prepping for holley offy efi mani swap !!!HELP!!!
#1
04-05-2015, 10:19 PM
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prepping for holley offy efi mani swap !!!HELP!!!
hello been a member a few months
been reading just about every post and sticky / how to / tips n tricks
hers what I need
I'm pretty handy and can follow directions
so I recently got a 86 f150 2wd standard cab bone stock 4.9l
doing some swapping / craigs listing / flea marting I now have
offy c series with erg spot on bottom 4 bbl with spacer
Holley 490 from an old Chrysler as the number's read as a set I got them in trade off of a 92 bronco 300 automatic
just found a set of efi manifolds with stock 2 to 1 pipe
at local flea mart brand new 75 bucks
and will have my coolant heater plate for the intake back this weekend
now what exactly do I have to remove and cut away and alter
like all the emission hoses and wires going into the computer
my worry is since this is my only vehicle if I mess up im bussing to work
is there an 1 2 3 to 100 or what ever of what I should do 1st like cut the green wire but keep the red wire kind of knowledge is what im looking for
I would hate to just start cutting and burn the truck up
thanks in advance for any incite and sorry this is way long
BlackJaq
been reading just about every post and sticky / how to / tips n tricks
hers what I need
I'm pretty handy and can follow directions
so I recently got a 86 f150 2wd standard cab bone stock 4.9l
doing some swapping / craigs listing / flea marting I now have
offy c series with erg spot on bottom 4 bbl with spacer
Holley 490 from an old Chrysler as the number's read as a set I got them in trade off of a 92 bronco 300 automatic
just found a set of efi manifolds with stock 2 to 1 pipe
at local flea mart brand new 75 bucks
and will have my coolant heater plate for the intake back this weekend
now what exactly do I have to remove and cut away and alter
like all the emission hoses and wires going into the computer
my worry is since this is my only vehicle if I mess up im bussing to work
is there an 1 2 3 to 100 or what ever of what I should do 1st like cut the green wire but keep the red wire kind of knowledge is what im looking for
I would hate to just start cutting and burn the truck up
thanks in advance for any incite and sorry this is way long
BlackJaq
Last edited by BlackJaq; 04-05-2015 at 10:27 PM. Reason: add pics
#2
04-05-2015, 10:30 PM
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#4
04-05-2015, 10:43 PM
Lead Driver
One of the best features of this forum is the search button. When I undertake a project as you are about to I search and read and take notes about items I'll need, what to look for, what worked and what didn't.
Whatever you are doing a member has done it before and there is usually a thread here or one found through Google in another forum. So take those notes, cover all your bases, have what you need waiting, and the project should roll right along.
My 2 cents: Exhaust connection and throttle hook up might be small issues.
Use a Mr. Gasket #260 for the in/exh. Use studs, not bolts, as they make the job easier. Hillco dot com is a good source, grade eight, 2" long, and retain your thick oem washers to reuse. Most likely you'll need to grind a bit here and there.
Whatever you are doing a member has done it before and there is usually a thread here or one found through Google in another forum. So take those notes, cover all your bases, have what you need waiting, and the project should roll right along.
My 2 cents: Exhaust connection and throttle hook up might be small issues.
Use a Mr. Gasket #260 for the in/exh. Use studs, not bolts, as they make the job easier. Hillco dot com is a good source, grade eight, 2" long, and retain your thick oem washers to reuse. Most likely you'll need to grind a bit here and there.
#5
04-06-2015, 11:54 AM
The best way to plan it is to start at the engine head and plan to the tail pipe.
Head to manifolds.
The intake/exhaust share the same bolts. Definitely switch these to studs (use grade 8. I've had lesser ones snap). A 2" stud is good.
The stock thick washers work really well. However, I'd had problems with them being too small in diameter for the EFI/offenhauser setup. They worked, but would barely nip the edges of a few of the tabs.
I had good luck with these as they're beefy thick.
https://www.nutty.com/EXTRA-THICK-Gr...ers_c_427.html
You have to get them in lots of 25, so since there are 13 studs, I just got 26. The 1/2" ones work well, but I also grabbed a set of the 9/16" too, just in case.
Always be sure to torque in the proper sequence. This image has the stock manifolds, but the sequence is the same:
Exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...view/make/ford
As for the rest of the exhaust, how do you plan on doing it?
