Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

1987 F250 4x4 Build Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #31  
Old 04-29-2015, 11:35 AM
Nothing Special's Avatar
Nothing Special
Nothing Special is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Roseville, MN
Posts: 4,964
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 45 Posts
Originally Posted by DrZoom
With a new fuel regulator, I'm still not able to get above 4 psi. I am going to check pressure at the pump tonight and see if that's all I'm getting. Can anybody tell me what the pressure should be? The truck was originally EFI, so I would think it would be a lot higher, but I have no idea if the pump was swapped out when the engine was. If a low pressure pump was put in, what pressure do those typically put out? I am thinking about just going aftermarket/universal and putting a single pump & regulator on the frame. What would I need to do to the in-tank pump to allow gas to flow freely through it, assuming I disconnect the wiring. I really just want to use it as a fuel pick-up.
I have a cheap electric fuel pressure gage on my Bronco (can't swear to its accuracy) and I get 2 psi with no problems.

Keep in mind that all the fuel pressure needs to do with a carb is get the float bowl full. As long as there's enough pressure to lift the fuel to the carb you've got enough pressure.

I suppose where you have the fuel pressure sensor would make a difference. 2 psi at the frame rail would be less pressure than 2 psi at the carb. My pressure sensor is at the carb.

But I can't see your 4 psi being a problem.
 
  #32  
Old 04-29-2015, 12:02 PM
DrZoom's Avatar
DrZoom
DrZoom is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boston, KY
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Nothing Special
I have a cheap electric fuel pressure gage on my Bronco (can't swear to its accuracy) and I get 2 psi with no problems.

Keep in mind that all the fuel pressure needs to do with a carb is get the float bowl full. As long as there's enough pressure to lift the fuel to the carb you've got enough pressure.

I suppose where you have the fuel pressure sensor would make a difference. 2 psi at the frame rail would be less pressure than 2 psi at the carb. My pressure sensor is at the carb.

But I can't see your 4 psi being a problem.
Mine is 4 psi at the carb with a cheap dial gauge. I am pretty sure my stumbling issue is with the distributor, but thought I'd include the fuel situation just in case. Either way, the end plan is to have a rock-solid truck that is easy to work on and easy to fix (and highly tuneable). Dropping the tank isn't easy or quick, so I'd like to only have to do it once.
 
  #33  
Old 04-29-2015, 12:48 PM
carguy94's Avatar
carguy94
carguy94 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: southern maryland
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Have you checked fuel volume. that's a big must with most any carburetor including yours because theirs plenty of combinations to play with to get psi even just taking a reading but volume will be cut and dry either its good or its bad. how did you set and adjust your timing?
 
  #34  
Old 04-29-2015, 01:15 PM
DrZoom's Avatar
DrZoom
DrZoom is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boston, KY
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by carguy94
Have you checked fuel volume. that's a big must with most any carburetor including yours because theirs plenty of combinations to play with to get psi even just taking a reading but volume will be cut and dry either its good or its bad. how did you set and adjust your timing?
Is there a good way to check volume aside from running the pump into a bottle and timing how long it takes to fill?

As far as timing goes, I used a timing light and set it to 10* advanced.
 
  #35  
Old 04-29-2015, 01:37 PM
85F350IDI's Avatar
85F350IDI
85F350IDI is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 656
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by DrZoom
I might just have to do a diesel swap solely for the ability to do that. I don't think a 9th spark plug would be as safe OR effective.
Well you could jury rig a GP stogie lighter, like replace the oem cgi lighter and wire the GP to the battery and just open/close the circuit with a switch, seems easy to me haha how ever it could prolly work with a spark plug but I'm iffy, better make sure you got the correct length for spark plug gap!
 
  #36  
Old 04-29-2015, 02:36 PM
DrZoom's Avatar
DrZoom
DrZoom is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boston, KY
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

I hope that my truck will be doing this soon. Right now though, I'd be happy with a smooth acceleration. A man can dream, right?
 
