Proportioning valve??
#1
Proportioning valve??
I am going to ask a question that doesn't really belong here, but maybe I'll get the help I need from you all that are so helpful. Do the brake proportioning valves go bad or get gummed up? My problem involves a Ford, but it's a 1969 Tbird. There is not a great forum for Tbirds like we have here for trucks and the reason I am posting in the 73-79 forum is because I've read that Ford trucks did not have proportioning valves until 1973. I have not been able to get my brake light to go out since replacing some rear lines and I do know about bleeding the opposite chamber from where the breech occurred. After failing to get the light to got out, I started at the farthest wheel again. While bleeding, the initial bleed allowed fluid to come out, but when pumped up again for a second try, no fluid will come out and the pedal will not move. It's like the proportioning valve is blocking the fluid, but I'm not sure if the system works like that. If I wait a bit and try again, it repeats the same scenario. Also, is it possible to rebuild the valve, as I haven't been able to find a replacement at the parts stores. If this was my truck, it would probably be a whole lot easier to get to the valve and switch than it is on the Glamor-bird
#2
They certainly go bad. flush the whole thing out to have fresh fluid throughout. I installed a new master cylinder once and it didn't want to push fluid through the lines. I unhooked the lines and made sure fluid was being pushed out the holes. I hooked back into it, then I went to the slave and did the same, THEN I did a standard procedure bleed. Never had firmer brakes than that. Basically I made sure there were no bubbles at the master then I bled through the slave, once I could trust those, finally i hooked up my lines. It's tedious but I guess those old parts can be fussy. If that doesn't work get the replacement. I don't know of a good source. if you're trying to save money, get that thing out, disassemble, and inspect for internal rust that could hinder operation. Then make the the call, maybe it's plugged.
#3
#4
They certainly go bad. flush the whole thing out to have fresh fluid throughout. I installed a new master cylinder once and it didn't want to push fluid through the lines. I unhooked the lines and made sure fluid was being pushed out the holes. I hooked back into it, then I went to the slave and did the same, THEN I did a standard procedure bleed. Never had firmer brakes than that. Basically I made sure there were no bubbles at the master then I bled through the slave, once I could trust those, finally i hooked up my lines. It's tedious but I guess those old parts can be fussy. If that doesn't work get the replacement. I don't know of a good source. if you're trying to save money, get that thing out, disassemble, and inspect for internal rust that could hinder operation. Then make the the call, maybe it's plugged.
#5
Thanks Ultraranger, those links are really just what I can use. Now if I can just get to it and remove it without too much pain.
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