Good evening enthusiasts!
I apologize in advance for this soon to be lengthy post. I only do as to provide you with the most descriptive details. As you can see by my signature I have a 90 f-150 302. I have been away for quite some time and I only recently was able to do some work. I fixed my initial no running issue I once had with a dizzy and ECU swap from a parts truck I acquired. Before I put those parts in the truck would NOT start at all. It would crank but not turn over, replaced those parts and cranked over on the very first turn of the key. I do believe that I need to dial my timing down to perfect but as for now it runs a little rough but nothing that would prevent me from driving it…until we get to the issue and the reason for this post. When I first cranked it after replacing those parts the truck was in my garage where I did the work. This morning I took it out for a spin to get it warmed up to operating temp and give her a go of things since it has sit for a while 6 months at least. Well when I back it out and let it idle for a while things were running fine. I took it around the block and parked it in my driveway to check fluids and such. I went to re-crank after about and hr or so to take a trip to the gas station to fill it up. Well it idled roughly after I started it and then eventually died. Re-cranked immediately. Every time is dies I can restart immediately with no issues. It will idle slightly rough but I’m chalking that up to the possible timing issue, but then eventually die. After doing some research I went back out and did some trouble shooting. I turn the key it fires right up like I said I’m sitting in the truck and go to put it in reverse OR turn the wheel either way and it immediately dies. Restarts no issue, my tumbler is gummy which I’ve heard is common when it gets cold and ladies and gentlemen it’s a whopping ZERO here right now. The tumbler has a lot of play in it and almost like the sequence is out ACC/RUN/START ETC…..I’m no mechanic but it’s as if the ignition control is not sending the correct signal to the IAC I have two of those as well and swapped them out and the issue didn’t get any better. I did take my key off my key chain because I heard that the keys may wear those cylinders down. I’m getting ready to go inspect the ignition rod and will post any new information.
Any thought? Ideas?

You guys are great and love bouncing ideas off you folks!!

 

inspect the ignition switch. it is on top of the column, in the area above the brake pedal.
what i do is remove the two lower dash covers, then loosen the steering column from the dash and let it down to rest on the seat.
if you have an automatic trans, you will need to disconnect the shift indicator first, otherwise you will break it, and a replacement is around $65 these days.
this allows you to look in along the top of the column to access the switch.
the switch is a two part deal. the top is plastic, the bottom is aluminum.
what happen is over time the plastic portion separates from the aluminum portion causing the symptoms you are describing.
i bet when you look in there you are going to see the switch separated a little bit on one side.
here is a picture of the switch. if it separates, you will know just be looking at it.:

 

Insp the ignition control module. looks seated and firmly in place.

replaced the key tumbler

cleaned the IAC

Insp the ignition control rod, looks solid no breaks

i noticed today that its not just when i turn the wheel it dies, but when i put it in reverse, additionally it will die or lower the RPMS if the lights are turned on or the heater or anything that's considered an accessory

After reading, it looks like something is stealing power when an additional load is applied to the engine. I discovered that you cant adjust the idle because that's all done through the ECU. The IAC also came up a lot in the forums, i have two and have swapped both out. A friend of mine suggested that maybe the alternator is the issue. As with the IAC i have another one that i can replace it with to see if it creates any difference.

any additional input??



on a side note i became a pro at removing the steering column and everything that's involved with that

 

oh well, at least you know the ignition circuit is all good.
what is the voltage at the battery with engine off and engine running?
i wonder if the alternator is taking a dive and not supplying enough power to keep up with loads?

 

When I recharged it the other day after the charger indicated it was done it read right around 12.5-12.8....

I haven't checked it with the engine running. That's the first thing I'll do tomorrow. I'll re check the volts with it off and than check with the engine running.....I know I can get the alternator checked at orielys bit I may just pull it off the parts truck to see if I have any effect...I'm wondering if since I put a different PCM and dizzy in if it may of jacked up the sync with something....like I said I haven't gotten the timing dialed in but from an eat shot it sounds good...not too high and not to low.....but I know that doesn't mean a whole lot...

 

12.5 engine off is fine. you want to see over 13.5 running.

 

Was reading the Chiltons and came across testing the alternator. just like you mentioned, measuring the volts at the battery with engine @ 1500 RPM, should be an increase of .5 but no more than 2.5 that's the NO LOAD test. than add a load... lights etc and increase RPMS to 2k should increase by .5v if it doesn't than the charging system is malfunctioning. a co worker of mine suggested something may be grounding out causing the stalls etc. with that said is there any device or a way to check the wiring system for said short? there's got to be about 10 miles of wiring under that hood. here in a few im going to run this test depending on how much time i have i may even swap out alternators if i have time.