So I am going to remove cover and check timing set, it does seem to have some play and rather than taking it to someone I just assume learn myself. Before I remove everything do I need to have everything lined up i.e. #1 tdc?

 

It is best to have it at TDC. Makes reinstalling it easier.

 

Just noticed that when I turn crank clockwise with breaker bar it seems to have some slack but when I turn it counter clockwise it loosens the nut completely.....shouldn't I need an impact gun to loosen that nut?

 

No, it's only torqued to 95 lb-ft.

 

Thank you.

 

What you can do, is torque it higher so that it won't loosen, or remove the bolt, use high strength loc-tite on the threads, and re install.

 

Thank you (351Cleveland C4) with the amount of slack or play there is as I turn crank and according to all the input here that is why it keeps jumping time so I believe the timing chain needs to be replaced, that's what I'm starting today... first time for everything.

 

Oreillys carries cloyes timing sets for a decent price.

Or for a bit more money, you can buy a set that can advance or retard cam to your liking. I would opt to advance it if I went this route.

 

Bud take all the plugs out so it will turn over easier.
Take the compression out of the equation and it will
help to turn it the other way. Than the bolt shouldn't
come loose. But with the breaker bar on the bolt get
it as tight as you can till the engine turns. Than smack
it a few licks with a BFH. That should set it so with the
plugs out it will turn that way. It works for me.

 

There's probably a YouTube video on this even. That's one angle, add in discussion forum archives like FTE and others, a manual or two, you'll be a halfway pro before you even start. Avoiding mistakes is half the battle, maybe more.

 

Gees if your not installing a RV or a even new cam, I'd just line it up in the middle of the crank sprocket setting that has the adjustable lower gear that you can advance or retard. I'd choose the stock timing setting which would be "0"

If you still have a problem you'd blame the trouble on advancing to gear and may pull it back down to reset back to '0' with a double roller chain.

Do not buy a OEM type timing set as those were made with a smog days in mine an set oem were retarted.

I'd say don't be doing stuff your don't know will help you or cause you timing issues and ping running low octane gas.

This is ok for 351-c4 as he like pulling things apart to seeing what makes them tick.

An then comes here an ask for help when his vehicle will only runs on
3 wheels & not 4, Or something like that!

Orich

 

Orich has a point, fix the problem first before modifications start.

 

Set that bad boy to TDC #1 cylinder on COMPRESSION stroke. With all the plugs out like Arctic said you can spin it easy. Turn the engine over with your thumb on the hole for #1 cyl. When you feel pressure pushing on your thumb it's coming up to TDC on that compression stroke. Now keep spinning the crank until the timing mark is at "o" (TDC). With it set here the Marks on the old timing gears will prolly not be lined up like they should be because we think the chain has slipped. If this is true, spin the cam and it's gear until the gear's line up marks do indeed line up. Cam gear's mark at the 6 o'clock position and the crank gear's position at 12 o'clock. Thus the two marks are facing each other. In a straight line. This straight line starts at the center of the cam gear's bolt, through the cam gear's mark, through the crank gear's mark, to the center of the crank. Now take the old gears and chain off and put on the new parts. Oil 'em down good with fresh engine oil so they have some on 'em on initial start-up.

 

thanks for the input....how do I remove crank spacer? I removed key way but that sob won't budge.

 

The key is the only thing in it's way to slid off. I guess you have removed the timing cover by now. I've never had any real problem remove the crank spacer.

But have heard about other having them. May be driving a good sharp wedge between the spacer & the oil shield. Put some type the lube or wd-40 on the crank shaft snout tip it with a hammer lightly trying to work the lube inside to help free it.

If that do it then try using a crow bar behind the crank gear sprocket to get it to move.

Orich