1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Still hard to start when at operating temperature

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  #31  
Old 04-07-2015, 01:31 PM
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Ok so I found the problem thanks to yall ! I popped the passenger side valve cover started it when it was hot and nothing , so I put it back on and went to the driver side crossing my fingeres popped the driver side valve cover off and started it and damn sure it was , I beileve injector 4 I'm not sure was gushing oil all over the place !!!! So I got the new o-ring kit for it and soon to put it on , thank yall so much !
 
  #32  
Old 04-07-2015, 01:36 PM
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Good deal! Sounds pretty conclusive to me. Are you sure you don't want to put new o-rings on them all while you're at it?

Also, be aware that you need to take additional precautions to get all the oil out of that cylinder after you pull the injector. It will be hard to start the first time as well, and may be slow to start for a few days following the repair (until all the air is out of the system).
 
  #33  
Old 04-07-2015, 01:41 PM
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Well I really don't have time to put all 8 on , and I think I have one of those big germ x pumps that I'll use to pump the oil out of the cylinder , my dad told me to take the glow plug out and spin the motor over but I don't want oil and fuel shooting all over the motor and truck , isn't there a like oil rail drain ?
 
  #34  
Old 04-07-2015, 01:49 PM
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Yeah, you can drain the oil rail if you want, but you talk about making a mess....

The best thing to do is to do as you've said and suck it out of the cylinder with a pump (I used a MightyVac) and a little hose. It's best to make sure the cylinder is at the top of its stroke just so you can get the oil out as best as possible. Then turn the engine over with a wrench if you can with 7 of the injectors still in the truck. Only pulling 1 injector, you're going to have a hard time turning it over. You can also bump the starter to make sure that the cylinder is clear. Just set the valve cover back on it and finger tighten a couple bolts. That will catch the flying stuff and return it to the pan. Just bump the starter (with the key off you can jump the terminals on the starter relay on the fender or pull the PCM relay and hit the key), if you crank it for long, you're just pumping more fuel and oil into the hole...

Also, it may already be too late, but the o-rings should really only be Alliant or Motorcraft. If you're getting them from Riffraff or Dieselorings.com you should be fine. The cheaper aftermarket o-rings aren't worth your trouble installing them. They will go bad again soon and you will be in there doing this again.
 
  #35  
Old 04-07-2015, 02:02 PM
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So do I need to remove the glow plug To suck the oil out ? And they are alliant ones
 
  #36  
Old 04-07-2015, 02:07 PM
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When I did mine, I removed both plugs and drained the oil rail on each side. I opened them and basically walked away for 20 minutes while it drained. I then worked front to back (opposite of how they tell you). The very second I pulled the injector, I shoved a wad of blue shop rag paper towels down the hole. They all soaked up a little bit, but the rear injector ports soaked up the most. After reinstalling the injectors and removing the glow plugs, I spun the motor by hand a few times to get the oil out of the cylinder head. Never made a mess with any of it. When cranking again for the first time, I left the injector harnesses disconnected and cranked for about 20-30 seconds, then waited about 10 minutes and did it again. When everything was back together, it cranked up fairly quickly.

I would also do all 8 sets of o-rings. If you're worried about time, then at least just do all 4 on that side.

Here's a fairly decent video to help you out: (skip to about the 2 minute mark)
 
  #37  
Old 04-07-2015, 02:50 PM
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What I did on mine is to suck out as much of the oil and fuel as I could with the injectors out, then install them all so I wouldn't be pumping more into the cylinders. Then I pulled the glow plugs, put the covers back on with a couple bolts finger tight, and then cranked it over. When you crank it over, you don't want to do so with the engine trying to run, so either pull the PCM relay, unplug all the injector harnesses, or (what I did) is to leave the keys out of the ignition (key off) and just jump the starter relay momentarily. Be prepared for a racket though! It sounds like you have a Sikorsky under the hood with all that compression escaping through the glow plug holes. Since you're just doing one hole, I don't think you'll be able to turn the engine over by hand, so this is probably your best bet.
 
  #38  
Old 04-07-2015, 04:43 PM
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Ight well I just got done with the road test with the new o-rings and drove it for about 5mins and its chopping a little bit and making an odd quite sound how long does it take for it to stop doing that ?
 
  #39  
Old 04-07-2015, 05:51 PM
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What do you mean "chopping"? What kind of odd sound? If it's just air in the system it can take up to a couple hundred miles to get it acting normal again. The best thing to do if it's just air is to take it out and drive it like you stole it! lol. Get into it good and see if it smooths up any.
 
  #40  
Old 04-09-2015, 07:54 AM
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Oh yeah it runs fine now , no smoke and no more chopping ��
 
  #41  
Old 04-09-2015, 07:55 AM
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So what did you do to it? Just drive it until the air was out of the system?
 
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