make sure the suspension/steering is in good shape.
Make sure the tires are good.
Give it good wash......rubbing compound....buff
Drive the fire out of it as is.

 

X2 on this, I wasn't sure which way I was going to go with Shrek, my 66, so I pulled him in the garage, pulled tires, new brakes, wheel cylinders, hold down kits, new M/C, turned drums, new bearings, tuned him up and started driving him. I actually bought another 66 for the stainless grill for Shrek, but just couldn't bring myself to change him, I like him as he is, patina and all, and I get many compliments every time I drive him,,, make it safe, make it reliable, the cool part just comes with driving it!!
Before,,,


And after,,,