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1989 F250, 7.3 IDI.. QUESTIONS!!!!

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Old 02-13-2015, 08:17 PM
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1989 F250, 7.3 IDI.. QUESTIONS!!!!

So, I just purchased a '89 F250 Auto 2WD, XLT Lariat 7.3 IDI, with a Banks Power Pack from a lifelong friend.
Whole truck and engine has 140K miles on it, the trans has maybe 10K. BUT, it's not a Ford trans. He said it came from Chrysler or something like that and had it installed at the Freightliner Dealer. It's perfect, shifts good and pulls great!! I'll see if I can find some data on it soon and report back. My buddy is like the 3rd owner, and the truck is a but faded and but the overall condition of the truck and interior is 8/10. But, a few things are weird and I have some questions. It's not my first diesel I've owned every diesel to be put in a Ford (non-commercial) truck; 6.9, 7.3, 6.0, and 6.4, just not the 6.7 yet. So, I know the principles of Diesel care.
And oh yeah... I only paid $2,500 for it.

Both fuel tanks are good, but the fuel gauge won't work on either tank. ??? Any ideas, where Can I start?? The tank selector does work.

I need a return line kit.. Whats the best?

Batteries are Okay, but something discharges them while driving it. ???

What's the best diesel fuel additive? Non-cold weather.

The water temp gauge isn't working....???

Does the Banks add-on, really improve anything? If so, what?

I'm in the West Ga area, USA.
 
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:44 AM
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welcome to FTE. banks power pack. exhaust, or a turbo and exhaust?
if it is just the exhaust, it lets it breath a little better. if a turbo, it makes breath a lot better.

for the non working fuel and temp gauges, it could be either bad gauges, bad sending units, or a disconnected wire between the sender and the gauge.
return line kit i believe the go to guys are Oregon diesel, but i will let the others chime in on that one.
for batteries you want the largest group 65 you can get. chevk the alternator when the engine is off and cold by touching it. if the case is warm, one of the diodes is bad and causing a parasitic draw discharging the battery.
if it is cold, start the engine and chack voltage at battery. you should see 13.5 to 14.5 volts. of not you may have a bad alternator.

interesting story on the trans, try to find out what it actually is.
 
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Old 02-21-2015, 07:00 PM
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Its just the exhaust. I believe the alternator is bad. Gonna look into a rebuild on it.
Originally Posted by tjc transport
welcome to FTE. banks power pack. exhaust, or a turbo and exhaust?
if it is just the exhaust, it lets it breath a little better. if a turbo, it makes breath a lot better.

for the non working fuel and temp gauges, it could be either bad gauges, bad sending units, or a disconnected wire between the sender and the gauge.
return line kit i believe the go to guys are Oregon diesel, but i will let the others chime in on that one.
for batteries you want the largest group 65 you can get. chevk the alternator when the engine is off and cold by touching it. if the case is warm, one of the diodes is bad and causing a parasitic draw discharging the battery.
if it is cold, start the engine and chack voltage at battery. you should see 13.5 to 14.5 volts. of not you may have a bad alternator.

interesting story on the trans, try to find out what it actually is.
 
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Old 02-21-2015, 08:29 PM
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The stock alternator is externally regulated; the regulator may be at fault too.
It's a lot cheaper to replace. Also, make sure you have a good ground wire between the Battery -, Alternator case and Regulator case. Bad grounding == no charge/poor charge conditions.

Everyone hates the Gen 1 alternator we have stock, but as long as you have a good regulator and good grounding, it charges just fine.

If you have to replace the alternator, though... I'd look into a 3G swap. Because why pay roughly the same amount for an inferior product?
 
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