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In the morning when the truck is cranked a little before 7am to go to work, it starts like a champ. 10 hours later at 5pm it will usually start relatively easily but sometimes requires a little throttle to do so. However, now that summer is setting in if the truck is driven home and parked (engine off of course) for an hour or so while I for instance, get my son ready to go to soccer practice, it absolutely refuses to start. New fuel injection pump last November, new fuel filter last month, problem existed before new filter but not before new pump, however did not show up until a few months after the pump was installed, professionally by the way. The only difference I can think of is the outside temperature, but I can't imagine that after sitting for an hour the pump is hotter than after having driven it for an hour, so what in the world could be causing this?
On a side note, there is a plug not connected to anything near the pump that leads back to the filter head. There is another plug just like it connected to the pump, but I see no where else to plug anything in, so if anyone has insight on the function of these plugs or their destination I suppose I must be overlooking I would be eternally grateful.
OK first things first. Where did you get your "new pump"? And is it actually new or is it rebuilt?
Do a search for "heat soak". That sounds to me like what's happening.
How fast is your starter spinning?
Pics of said plug/plugs would be helpful if possible.
The pump is factory new and was installed by a truck repair shop. I'm not sure how to describe the speed of the starter but it sounds like it always has, doesn't seem to be malfunctioning as far as I can tell. I will post a picture when I get home and in the meantime I'll research "heat soak," thanks for the tip.
As for the CONNECTOR on the filter head, it would have nothing to do with starting. The only electrical items on the filter head are the fuel filter sensor (if so equipped) and the fuel heater.
I had some serious difficulties getting my pictures to upload for some reason, but here they are finally. Also, just for good measure I did a fresh oil and filter change, new air filter, and topped off the coolant. I figure if she has everything she needs to cool herself properly then I can at least rule them out as contributing factors. Take a look at the pump and plugs and tell me what you think.
So the truck has an automatic transmission? I see a harness connected to the TPS, which would only be in play on automatic-equipped trucks. That looks proper.
Connector closer to the firewall is the cold advance solenoid. Forward of it is the fuel shutoff solenoid. Hard to tell from the pics, but it almost looks like those two connectors are reversed. Push back the sheathing and report back with the color of insulation of the wire(s) on each connector.
For some reason, this pump doesn't have a cold idle solenoid. It would be over by where the throttle cable attaches. Most likely that loose connector in the foreground of the first pic is the wire to it.
And that return spring is, er, well, "crimson collar".
The only one of these that determines whether the engine runs is the FSS. If indeed the FSS and cold advance connectors are switched, what you'd _expect_ is that it would run until the engine reaches a certain temperature (122F or something?), then the switch/sensor in the front of the passenger-side cylinder head would open, there'd be no power to that wire, the FSS would de-energize and the engine would stall.
So the truck has an automatic transmission? I see a harness connected to the TPS, which would only be in play on automatic-equipped trucks. That looks proper.
Connector closer to the firewall is the cold advance solenoid. Forward of it is the fuel shutoff solenoid. Hard to tell from the pics, but it almost looks like those two connectors are reversed. Push back the sheathing and report back with the color of insulation of the wire(s) on each connector.
For some reason, this pump doesn't have a cold idle solenoid. It would be over by where the throttle cable attaches. Most likely that loose connector in the foreground of the first pic is the wire to it.
And that return spring is, er, well, "crimson collar".
The only one of these that determines whether the engine runs is the FSS. If indeed the FSS and cold advance connectors are switched, what you'd _expect_ is that it would run until the engine reaches a certain temperature (122F or something?), then the switch/sensor in the front of the passenger-side cylinder head would open, there'd be no power to that wire, the FSS would de-energize and the engine would stall.
Yes, automatic transmission. Thanks for clarifying the function of those wires. And yes, that return spring is embarrassing as hell. I didn't do that, the previous owner did. I need to find the part number and get a new one before that red neck engineered p.o.s. fails.
I bet you're right about that plug being for the cold idle solenoid. I didn't even think of that. Would possibly explain it running a little rough after starting up from cold though. I wonder if there is an open port for me to add one, or if I need to.
As far as the FSS, something as simple as crossed wires would make me very happy. I'll let you know the colors of the wires as soon as I can get out to the truck again. Funny thing is, I've gotten the engine plenty hot before, towed a 16,000 pound fifth wheel over the mountains for 6 hours not too long ago, but it's never stalled on me. Does that alter your opinion at all?
The wire color currently hooked up to the cold advance solenoid is red/white, the fuel shutoff solenoid is red/green, and the loose plug, presumably the cold idle solenoid, is two black wires.
Heat soak is easy enough to test for: Wait until it won't start when it's hot and pour a bottle of cool water over the IP slowly. Just need a quart or so. Aim for the rear of the IP, where the lines come out.
If it starts up quickly after doing that, it's heat soak and your IP is bad.
Heat soak is easy enough to test for: Wait until it won't start when it's hot and pour a bottle of cool water over the IP slowly. Just need a quart or so. Aim for the rear of the IP, where the lines come out.
If it starts up quickly after doing that, it's heat soak and your IP is bad.
If that's the case, what would would make a 6 month old injector pump go bad?
If the cold advance solenoid and the FSS have the wires swapped, then once the truck warms up, instead of the cold advance turning off, the FSS would shut off. Which would mean the engine would stop, so its not likely those wires are swapped.
If that's the case, what would would make a 6 month old injector pump go bad?
They cheaped out on the rebuild.
There is a tight tolerance between the rotor in the center of the IP and the head which surrounds it and provides the ports for the fuel to go to each cyl. If these wear too much, fuel simply leaks between them instead of going to the injector.
The problem is that a new head is a $400 part. A rebuild shop makes /no/ money selling a rebuilt pump for $500-600 if they have to spend $500 on parts, so someone probably just slapped it together and hoped for the best.
06-10-2015, 05:31 PM