Do you plan on just integrating the 2.5" Walker pipe into your current exhaust? Or take it down and have the rest done? By a 2.5" muffler and catalytic converter? They also make pre-made 2.5" tail pipes for the trucks that you can buy, and then get some straight pipe. This is how I did mine and I put on my whole exhaust in my driveway with pipe-clamps (I don't have a welder).
Intake manifold to carb
Do you have a set of gaskets? Mounting studs? Spacer?
I was really pleased with this spacer from Summit since it came with the spacer, two gaskets, and the mounting studs:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1412/overview/
Carburetor
First off, that's a really interesting carb you have there! I've never seen one. Do you have a model number? Very cool. I'll be curious to hear how it does.
How do you plan on hooking up the throttle? This can often be one of the trickiest parts.
The stock cable may work, depending on how inventive you are. The original cable bracket mounts to the stock intake manifold, which it won't do with the new manifold. I've seen where someone welded the stock bracket large washer, which they bolted on to one of the intake/exhaust studs.
Or, you can get a full aftermarket throttle cable, return spring, and mounting setup. Lokar makes some.
Then, any regular circular 4bbl air filter should do.
Ignition
That should get your carb side set up. Next is the ignition.
The '86 has a computer controlled ignition, which won't work. It'll run, yes, but not very well. The computer controls the advance curve of the distributor, and since you're removing most of the components, it won't do it and will keep you timing static.
Look into the DuraSpark II swap and you should get a lot of info on it. You'll need the distributor, coil, and ignition module.
Or, if you have nice, deep pockets, order up a DUI ignition from PerformanceDistributors as it's an all-in-one and will make your life a lot easier.
What you can remove
You won't be messing much with the charging system, so don't touch the alternator, starter, or related components.
But what you can remove is pretty much everything else.
The AIR pump and EGR setup are integrated into the stock manifolds. The EGR will come off with the manifold, but you can remove the pump as well.
The massive brick of wires going into firewall and the computer under the dash. Disconnect the wires from wherever they go to.
The vacuum solenoids on the back of the valve cover and all the related components of what the vacuum lines are going to.
Basically, when you're done, you'll have:
Brake booster (vacuum line from the intake to the brake booster)
PCV (vacuum line from the intake to the PCV valve on the valve cover)
Vacuum advance (vacuum line from the ported vacuum on the carb, if equipped, to the vacuum advance canister on the DuraSpark II (or DUI) distributor). If there's no ported vacuum, just use full vacuum.
That should give you plenty to think about.
Head to manifolds.
The intake/exhaust share the same bolts. Definitely switch these to studs (use grade 8. I've had lesser ones snap). A 2" stud is good.
The stock thick washers work really well. However, I'd had problems with them being too small in diameter for the EFI/offenhauser setup. They worked, but would barely nip the edges of a few of the tabs.
I had good luck with these as they're beefy thick.
https://www.nutty.com/EXTRA-THICK-Gr...ers_c_427.html
You have to get them in lots of 25, so since there are 13 studs, I just got 26. The 1/2" ones work well, but I also grabbed a set of the 9/16" too, just in case.
Always be sure to torque in the proper sequence. This image has the stock manifolds, but the sequence is the same:
Exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...view/make/ford
As for the rest of the exhaust, how do you plan on doing it?
Do you plan on just integrating the 2.5" Walker pipe into your current exhaust? Or take it down and have the rest done? By a 2.5" muffler and catalytic converter? They also make pre-made 2.5" tail pipes for the trucks that you can buy, and then get some straight pipe. This is how I did mine and I put on my whole exhaust in my driveway with pipe-clamps (I don't have a welder).
Intake manifold to carb
Do you have a set of gaskets? Mounting studs? Spacer?
I was really pleased with this spacer from Summit since it came with the spacer, two gaskets, and the mounting studs:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1412/overview/
Carburetor
First off, that's a really interesting carb you have there! I've never seen one. Do you have a model number? Very cool. I'll be curious to hear how it does.
How do you plan on hooking up the throttle? This can often be one of the trickiest parts.
The stock cable may work, depending on how inventive you are. The original cable bracket mounts to the stock intake manifold, which it won't do with the new manifold. I've seen where someone welded the stock bracket large washer, which they bolted on to one of the intake/exhaust studs.
Or, you can get a full aftermarket throttle cable, return spring, and mounting setup. Lokar makes some.
