electric choke hook up?
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On the factory set up the electric assisted choke is powered by the stator terminal on the alternator through a white w/ black trace wire. The stator provides ~7 volts AC to the choke.
Aftermarket carbs use 12 volts DC to power the choke.
Although it calls for 12V DC to the choke, in the past I've used the factory hook up without problems on aftermarket carbs.
(thanks for the "hat tip" Rich ).
Aftermarket carbs use 12 volts DC to power the choke.
Although it calls for 12V DC to the choke, in the past I've used the factory hook up without problems on aftermarket carbs.
(thanks for the "hat tip" Rich ).
#7
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I'm scratching my head a little on that. IIRC Holley says that less than full voltage won't unwind the bimetal all the way. You remember anything like that?
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Yeah Marc, that's what Holley says. I used to hook the choke up to a switched power source. One time I was in a hurry (don't remember why though...old age rearing it's ugly head I guess ) and just used the factory wire, the choke seemed to work just fine. The choke opened fully and didn't seem to take any longer, so, since then, I've used the factory wiring for the choke. If nothing else, it looks a little more original, I really hate crimped wire terminals .
#13
Well shut my mouth and call me sweet pea. You learn something new every day.
That's a good one to know.
I hate crimps also. I'm trying to rid myself of that affliction.
That's a good one to know.
I hate crimps also. I'm trying to rid myself of that affliction.
#15
I ran my choke wire from the original alternator system, now it looks like I need to run a new one to the 3G alternator now because the wire I used no longer has power anymore.
I just installed a Hobbs Switch for the fuel pump, I could just tie into the power side of the fuel pump relay. Not a bad idea.
I just installed a Hobbs Switch for the fuel pump, I could just tie into the power side of the fuel pump relay. Not a bad idea.