Y block questions
#1
Y block questions
As most of you know, I am a flathead guy with Edith. But recently I went to visit DR Smith with the intention of buying a couple of trucks from his farm field find from a few months ago. Long story short, due to some extreme weather issues, after I arrived at the location with extra rented equipment and hired help, the intended trucks could not be retrieved as the equipment being used to pull them out got stuck in the mud. In a last ditch effort to cut my losses, I brought home the one truck (I passed on it before) that was able to be loaded on my trailer with the intention of trying to resale at the supernationals in hopes of recouping some of my expenses.
After installing some tires that will hold air and checking that the serial number is good, I discovered that this truck which originally came with a six, now has a Y block that after sitting in the weeds since (it appears '92) is not actually stuck. It turns by hand about 358°, so I am assuming it's a stuck valve. At first glance it appears to be a 239 so I began scraping to try and find the block castings to be sure. So far I have not found the castings, but I did find a tag on the pass side of the block. (Rebuilder's tag??)
Can anybody identify this or make sense of it?
After installing some tires that will hold air and checking that the serial number is good, I discovered that this truck which originally came with a six, now has a Y block that after sitting in the weeds since (it appears '92) is not actually stuck. It turns by hand about 358°, so I am assuming it's a stuck valve. At first glance it appears to be a 239 so I began scraping to try and find the block castings to be sure. So far I have not found the castings, but I did find a tag on the pass side of the block. (Rebuilder's tag??)
Can anybody identify this or make sense of it?
#2
My SWAG is the last series of 020, 020, 020 are undersize bearings and oversize bore. The first series is probably a serial number assigned by the rebuild shop. If memory serves me right, the numbers IDing the block are at the rear top of the block by the distributor.
Edit: A 239 would have the code EBU. Go here or Mummert's site for the ID chart.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...&hsimp=yhs-001
Edit: A 239 would have the code EBU. Go here or Mummert's site for the ID chart.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...&hsimp=yhs-001
#3
My SWAG is the last series of 020, 020, 020 are undersize bearings and oversize bore. The first series is probably a serial number assigned by the rebuild shop. If memory serves me right, the numbers IDing the block are at the rear top of the block by the distributor.
Edit: A 239 would have the code EBU. Go here or Mummert's site for the ID chart.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...&hsimp=yhs-001
Edit: A 239 would have the code EBU. Go here or Mummert's site for the ID chart.
https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...&hsimp=yhs-001
Also, could not find any block stampings near the distributor, but I did finally find it on the drivers side above the oil filter. Tuns out it is a (C1AE R) 1961 292, I guess I thought all the 292's had the Rams horn manifolds, which is why I assumed that it was the 239.
#4
Well, I found that it does in fact have a stuck exhaust valve on the #3 cylinder.
Also, could not find any block stampings near the distributor, but I did finally find it on the drivers side above the oil filter. Tuns out it is a (C1AE R) 1961 292, I guess I thought all the 292's had the Rams horn manifolds, which is why I assumed that it was the 239.
Also, could not find any block stampings near the distributor, but I did finally find it on the drivers side above the oil filter. Tuns out it is a (C1AE R) 1961 292, I guess I thought all the 292's had the Rams horn manifolds, which is why I assumed that it was the 239.
The identifying numbers are raised casting numbers, not stampings, but you probably knew that.
So, ya got her running yet?
#5
#6
Bend the pushrod.... that's kind of how I found which valve it was.... I pulled the Drivers side valve cover first and cranked it to check to see which one was tight, they all appeared OK. Then I pulled the Passenger side cover and the first thing I spotted was the #3 valve pushrod was missing... 'hint'! Sure enough, that valve don't move!!
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#9
#10
Actually, we all did before... but as I said in the first post, I bought this truck to flip it in hopes ofcovering some of my expenses
I did..
I did..
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