impacted the 1st wheel on, and lasted about a month. Bought a "needed rebuild" turbo from member here. Received it and the XBP wheel, just to find out, that the XBP wheels' threads, sucked. Had to pretty much make my own threads for it, for the wheel to install correctly....moral here, to me anyhow, is..remove turbo and install wheel that way..no impact, no jamming things in on exhaust side...etc.

 

I hope the people who keep parroting that whole, "Just use an impact to change the compressor wheel. I've never heard of any problems with it" mantra read and remember that post ^ ^ ^.

 

Brett, I have a couple of extra Vitron O-rings from my turbo reinstall, as I didn't remove the pedestal. They are yours, if you want them.

Mark

 

Yeah, Mark. I think I'll only need the upper 2 ones. Didn't plan on removing the pedestal unless you had the lower ones too, and I'd only take it off since it's only 4 bolts and I'll be cleaning everything. So if you have the upper 2 pm me and I'll take them.

Thanks, buddy.

 

I jammed a screwdriver with duct tape on it in the exhaust side and tightened the compressor wheel by hand with a thick leather glove, no socket or impact.

 

Just to let you know, the upper and lower orings are the same size.

 

But the 2 upper differ in size, so you'd have to have 1 of each, right?

 

Correct.

Mark

 

BTW, in case anyone cares, the wheel torque spec in Clay's turbo rebuild instructions is 10ft/lbs, the my stock one was on with way less than that. I certainly couldn't achieve 10ft/lbs bare handed, and couldn't modulate my 1/2" impact down to that. Just sayin'...

Mark

 

Since I just reinstalled my turbo today, I thought I'd share a couple of pics of those O-rings. Here they are held in place with a little Vaseline:


The front one rarely moves, but that back one can move really easily. I find wrestling the turbo into place a real pain, and am paranoid about the rings moving. I spent forever using my Samsung Note III inspection camera to prove to myself the rings were still in place. Here's best pic I got, barely showing the back ring in place:



Mark

 

I should've clarified it better. 4 orings, 2 different sizes. The top ones fit in the bottom ones and vise versa.

 

lol...i pulled the "thinking man" pose there, for a second. Wondering, if they WERE all different, and i just so, got lucky with my instal..HAHA

 

yeah, if you got that kind of luck then you need to go buy a few lottery tickets...lol. I know I sure don't.

 

That's how I removed the OE wheel too. Except the screwdriver I used was too thin, and it slid out to the fragile end of the fin and bent it. So it turned out to be a $$ method for me.



The new wheel will be tightened by normal operation, so no need to torque it on there. Hand tight is fine.

 

So, for those that are looking for the best and safest method (least likely to cause damage) to install a compressor wheel what should be done.

1. Spin off and on the compressor wheel with an impact wrench (this is not the right way, but wanted to be fair)?

2. Put vice grips on the exhaust side of the shaft and use a wrench to remove/install the compressor wheel to 10 ft/lbs?

3. Use a screwdriver to hold the exhaust side wheel in place with a cushion around it and remove/install the compressor wheel to 10 ft/lbs?

4. Another method yet to be discussed in this thread?