  #37  
Old 04-29-2015, 03:11 PM
carguy94's Avatar
carguy94
carguy94 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: southern maryland
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Measuring fuel flow in to a bucket would be your best choice that's what id do and what a lot of people do. If the truck is popping or pining that sounds like a timing issue especially if it happened as soon as you replaced the distributor. How does it run if you disconnect the advance on it. The guys truck in the video sounds like he got the cam that had flames on the box.
 
  #38  
Old 04-29-2015, 03:28 PM
DrZoom's Avatar
DrZoom
DrZoom is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boston, KY
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by carguy94
Measuring fuel flow in to a bucket would be your best choice that's what id do and what a lot of people do. If the truck is popping or pining that sounds like a timing issue especially if it happened as soon as you replaced the distributor. How does it run if you disconnect the advance on it. The guys truck in the video sounds like he got the cam that had flames on the box.
So if the timing is set to 10* and verified with a timing light, what could the timing issue be? I will try running it without the advance and see what happens.
 
  #39  
Old 04-29-2015, 03:40 PM
carguy94's Avatar
carguy94
carguy94 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: southern maryland
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It sounds fine but the issue could be something like timing changing under load or cruising speed. My thoughts are that timing is set just fine but revving an engine at idle in neutral and loaded in gear will get you two different reactions if somethings wrong.
 
  #40  
Old 04-29-2015, 03:50 PM
DrZoom's Avatar
DrZoom
DrZoom is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boston, KY
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by carguy94
It sounds fine but the issue could be something like timing changing under load or cruising speed. My thoughts are that timing is set just fine but revving an engine at idle in neutral and loaded in gear will get you two different reactions if somethings wrong.
When I got the truck, the SPOUT was hooked up to manifold vacuum. It ran fine, but the timing at idle was way more advanced than when unhooked. With the current new distributor and vacuum hooked up to the right spot, there is no difference between unhooked/hooked up SPOUT. I may try hooking it back up to manifold vacuum and see if that changes anything. Is there any way to check vacuum advance under load without making my wife ride under the hood with a timing light?
 
  #41  
Old 04-29-2015, 03:52 PM
DrZoom's Avatar
DrZoom
DrZoom is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boston, KY
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Being a non-original engine with some janky rigging, is it possible the harmonic balancer was not put in at the right alignment and my timing is not what is seems?
 
  #42  
Old 04-29-2015, 04:11 PM
carguy94's Avatar
carguy94
carguy94 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: southern maryland
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ignore this post cant figure out how to delete it?
 
  #43  
Old 04-29-2015, 04:13 PM
carguy94's Avatar
carguy94
carguy94 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: southern maryland
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Did you drive the truck with it un hooked or just at an idle. All you want your vacuum advance to do is keep the engine happy when you put your foot down on the throttle or under load at moderate rpm. if it runs fine unhooked then you can save your wife an adventure .

something like that sounds possible you could verify by comparing the crank pulley to piston position . sorry for the double post i tried to add to it and i hit post instead of edit.
 
  #44  
Old 04-29-2015, 04:37 PM
DrZoom's Avatar
DrZoom
DrZoom is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boston, KY
Posts: 613
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It idles great with or without vacuum advance.
 
  #45  
Old 04-29-2015, 04:47 PM
Redneckfordf2502002's Avatar
Redneckfordf2502002
Redneckfordf2502002 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Posts: 10,080
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by DrZoom
1977 F-150 4x4 Burnout - YouTube

I hope that my truck will be doing this soon. Right now though, I'd be happy with a smooth acceleration. A man can dream, right?
I think it might be extremely hard to do a burnout with that ZF5s really low first gear.


I am going to sit back and see where your problem leads as I don't know carbs that well but I am hoping our next brick will be a 87 F250 4x4 ZF5 460 super cab that I am looking at (last year of the brick I need to complete my collection).
Trav
 


Quick Reply: 1987 F250 4x4 Build Thread



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:38 PM.