Hey guys I have a 1985 f150 302efi that I am currently in the process of swapping out the efi to carb... I have done some research and bought the parts that are required for the swap from summit racing. I have already removed the efi upper and lower intake manifold. I have installed my edelbrock 3721 intake manifold and that's about it.... my knowledge on how carb set up engines is limited so I need help on what to do next. I don't know how to hook up my coil or distributor... I know how to do the timing and all I just don't understand what wire's I will be hooking up where.... I also have a edelbrock 1406 carb and fuel pressure regulator and don't know how that hooks up and to what either... someone help walk me thru this process please

 

You will have to take the distributor you have now out, it's no good to you without the computer.

You have a decision to make, there are several ways to go.

You can use a old points distributor. I don't recommend that unless you want to convert it to electronic using a pertronix unit.

You can use a Ford duraspark II system. That will be the dist, the module and the wiring to hook it up. This is what Ford used before they went to efi.

Or you could go to ebay or some other place and buy one of those aftermarket distributors. They make them that use a GM HEI system, and also there are systems made by unilite, MSD, etc.


You will need to do something with the fuel tanks and the fuel system. I get the impression you were going to try to use the original high pressure fuel system, since you have a regulator. I have never done it that way, but if you do you will need to do some wiring to power the pumps. The computer powered the relay which activated the original pumps.

You could get tanks from a carbed truck and install them along with the proper sending units and switching valve. You could then get a low pressure pump made for a carb and not have to run the regulator.

 

I have read on other parts of the forum that you can power the pumps without the computer by grounding the fuel pump pin in the EEC test connector. This is supposed to trigger the fuel pump relay whenever the key is on.

 

Yes, that would probably work. As long as you didn't do any wire cutting to the power feed for the EEC relay which powers the computer and the fuel pump relay.

 

I'm to that step as we speak, I was wondering why I couldn't get fuel.... can you point me in the right direction for a diagram so I know which pin it is? I also am still a lil confused on the distributor, it came from summit racing it's there brand it has three wire's Orange black and red... the coil has two terminals neg and positive. I also am lost as to how to hook up the electric coke and throttle linkage I'm sure the bracket that the summit racing tech recommended will not work

 

Do you have a link to the distributor you bought?

Here's a picture of the plug with the fuel pump relay wire.

 

Update: I have everything installed and correctly for the most part I heard it run off starting fluid for about five seconds... I hooked the three distributor and coil up I used a test light to find the ignition wire from the plug going to the old distributor and tied into it for now. I have very few things hooked up from the wiring harness on the the engine I didn't tear up the harness at all. I tried grounding out the pin but I got nothing from the pump in the thank tank no noise no fuel and I disconnected the supply line under the bed coming from my front tank going to the fuel pump I installed on the chassis. My rear tank doesn't work I only use the front so I guess I'll be dropping the tank tomorrow to see what I can do to get some fuel flowing to the carb... I also will have to figure out how to hook up the electric coke since I got the carb from a buddy and it didn't come with instructions. Once I have it running and any kinks I run into lined out I'll begin to try and figure out the throttle linkage and hope I can find a bracket for it somewhere.

 

If you are going to drop the tank I really would pull the old electric pump out and change it all over to a low pressure pump mounted on the frame rail with it's own wire for power. All that junk you are trying to use is just something more to go wrong.

I am thinking you could take the pump off and then run a piece of FUEL HOSE in place of the pump.

 

That's what I plan to do, I already have the pump wired off its on power source.... any advice on the electric choke? Can I run it to a push button in the cab off its own power source and it work that way? Also has anyone done this swap that has any info on the throttle linkage and tv cable when I get it running I can't drive it until I figure that out if I don't do it right it won't shift correctly and I'm pretty sure my trans wouldn't last long if so

 

You must have a AOD? That can be a problem. There is a thread going on now in this forum about that. I think Lokar is the only company that makes anything close to being suitable.

The choke needs power anytime the key is on. Your best bet is to run a wire to the fuse box and use a fuse tap to get power from something in there that is hot anytime the key is in run.

 

Here's the thread on the AOD cable.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...le-change.html

 

I'm preparing to do this myself shortly (amongst other things), and wanted to ask a silly question. What if the computer was left in place, still wired up? It was my understanding that the in-tank fuel pumps would operate as before - obviously the HP pump would still need to be changed to something more carb-friendly - and the existing distributor wouldn't notice the difference.
Yes / no / crazy?

 

I think when you start messing with that stuff the computer puts the ignition
system into an automatic limp home mode, no advance on dist. etc.
You have really opened a can of worms so be prepared.
If you don't get that Lokar deal or whatever you will burn up your trans really fast.
You really need to look up past posts on doing the DS2 swap there are a bunch of them.
Keep you occupied for a couple days reading all that! .. :-)

 

^^^ What he said.
I don't know where you picked up that the computer wouldn't notice the difference but the Internet is full of all sorts of fable so you can probably find anything you want if you search around enough...

 

From Conanski on the 1987-1996 forum:
"Then disconnect the main engine harness in the truck and put it aside, and hard wire the fuel pump relay to turn on when the key hits run by grounding the fuel pump pin in the EEC test connector(see pic above in post #6). You can then remove the EFI computer so you don't have to look at a check engine light all the time."