Engine warm-up
#1
#2
Ideally there would be a garage for every truck or at least, a cover. But as far as the engine is concerned long enough for the engine to drop off high idle and get oil circulating, maybe a few minutes. An engine will warm up much quicker under load. The key though, is to drive gently for the first few miles.
Remember brakes and P/S and gearbox lubricants and everything else is thick and sludgy. If it's real cold - well below zero, maybe about ten minutes or longer. Make sure you have a quality thermostat installed. The idea is to get the engine to normal operating temperature quickly. It's a good time to clear off all the windows of snow and ice and let things warm up a little more than usual. You might want to lubricate the door locks, and wipe down the rubber door insulation w/ silicone. Your truck will be a little ornery at first being left outside like that.
Remember brakes and P/S and gearbox lubricants and everything else is thick and sludgy. If it's real cold - well below zero, maybe about ten minutes or longer. Make sure you have a quality thermostat installed. The idea is to get the engine to normal operating temperature quickly. It's a good time to clear off all the windows of snow and ice and let things warm up a little more than usual. You might want to lubricate the door locks, and wipe down the rubber door insulation w/ silicone. Your truck will be a little ornery at first being left outside like that.
#3
What motor do you have? My truck for instants has a 292 with a 2 barrel carb.
I push the pedal once on cold start turn key and it fires up. The RPM is high while it warms up, I then hit accelerator once quickly, if it idles down then I know it's warming up if it remains high I wait a little longer.
It depends on how your engine is set up. I don't have a manual choke so I didn't give any answers on that. My truck is tuned and timed correctly so I don't have any issues.
I push the pedal once on cold start turn key and it fires up. The RPM is high while it warms up, I then hit accelerator once quickly, if it idles down then I know it's warming up if it remains high I wait a little longer.
It depends on how your engine is set up. I don't have a manual choke so I didn't give any answers on that. My truck is tuned and timed correctly so I don't have any issues.
#5
#6
Do you have a manual choke or an automatic choke? My 390 has a manual choke. I let it warm up a couple of minutes at around 1000 - 1200 rpms then make sure the engine will run smoothly on the choke setting as I drive off. I push the choke control in gradually as I get up to normal temperature on the gauge. If the engine will idle satisfactorily, you don't need the choke.
#7
Bert, I think When the last time it was driven also comes into play, also. If you parked it last night, I'd give it a few moments, a couple weeks or longer a couple minutes. Start out easy for a couple miles before hard mashing of the gas.
Most everyone that I know gets in their newer vehicle and takes off. The difference is computer compensation, both still have spark plugs.
I'd say a warm up doesn't hurt, does it really help??? Good question.
John
Most everyone that I know gets in their newer vehicle and takes off. The difference is computer compensation, both still have spark plugs.
I'd say a warm up doesn't hurt, does it really help??? Good question.
John
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#8
#10
Do you have a manual choke or an automatic choke? My 390 has a manual choke. I let it warm up a couple of minutes at around 1000 - 1200 rpms then make sure the engine will run smoothly on the choke setting as I drive off. I push the choke control in gradually as I get up to normal temperature on the gauge. If the engine will idle satisfactorily, you don't need the choke.
#11
What I don't know is whether a good multi-weight synthetic oil does the same for my old truck as it does for a modern EFI car. I still give it a minute or two to warm up, mostly out of habit. Plus, it's a little embarrassing to sit at a red light with the engine roaring away at high idle.
Depends entirely on the price of gas, to me. When it was up near $5/gallon, I wanted every ounce providing forward momentum.
~Steve
#12
Something like 90% of internal engine wear happens during warm up so the less stress you put on a cold engine the better. But it doesn't hurt anything to drive off with a basically cold engine if you aren't mashing the gas. I lived in Alaska 16 years and owned a 72 F250 with a 300-6 the whole time. I would start it, let the oil pressure come up good and slide it into gear without touching the gas. I would get into 3rd still without touching the gas and by the time I got to the end of my 1/4 mile drive I could pull onto the highway and drive normal with good heat coming out. The truck still sits where I left it in 2001 with 194,000 on it and 75,000 on a rebuild, ran like a champ when I parked it.
#13
Lots of people jump in and take off but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. In extreme cold (not Arizona) a warmup and a little exercise of the power steering isn't a bad idea. Transmission and differential lubricants will be practically frozen or gelled. Garages are a great invention, even if unheated they will insulate and keep some of the heat from prior day's use.
#14
Lots of people jump in and take off but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. In extreme cold (not Arizona) a warmup and a little exercise of the power steering isn't a bad idea. Transmission and differential lubricants will be practically frozen or gelled. Garages are a great invention, even if unheated they will insulate and keep some of the heat from prior day's use.