Retrieved my rebuilt 240, with what I think is a 300 crank, yesterday.
Now is time to start putting back together. My gasket kit is a feltpro (sp?) one. So seems to be all cork. Would I be better off with rubber for the oil pan? The new oil pump is a Melton (sp?). Also thought about putting one of those extenders with valve to replace oil drain. Would like for my oil changes to not coat the crossmember.
Also still have to paint oil pan and timing gear cover. Not necessarily a high temperature requirement there, is it.
Any tips for me at this stage of the trucks resurrection would be welcomed.

 

personal favorite for the valve cover..http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1639

Oil pan...http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...601r/overview/

 

I have used thick rubber valve cover and pushrod cover gaskets from NAPA before. They seemed pretty good quality as well.
Have not looked at the intake/exhaust manifolds gasket shipped with my kit. Read somewhere Ford shipped these trucks with no gasket there. Won't be trying that. Just interesting.

 

Many of the rebuilt engine come-backs to auto machine shops involve oil leaks due to gasket material that continues compressing after the part has been torqued down. Cork is even worse for this. This is why a lot of shops favor use of silicone sealants where possible (even though silicone seal is miserable stuff to try to remove completely if you ever have to replace a part).

 

You have used that gasket with the older models?
The specs on the oil pan gasket shows it for 1988-96. Not sure if the oil pan changed.

 

It did, but the newer style oil pan gasket is vastly superior.
You have to modify your current oil pan to use it though.

Just use a grinder and grind off all of the raised ridges around the bolt holes down to smooth and flat and you're good to go. It's definitely worth it.

 

So the objective is to simply get a smooth surface for the gasket on the oil pan. Could one accomplish the same with a mallet. Not sure how tough it is.

 

Hrmm... I wouldn't think you'd want to use a mallet. If anything, the mating surface wouldn't be flat anymore, which would be your biggest concern. It's also pretty hard steel.
You might be able to, I've never tried it. But I can see reasons why you wouldn't want to.

 

x2 on the above mod..it works..great gasket

re: the particular 1639 vc gasket..since it's rubberizd cork it can be torqued carefully and reused after gluing it to the clean valve cover side should you want re-check your valves.

 

See what you mean. Bad idea on the mallet approach. Used a high powered dremel device and ground them down pretty smooth. Then used a brass wire wheel to clean up the surface.
The NAPA part for the felpro set was os 34601 r. Permadry. Shows to be for a 4.9l 1988-97.
Institutions say no adhesive should be used with it.

 

Just got started putting the engine back together. Right off the bat, I am missing the oil pump screen assembly and the mounting bolts for the oil pump. Are all oil pump screen assemblies specified for my engine the same. Napa has about 6 different variations and it appears the correct one would be a Melling 74s or NAPA SEP 22412124.
Also, is it likely I am missing the oil pump intermediate shaft as well. Did not see any shaft, unless it is in the pump.
Also, when it comes to mounting the timing gear cover, then harmonic balancer is there any type of seal around that shaft?
I am going to definitely have to find an illustration of all of the parts in my gasket kit and where they go. Some are obvious. Some items not so much.
I walked away from the engine this evening kind of going "mmmm, this is going to be challenging."

 

figured out my oil pump bolts and screen.
next challenge is two of my water pump bolts are messed up. going up one size did not work. is a helicoil a good option for this repair?

 

In addition to figuring out my water pump mounting bolt holes, one of my engine mounts does not line up on all three holes. You can line up the bottom two, but not the top. It was like that before, but I thought just a bolt was missing.
Also, trying to figure out which way the seal that goes behind the harmonic balancer should face - metal face towards the balancer or metal face facing the engine. Any tricks on installing it would be appreciated. Hope to get that portion of the engine reassembled this weekend.




can't tell from this picture that top/center bolt does not line up





went ahead and fitted the water pump even though I will need to pull to it again to helicoil two mounting bolt holes





engine does look nicer being clean. Mounted my oil filter adapter, valve cover, timing cover.





which side does the metal part of this seal go - towards the harmonic balancer or towards the engine.

 

The mount looks like a non-OEM part of inferior quality. Elongate the holes to fit.
The seal is to be as shown in the pic with the metal jacket outward facing the damper.

 

Thanks FF. Might look around and see if I can find another engine mount for the driver's side.
Any real tricks to installing the seal?
And in visiting with my Harley mechanic, he suggested that I use timeserts to repair my water pump mounting bolt holes instead of helicoil.