If you do not seal bottom of Oak and it gets wet. It will warp.
An Old woodworker.

 

Yes, all of 6 sides of the wood have been sealed with epoxy including the drilled holes. As far as the varnished finish... it isn't really necessary for the bottom since it will not see any UV light. But it just feels right to finish it. Ya know?

 

Could you list the name of the products you used, that is absolutely beautiful.

 

SKU: West System Epoxy Prepackaged Kits

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SKU: Z-Spar 2067
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$215 total in materials.

The tint was just minwax water based stuff you can pick up at your local hardware store, just make sure you get the water based stuff as the epoxy will not work very well over some oil based "stains"

 

Thanks for that info, can you apply the varnish directly to the epoxy or do you need to scuff the surface before applying?

 

You definitely need to sand between. Both to flatten the epoxy and so the varnish has something to grip. But the epoxy, you can apply all three coats in one day, so you save a bit of time there, vs. building up 4-5 base coats of varnish on unsealed wood.

Here is the process I am using
Process:
1) red oak purchased from midwest early ford
2) sanded 120 then 220 with orbital sander
3) water based tint on top and bottom (minwax water based)
4) 3 coats of west system epoxy on the bottom and sides, allow to cure 2 days
5) sanded sides/ends, removed runs and touched up tint
6) 3 coats of west system epoxy on top and sides/ends, allow to cure 2 days
7) touch up any bubbles and low spots with epoxy and allow to cure
8) sand epoxy flat with 120 and then 220 on orbital sander
9) wet sand by hand with 220 or 400
10) clean with acetone wipe down and then tack
11) 2 coats of Petit 2067 varnish on the bottom between coats - 400 grit wet sand followed by wipe down with mineral spirits and tack

12) final will be 3 coats of Petit 2067 varnish on the top and sides with 400 grit wet sand. After the last coat I will sand the top visible surface with 800 then 2000 and then polish with automotive polish and wax.

all told 70-80 hrs of work.

 

Your bedwood looks beautiful. Great job.

 

Thanks, I am done with the final coat. Now I just have one last cut and buff to make it look as good as it can.

 

Ryan, I would be afraid that anything placed into the bed would slide around like mercury on a lab bench top. Wow that looks good so far.
I mentioned it to you before...may I mail you my raw oak boards if you have a spare 80 hours or so?

Tom

.

 

Haha thanks. Unfortunately with our recent addition to the family, it took me several months to find enough free time to get these done. I imagine you could find a place that can finish them cheaper and faster than I could. But appreciate the compliment!

 

Beautiful stain work. Really awesome.

 

I'd say a whole lotta this stuff because the results show it well:

 

I guess I'll need to get me some of that and some rebuilt elbows

 

Final cut and buff. Couple more boards to go.

Sure does look better than rubbing in some tung oil doodoo and the epoxy should last quite a bit longer.

I am going to be afraid to use the bed... thinking of getting a large rubber mat.

 

Nice work look like you could eat off of it... you may need to do some tailgating.