I have a 1994 Aerostar van, and the steering has been a big problem for me. I hired mechanics to install a rebuilt rack and pinion about 4 years ago, and they replaced the power steering pump at the same time. With very few miles on this rebuild (less than 1,000) the rack and pinion began to leak through the boot. I kept re-filling the reservoir on the PS pump, but finally decided to stop driving the vehicle. I heard that new seals can be purchased, and installed in the rack and pinion. To have the rack and pinion replaced is going to be $700, and the seal kit is only $35. Can the amateur mechanic do this project? Are there any special tools required? Does the rack and pinion Have to be removed from the vehicle to do this? Any advice on taking this repair route would be greatly appreciated....

Dan

 

I don't think you can replace the seals without removing the rack. At least I wouldn't want to try.
NAPA lists a rack for $109.00, $71.74 at Advance and it's not that hard to replace the entire rack. It's the way I'd go.

 

I agree with 87&97Aerostrar - a lot less hassle to replace the rack with one from Advance or Autozone than to try and repair one.

I replaced one rack myself and it was not so difficult.

but $700.00 ?? unheard of.

 

Are you sure the rack is leaking, and not the pressure line?

And is it AWD? That will make it somewhat more difficult, but not impossible. Sense it has been replaced fairly recently, it should not be rusted in compared to the original.

Like what has been said, it would be easier to replace the rack sense you have to pull it anyway.

 

The rack and pinion cylinder, piston and valves most likely have rust in them which have ate out the seals. The rough rust surfaces and damage are not rebuild-able by DIYer. Some of the "rebuild factorys" don't even bother with making sure all cyl and valve surfaces are perfect with no corrosion. They just throw some seals in and ship it to the next sucker.
Replace only with new if you can find one or Motorcraft rebuild. Include the power steering pump in this scenario. All hoses and any reused PS fluid carrying parts have to be flushed and spotless inside.

ONLY use full real synthetic PS fluid or ATF in these. I've been using Mobil 1 ATF or Redline D4 in mine for years. Flush every 2>4 years and still trucking after 180k miles+. Original PS pump and rack, no leaks. Even ran with the pump bone dry for 20 miles home out of the hills after a line broke, still quiet and can still crank a tire off the rim.
Put in an inline ATF/PS fluid filter canister and a large inline fluid cooler in front of the radiator. The PS system lasts forever if kept cool and water free in these. I don't even have the Ford Howling from Hell PS pump noise that causes so many to dump these wonderful vans.

Most sane people know better than to tackle the nightmare pinion with it's seals, tension specs setting and spool valve from hell. Lots of them are taken apart and then abandoned as hopeless.

Major power steering systme corrosion is too common on these Aeros with the PS pump from hell that sucks cowl drain water in.
When you get it all replaced and good, put a soup can over the PS pump fill cap spout.

Here's a general idea of what you're up against.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/steeri...er_sockets.htm

 

I've dealt with the cowl drain water on the power steering cap;

as it turned out, the plastic drain "bladder" was not properly seated on the steel drain tube; The steel tube has a raised rim around it onto which the plastic bladder sort of "snaps" as you push it up, and if both are not properly seated, water gushes out through the top of the bladder, and it lands right on the pwr. steering cap.

to remove the bladder you use a flat screwdriver under the front of the plastic clamp to release the clamp, (which also needs to be seated correctly per a notch on the rear on the neck of the bladder). I added silicone caulking inside the bladder's neck recess and no more water on the pwr. steering cap.

 

One problem I've had to deal with was the rubber bladder collecting and filling with crud collected from the cowl. The gunk had formed into a glob like, and totally plugged it up. I was able to grab it with my hand, crumble it enough to force it out of the drain slot at the bottom of the bladder. The it would again properly channel water where it was supposed to.

 

yes, when that happens I just remove the drain bladder and pressure hose it outside, I also remove the wipers, then the cowl grille, and hose the inside of the cowl with pressure, first covering the power steering cap with an open zipper bag.

this cowl draining system is used in many cars, my two jags have 3/4" rubber bladders too, same clogging problem after a few years of crud collecting in there.

 

My Aero is parked out on the street under fir and maple trees year around. Don't have time nor interest to go out weekly and clean the cowl drain out so the PS pump doesn't fill with water.
Easy quick absolute and permanent solution, can over PS fill cap snout.