abs headliner (again)
#1
abs headliner (again)
Ok, no more putting it off... most everything else is done in my interior and the abs headliner from StockInteriors.com has been sitting around way too long. My question is about the vinyl that overhangs the plastic all around. Do I trim it.. or wrap it around to the back side? I was thinking to maybe trim the sides that are hidden behind the trim and rear window seal, and to wrap the exposed ends.
ABS headliner backside.
ABS headliner backside.
#3
I trimmed mine where the trim and rear window covered the edge and rolled the rest over. Stock interiors said I didn't need the clips. The ABS is too big and will need trimming over the doors. The rolled over edges came loose with contact cement so I'll have to use a more aggressive glue.
Now I'm redoing it because of delamination problems and the black made the cab too dark. I'm thinking of using the clips but putting them on under the vinyl. I didn't use the Velcro included in the kit but will use it this time on the cab support in the middle of the cab roof.
Another problem was the piece over the rear window wanted to move upward and I haven't sorted that out yet.
I'm repainting the truck and moving the gas tank out of the cab and everything is out of the cab now and haven't got to putting stuff back in so I can't give solutions to everything
Now I'm redoing it because of delamination problems and the black made the cab too dark. I'm thinking of using the clips but putting them on under the vinyl. I didn't use the Velcro included in the kit but will use it this time on the cab support in the middle of the cab roof.
Another problem was the piece over the rear window wanted to move upward and I haven't sorted that out yet.
I'm repainting the truck and moving the gas tank out of the cab and everything is out of the cab now and haven't got to putting stuff back in so I can't give solutions to everything
#5
Yea, that's another story... mine is delaminating and it's been sitting inside the house! I'm redoing it with 3m high strength 90. We'll see how that holds up. Oh... and in post #1, note the rear of the main piece.. I had to jb-weld the tabs with fiberglass mesh tape as they both broke while trial fitting.
M
M
#6
Mine is sitting in the spare room, its been inside since I bought it, it is also delaminating. That's why I have not installed it yet.
Do you think the glue will adhere better if we removed the old glue and sanded it with 100 grit to knock the gloss off before regluing it?
I think you need to hit it with a heat gun when making those sharp bends.
Im debating on selling it and buying a cardboard one instead.
Do you think the glue will adhere better if we removed the old glue and sanded it with 100 grit to knock the gloss off before regluing it?
I think you need to hit it with a heat gun when making those sharp bends.
Im debating on selling it and buying a cardboard one instead.
#7
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#8
#9
The delamination on mine was the main piece pretty much in the center. This was after the rolled over edges came loose. I did insulate the cab roof and here in NW Washington it gets very hot.
As a retired carpenter cabinetmaker I have used contact cement and failures are usually from not allowing the cement to fully dry, exceeding the open time or not applying enough pressure when laminating. It takes a lot of heat to cause delamination. It looks to me that not enough cement was applied to the fabric to insure a good bond. On porous surfaces we used to apply a second coat of cement after the first had dried and sealed the surface The adhesive remained on the ABS. Since both the vinyl and ABS are non-porous any volatiles could have been trapped and caused the delamination. All this is a guess so I would welcome any other comments.
As far as installation, the small side pieces are difficult to bend into position and I did use some heat to the back side. It might be a good idea to pre-bend with a strap for a day. I secured the pieces at the door with metal framing screws until the trim went on. The large piece I supported in the center until I could secure it over the doors.
I'm getting close to re-installing my headliner and when I do I'll pass along my methods and results.
As a retired carpenter cabinetmaker I have used contact cement and failures are usually from not allowing the cement to fully dry, exceeding the open time or not applying enough pressure when laminating. It takes a lot of heat to cause delamination. It looks to me that not enough cement was applied to the fabric to insure a good bond. On porous surfaces we used to apply a second coat of cement after the first had dried and sealed the surface The adhesive remained on the ABS. Since both the vinyl and ABS are non-porous any volatiles could have been trapped and caused the delamination. All this is a guess so I would welcome any other comments.
As far as installation, the small side pieces are difficult to bend into position and I did use some heat to the back side. It might be a good idea to pre-bend with a strap for a day. I secured the pieces at the door with metal framing screws until the trim went on. The large piece I supported in the center until I could secure it over the doors.
I'm getting close to re-installing my headliner and when I do I'll pass along my methods and results.
#11
Hot in NW Washington? I live South of Atlanta, heat + humidity.
I lived in Astoria for four years, I don't recall ever seeing 100 degrees.
I used a self adhesive foam insulation that I bought from Lowes for the cab roof, between that and the headliner Im going to put 1-2in of fiberglass insulation. Im hoping that by having no air gap I can keep the backside of the abs from heating up.
The abs has the cutout for an interior light. My light is missing. Is there a correct looking light that doesn't cost an arm and a leg that I can install?
I lived in Astoria for four years, I don't recall ever seeing 100 degrees.
I used a self adhesive foam insulation that I bought from Lowes for the cab roof, between that and the headliner Im going to put 1-2in of fiberglass insulation. Im hoping that by having no air gap I can keep the backside of the abs from heating up.
The abs has the cutout for an interior light. My light is missing. Is there a correct looking light that doesn't cost an arm and a leg that I can install?
#15
I'm using #10 oval head stainless screws. It seems stock the stock screws are between #8 and #10 in size, but #10 works.
I've only got the rear pieces in so far. It worked best for me to remove the vinyl and fit the bare plastic. After the plastic was fitted (trimmed and screwed in), I removed and re-installed with the vinyl re-glued. The original glue is not that good and the vinyl was falling off of the large pieces before I started the install.
I've got the top piece marked and ready to fit, but I ran out of patience this weekend. I marked the screw locations around the outside edges with a pieces of tape and a sharpie. I'll need to pull the abs back a little to see how far in to drill the holes. I'll take a picture so it makes better sense.
For the roof screw locations, I'm doing 3. For the center screw, I just measured back from the front-center and marked the plastic 15-7/8" back. I actually went an inch off center because of the hole in the roof brace.
I've only got the rear pieces in so far. It worked best for me to remove the vinyl and fit the bare plastic. After the plastic was fitted (trimmed and screwed in), I removed and re-installed with the vinyl re-glued. The original glue is not that good and the vinyl was falling off of the large pieces before I started the install.
I've got the top piece marked and ready to fit, but I ran out of patience this weekend. I marked the screw locations around the outside edges with a pieces of tape and a sharpie. I'll need to pull the abs back a little to see how far in to drill the holes. I'll take a picture so it makes better sense.
For the roof screw locations, I'm doing 3. For the center screw, I just measured back from the front-center and marked the plastic 15-7/8" back. I actually went an inch off center because of the hole in the roof brace.