Heater fan running without key, dome lights staying on.
#1
Heater fan running without key, dome lights staying on.
1999 f250 sd cc 4x4 v10
Got in the truck this am to drive to work and it was dead, not even a click. Ended up taking 20 minutes to jump. This was the first time I drove it in 4 days so I thought maybe I left something on.
Well 12 hrs later after work, completely dead. Another 20 min to jump. This time a loud buzzing noise coming from the dome light relay ( top relay under dash) and blower motor keeps running with the key out.
Swapped relays around, pulled fuses, etc. Checked fuse box and GEM for moisture and didn't feel any.
Possible windshield leak? Can I just run a bead of silicone over the weatherstripping or what's the best way to seal?
Not sure what else it could be, it has rained hard the last 2 days.
Thank you
Got in the truck this am to drive to work and it was dead, not even a click. Ended up taking 20 minutes to jump. This was the first time I drove it in 4 days so I thought maybe I left something on.
Well 12 hrs later after work, completely dead. Another 20 min to jump. This time a loud buzzing noise coming from the dome light relay ( top relay under dash) and blower motor keeps running with the key out.
Swapped relays around, pulled fuses, etc. Checked fuse box and GEM for moisture and didn't feel any.
Possible windshield leak? Can I just run a bead of silicone over the weatherstripping or what's the best way to seal?
Not sure what else it could be, it has rained hard the last 2 days.
Thank you
#2
It's very likely water in the fusebox/GEM. Classic symptoms.
You can try sealing it yourself or you can have the windshield removed and re-sealed professionally and they can look for rust or corrosion around the seal boundary.
Get it dried out as soon as you can so corrosion doesn't set in.
You can try sealing it yourself or you can have the windshield removed and re-sealed professionally and they can look for rust or corrosion around the seal boundary.
Get it dried out as soon as you can so corrosion doesn't set in.
#3
As someone in the auto/truck glass biz I can tell you trying to seal a leak without specific knowledge where its location is pretty useless.
As PSHO if you can determine for certain the w/s is leaking this is best left to a professional glass shop. Typically I'd suggest removing the w/s which tends to mean replacing it as its very, very difficult removing it fully intact.
Once removed the pinchweld should be inspected for rust and corrosion, repaired properly before the w/s is reset or replaced.
If there is a leak also check under the carpet for accumulated water and possible rusting of the floor panels.
As PSHO if you can determine for certain the w/s is leaking this is best left to a professional glass shop. Typically I'd suggest removing the w/s which tends to mean replacing it as its very, very difficult removing it fully intact.
Once removed the pinchweld should be inspected for rust and corrosion, repaired properly before the w/s is reset or replaced.
If there is a leak also check under the carpet for accumulated water and possible rusting of the floor panels.
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jt371
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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12-18-2014 06:55 PM