1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

'54 getting too loose - suggestions?

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  #31  
Old 02-27-2015, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by das54
So is this a mid-fifty shackle?????
NO its the NOS one I listed on page one of this thread
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1942-1956-Ford-Truck-100-rear-spring-hanger-and-pins-FoMoCo-21C-5776-/371269502084?vxp=mtr
 
  #32  
Old 02-27-2015, 07:12 AM
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You may want to look to Job-Lot in NYC. I got shackles and bushings there a few years ago.
 
  #33  
Old 03-24-2015, 10:22 PM
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I bought and installed the mid-fifty hangers. Then last Saturday I finally fabricated new hangers for the HYB Excel-G shocks, model 343144, that I bought several months ago. WOW. My truck has manners. Now I drive across the RR tracks and it stays in line. Here's the right side.







 
  #34  
Old 03-24-2015, 10:38 PM
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and the drivers side. Had to rework the brake line. These shocks are for a VW beetle. They have a min. length of 10-3/8 inches and a max length of 16.5 inches. That's the shortest length shock I could find that has a loop bushing and sleeve on both ends and what I considered an adequate travel length for the conventional geometry on a '54 F100. The min. length for the stock shock is about 1 inch longer and that would have put the lower end that much closer to the ground. The shock for a C1 - C3 vette has a min. length of 9.5" but a travel length of only 4.5 inches.

WOW, did I mention how much better my truck rides and handles with rear shocks?










 
  #35  
Old 03-24-2015, 10:51 PM
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Ok, so you want to know why I didn't mount these using the same geometry as the original set up. Well, with lowering it several inches the original shocks were at more than 45 degree angle and when loaded they actually hit the frame rail. They also get in the way of mounting a spare tire under the bed, well the cross member for the shock upper mount and my hitch receiver. I wanted the shock more vertical and someday I might replace these with a pair of Monroe MA803 air shocks to handle heavier loads, like pulling my camper trailer, so locating the upper end on the side of the frame rail and in front of the C knotch seemed best.

Old setup.
 
  #36  
Old 03-25-2015, 05:11 AM
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You might want to take that bolt out of the vent hose for the rear end. That baby needs to breathe .
 
  #37  
Old 03-25-2015, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by GLR
You might want to take that bolt out of the vent hose for the rear end. That baby needs to breathe .
Yes, all that work under there and I didn't make a clip to hold the vent hose. I still need to get under there to finish the parking brake cables too.
 
  #38  
Old 01-11-2016, 12:56 AM
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Now I'm working on the front suspension. It was a little loose - not the NASCAR kind of loose - it just like to wander around. In this video I show you how bad the steering box is. The upper ball joists are a bit loose too. I suspect all new wear parts will help tighten it up a bit. In the video I say 1/4 inch regarding the free play in the steering box but I meant 1/4 turn. Actually it's about 1/8 turn - that is the steering wheel would turn about 45 degrees with no movement of the pitman arm.
 
  #39  
Old 01-11-2016, 08:00 AM
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Your top rear shock mount looks good but not sure about the bottom one. The photo maybe not showing the end of it well. With low mileage you might be ok but best keep a check on it. That style of fitting is normally designed to be in double shear. If you combine single shear with higher loading it could break or fatigue.
 
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