Thought it was going to be a monumental after a 7 1/2 yr. build . Installed the new heater core in the Magic Air heater , installed heater , filled system with water ( no leaks) , installed battery connected the neg. cable & as I touched the pos. lead to the battery it sparked and the solenoid engaged . Obviously I have some thing wrong . Before attempting this consulted the manual and other sources for correct connections . What am I missing . Am itching to have the stock truck move under it's own power .How could I mess up something so simple ? Feel like an idiot ! Thanks , Denny

 

Are you still 6v positive ground?

 

Denny, start by verifying you have the battery in correctly. Looks to me like that is the negative battery hooked to your ground strap. Verify this is right and then pull that small start wire lug from the relay.

 

Not the way the battery is connected!

Repro solenoids are sketchy, test it out first.

 

Almost sounds like your starter switch is grounding out. Remember the switch completes the circuit to ground, the pushbutton case is grounded to the dashboard.

 

If you are running the original 6 volt positive ground, your red lead from the starter solenoid should be hooked to negative and your ground strap to frame, (ground). Looking at your battery, it looks like negative is going to ground.

 

Not on a '52. They are a two-wire switch that connects the two terminals when pushed. '48-'51 are as you describe.

 

Denny, it looks like you have your battery hooked up as a negative ground? If this is the case disconnect the small red wire from the solenoid and try hooking up battery again. If it no longer cranks the problem is with the start switch or it's wiring. If it still cranks it is most likely a bad solenoid.

 

Has anyone ever explained why positive ground was used in the first place? Have heard corrosion issues. Or why they made the switch actually? Advent of transistors is supposedly "the" answer, they are negatively grounded (for cooling purposes) Anyway, sorry don't want to derail thread.

Kind of a mind bender though. Must have been lots of fun in 57 and in later years. Was red cable always used as negative on a positive system? Had to be. Wait a sec. Model T's were negative ground?? But then Model A s were not, Ford had positive ground till '56? Okay time to lay down for a while. Keep seeing that RED cable = POS. Aargh!

 

Well, it doesn't matter which way the battery is connected for starting the truck.

If the starter engages when the battery is connected, either the starter relay is stuck closed, or something is causing the starter relay to close. Like the starter button.

 

POS made off shore starter solenoid !! Al it was good for is the metric fasteners .The rest made it in the trash .Installed the old one & all is well .


Turned battery around . What a difference ! Dumb a$$ me .


So the excitement lasted for a few minutes . Turned key on , pushed starter button NOTHING .


But the head lights work ( dim & bright ) dash lights work , cigar lighter works , and of course the Magic Air heater is awesome .
While removing starter button to make sure contacts were secure a tab made contact /w the dash resulting in some minor sparkage . As I recall engaging the button makes the starter contact .Correct ?




Also no tail light or brake lights '. Maybe the pressure switch for brakes but am sure the tail lights are wired correctly . Will double check wed. Thanks for all the help so far . Would sure like to be able to drive it back to the garage .Dragging it around w/ the tow bar is getting old . Also getting harder to push now that it is getting heavier w/ parts .

 

Sorry you're in such a frustrating position. Make sure of your grounds. You may have combined some negative and positive grounds in your wiring. Sounds like the starter isn't grounding. Good luck, my 2cts

 

Glad to see you have things going your way. Its the little things that drains our brain.

 

The starter button on a 52 has power from the Always-Hot side of the circuit breakers on one lead, and the other goes to the small terminal on the solenoid. You can make it so the button gets power from the ignition switch, but the stock harnesses aren't set up that way. I'm sure you are stock?

Edit: Make sure your "old" solenoid is a 52, and not a 48-51. Try grounding the small terminal; if it cranks (you did remember to put it in neutral, right?!) you have the old style. If you jump from the battery to the small terminal and it cranks, it's a 52.

 

Your taillights should have nothing to do with your brake light switch. Again, check your grounds.