Greetings FE and thanks for such a wonderful reference to my new world of everything 1975 Ford F250 FE360 4 speed manual trans Highboy.

Our newly acquired truck was originally purchased by my uncle in Wyoming. The truck has mainly been used as a hunting/boating truck for the last 40 years with my uncle using oil company trucks as daily drivers. The truck has about 80k original miles and has never left the state of Wyoming. Now that the hunting/boating days are over and after seeing my 3 year old son have quite a crush on the truck, my uncle has graciously sold us the truck for $5 as long as my son's name is on the title. And now, here I am constantly scouring this forum for answers to most of my questions. The questions I haven't found answers to I figured I would post in my first official post as an FE member. Thanks in advance for any advice you many have and thanks again for the resource!

1. With 40 years of sitting in the Wyoming weather, the plastic shield that protects the instrument panels have been sun damage. From what I've seen, there is no way to replace the plastic shield without replacing the whole instrument panel. Would like to preserve the current panel with the actual miles recorded. Any tricks to preserve/replace the plastic to that the instruments are visible again?

2. I live about 50 miles north of Seattle and will be shipping the truck out here. I figure it would be cheapest/most efficient to drive the truck up to Billings, Montana to get it shipped via car transport. Straight shot on I90 west from Billings to Seattle. Does anyone have any tips on shipping services in this region of the US? The truck doesn't need to be covered unless I decide to get it painted in Montana before shipping.

3. The truck will get an extensive tune-up, 4bbl carburetor/manifold, new 1990's factory rims/tires (currently has split rims), minimal body work and new paint. Does anyone have a trusted shop I can take the truck to in the Seattle north to Bellingham area that focuses on old Ford trucks like this? I could get the work done in Billings, Montana (no sales tax!) then shipped after it's completed too.

Thanks!

 

Nice pic of your truck. But we also would like one of your
instrument panel. It's hard for us to say what can be done
to repair it without seeing it. Short of replacing it.
I have cut the clear lens out with a dremel tool, than
polished it and re installed with airplane glue with good
results I have. This on the model that is glued in. Yours
unbolts. I would still try and polish it before I replaced it.
But that is just me.

 

Welcome to FTE

Which part are you calling a plastic shield?

Left: Instrument panel / Right: Back side of instrument cluster, 10880 is the lens, replaceable by itself.

If this is what you're referring to:

D3TZ-10880-A .. Instrument Cluster Lens / Reproduced & Available NOS

Applications: 1973/79 F100/350 - 1975/91 Econoline - 1978/79 Bronco.

HAVEN FORD in Haven KS has 1 = 620-465-2252.

NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 1 = 972-937-2201.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 1,434 = 800-476-9653.

 

I just changed mine here a cpl months ago. Mine had metal pins that held it onto the main bezel panel, push em up from the backside and then when you change the face plate, push em back down.

 

Wow, thanks NumberDummy for the part number and exploded views of the instrument panel and instrument assembly! I'll be ordering DT3Z-10880-A from the retailers you provided. Much appreciated!

Also, thanks to Baer for installation advice. Artic y block, I am currently away from the truck, but will be sure to include pictures along with posts as much as I can in the future. I myself am also an avid Dremeler and was thinking of the same idea incase the instrument cluster lens was not replaceable.

As for the other two questions, shortly after submitted the post, I realized that perhaps they probably belong in the regional forums. Newbie not only to the truck, but the truck forum as well.

Thanks fellas!

 

X 2 on yes the plastic cover can be replaced. To get to the instrument cluster you have to remove the dash bezel.

Remove the 5 screws first. Far left between the headlight/wiper *****, there are 2 screws, 1 between the *****, and 1 above it, going in straight up. Moving right there are 2 more screws. 1 in the middle, 1 far right, both pointing straight up. Section heater control there is 1 screw pointing straight up.

Heater controls are in behind the dash plastic, they stay where they are, but you might slide/squeeze the levers a little, to get them out of way to prevent them from hooking on the dash bezel.

To remove the wiper **** it has a release clip on its shaft that you can put pressure on with small flat tip screwdriver in the tiny slot, press and release and slide the **** off.

Radio may be behind or in front the dash bezel, depending on how previous owner (P.O.) installed it. If its factory or shaft style, pull the ***** off the radio and you will see shallow nuts on the shafts. Clean the shaft threads with electrical cleaner and small brush, because the shafts will strip VERY easily, use a deep set socket on them. Once the nuts are removed, there should be a plastic or metal radio plate to remove. Behind that are 2 more screws holding dash bezel to a metal bracket. But not always…

Okay, under the 3 sections that you see the gauges in, under the middle one there is a plastic tab from the dash bezel that is tucked behind the metal part of the dash. You can see the metal cutout area for it, when the headlight ****/shaft is pulled out or removed all together you can pull up on the plastic dash bezel to get the plastic tab out of the slot.

Disconnect the battery and pull out the HEADLIGHT ****/shaft. With all screws out of dash and radio loose, you should be able to tilt it forward and see the headlight switch directly behind where the headlight **** is. So with the shaft out then you tilt the plastic dash bezel forward to get your hand above the switch and feel for a metal button to press and hold to release the headlight shaft from the headlight switch. **** and shaft will slide out as one piece with the button held down.

I normally start all this by reaching up under the dash and remove the headlight **** and shaft 1st.

Cluster assembly is mounted with 4 screws, once they are out, CAREFULLY pull fwd on the assembly, just a little. You need it fwd just enough to get a hand on the speedo cable white plastic connector. If you can not get it fwd enough, push yourself some slack in the cable from the eng compartment.

Then using you hand or a small pair of pliers CAREFULLY squeeze the white clip till the cable comes out of the cluster (the white clip will come with it). DO NOT PRY on the clip it, will break and then you have another issue.

Squeeze the side of the main electrical connector and it should release. The like others have said pop out the rivet looking pins (needle nose works great) and remove the cover. Getting new rivet pins is the best, cause the old ones have a tendency to break right on the ends anyway.

 

Wyoming:

Good lookin' truck - can't wait to see it gone over! Keep us posted..........

 

Lets see some more pic's. With some touch up paint and buffing
that old gal should clean right up.