Need some help, I turned my ip about 3 flats and it stopped as if it were maxed out yet I barely get any smoke unless I stomp the pedal. I tried using leverage to see if it was just really stiff but I snapped the craftsman Allen key. Could the pump possibly be bad or ............? TIA

 

I will start this off with a disclaimer... I am NOT saying this to be an a##, I am saying it because you're quite vague on what you're actually asking about.

Don't come in to a site and ask how to get more smoke. Everyone will hate you and basically run you off because it's a stupid question and something that none of us like to actually answer.

Now, if you're asking for OTHER reasons, like how to figure out if your timing is right, or if you're low on power or fuel economy and are trying to figure out why, then by all means, say so. We are here (and more than happy) to help with things like that. But if this is a thread that's only purpose is to get your truck to roll coal, then my help in this thread ends here.

 

Sorry and no the intent is not to "roll coal" at all, the truck is just underpowered and figured something was wrong because I know it's supposed to "roll coal" when it's maxed out which it's not and I'm afraid i might damage something if either the timing is off or the pump is bad.

 

Ok, we can all work with this and figure something out. The fuel screw is definitely maxed out, once it stops turning that's all there is to it. I'm surprised you could get a full 3 turns out of it. Most guys can only get 1.5-2 turns. So here goes with the "internet diagnosing"...

How old (mileage) is your IP and injectors?
Do you have trouble starting once the engine is warmed up?
Ever notice a "miss" when idling?
At cold start up, do you notice a gray smoke for anything longer than 10 seconds?

The only thing you'll really damage if your timing is off (other than fuel economy) is your glow plugs. If you're too far advanced (I think) it will burn them up.

 

Assuming the ip and injectors are the original ones they have just over 144k miles and dont have any of those symptoms

 

Well, expected service life of the injection system is 100k-150k miles. Easiest way to tell if they're original is if they have any hints of gray paint on them. Your truck wouldn't be the first to be suffering from an old, tired injection system. Make sure you do your homework on any companies that you consider buying new parts from. There are about 1,000 posts on who NOT to use, and only 3 companies that have earned their place on my list of reputable builders. R+D, Conestoga, and Oregon Fuel Injection. Any others are to be used at your own risk.

 

Without any of those symptoms though, I would go with timing first and replacing parts after that if you're still not happy with performance. The IDI's only make about 180-190 hp anyway. Their power is all in torque.

 

Alright then ill check the timing, thanks for the help bud.

 

If you can't find anyone local to you who has a proper meter to check, there is a guy over on OB.net that rents some. And there's also a listing of guys who own meters and are willing to help others with timing. It's a science to get them timed properly... not rocket science, but not "tell the difference between a rock and dirt" science either. There's a good video on YT on how to do it, too.

 

Not all leaf springs are the same in these pumps... They are a subjective adjustment based on the output of the pump on the stand. That being said, a stock pump could "roll coal" or be maxed out at calibration, just depends on how it was put together...


Best thing is to buy from a supplier who you know what you are getting from...

 

Alright thanks alot guys ill start with the timing and go from there