Then, any regular circular 4bbl air filter should do.
Ignition
That should get your carb side set up. Next is the ignition.
The '86 has a computer controlled ignition, which won't work. It'll run, yes, but not very well. The computer controls the advance curve of the distributor, and since you're removing most of the components, it won't do it and will keep you timing static.
Look into the DuraSpark II swap and you should get a lot of info on it. You'll need the distributor, coil, and ignition module.
Or, if you have nice, deep pockets, order up a DUI ignition from PerformanceDistributors as it's an all-in-one and will make your life a lot easier.
What you can remove
You won't be messing much with the charging system, so don't touch the alternator, starter, or related components.
But what you can remove is pretty much everything else.
The AIR pump and EGR setup are integrated into the stock manifolds. The EGR will come off with the manifold, but you can remove the pump as well.
The massive brick of wires going into firewall and the computer under the dash. Disconnect the wires from wherever they go to.
The vacuum solenoids on the back of the valve cover and all the related components of what the vacuum lines are going to.
Basically, when you're done, you'll have:
Brake booster (vacuum line from the intake to the brake booster)
PCV (vacuum line from the intake to the PCV valve on the valve cover)
Vacuum advance (vacuum line from the ported vacuum on the carb, if equipped, to the vacuum advance canister on the DuraSpark II (or DUI) distributor). If there's no ported vacuum, just use full vacuum.
That should give you plenty to think about.
#6
04-06-2015, 11:08 PM
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the carb came on the offy from the bronco source has all the hardware ad spacer
exh im going to cut off about 3 inches after the rear most inlet from the mani and run 3 in to a flowmaster type then out the back no cat no bends other than over the rear axel
I have a spectre universal throttle cable bracket from local napa I saw it in the clearance bin for a buck dura spark is that the type that has the box on the drivers side fender I have a coil ign box and complete distrubitor from a 82 e100 van new in box would that work?
exh im going to cut off about 3 inches after the rear most inlet from the mani and run 3 in to a flowmaster type then out the back no cat no bends other than over the rear axel
I have a spectre universal throttle cable bracket from local napa I saw it in the clearance bin for a buck dura spark is that the type that has the box on the drivers side fender I have a coil ign box and complete distrubitor from a 82 e100 van new in box would that work?
#7
04-06-2015, 11:14 PM
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#8
04-07-2015, 03:11 PM
Lead Driver
Try to remove [intact] the computer and associated wiring, EGR components, etc. This takes more time, but there are 1984 - 1986 vehicles with the 4.9L engine residing in emission testing areas. The owners might want/need some of these parts which are difficult to find.
By the way, do you live in an area which tests for emissions?
Look down the throat of the rear most pipe of the Walker exhaust. Sometimes, the hole is not open all the way and can be cleaned up with a hole saw. This will improve the flow of the rear 3 cylinders.
By the way, do you live in an area which tests for emissions?
Look down the throat of the rear most pipe of the Walker exhaust. Sometimes, the hole is not open all the way and can be cleaned up with a hole saw. This will improve the flow of the rear 3 cylinders.
#12
04-10-2015, 09:49 PM
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no I don't have emissions here in Eugene Oregon
not yet anyway in major citys north and south of here there is
still looking for the wire harness going to wreck yard tomorrow
just found a 93 f150 xlt with a 3L55 8.8 rear axel with overload springs
picked it up rim to rim for 50 bucks
going to swap out my 3.33 open diff stock 3 leaf man I cant wait to pull some hedges out this summer
not yet anyway in major citys north and south of here there is
still looking for the wire harness going to wreck yard tomorrow
just found a 93 f150 xlt with a 3L55 8.8 rear axel with overload springs
picked it up rim to rim for 50 bucks
going to swap out my 3.33 open diff stock 3 leaf man I cant wait to pull some hedges out this summer
#13
04-11-2015, 04:26 PM
Sounds like you have a really nice project going. You'll love the results when all said and done.
Nice find on the full ignition too. That looks like it should freshen it all up nicely. And yes, those components are a great step toward the DSII swap. About all you need is the wiring harness. Good luck on finding it.
Nice find on the full ignition too. That looks like it should freshen it all up nicely. And yes, those components are a great step toward the DSII swap. About all you need is the wiring harness. Good luck on finding it.
#14
04-14-2015, 08:56 PM
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#15
04-14-2015, 09:10 PM