Ya, I'm getting my a$$ kinda kicked on these manifold bolts, and I have the motor on a stand. I have to admit that. On the drivers rear cylinder, the top bolt hole was a total pain. I ended up drilling out to a bigger size. In my process, I drilled up at a slight angle unfortunately, and created a 1/4 inch hole which I'm wondering if its a water jacket, and if I'm screwed. I filled the hole in the back of the head as good as I could and 2/3 of the threaded hole with ford gray silicone, put a helicoil in, and put a bolt in, all covered in ford gray silicone.


Is that a water jacket, and will my "fix" hold or do I need a head?


Not a good morning..

 

Honestly I would have used JB weld .
My cousin used liquid Teflon on his twisted wedges that leaked coolant from a couple of header bolt holes.worked for years...still that way with a new owner...

 

I'm pretty sure some older engines had water pump bolts what went into the water jackets. You had to put non-hardening sealant on the threads like Permatex #2. I'd do that as a safety precaution while the engine is on the stand.

With the threads sealed, you should have a problem if you did get into the water.

 

Aaron, I hear what you are saying about the headers. Been there. Zimm, you are right, some older engines did have water pump holes into the water jackets. I'm just so unfamiliar with the modular motor I wanted to make sure that is a water jacket I hit too. If it is (which I assumed it was that is why I assembled it the way I did, but you know where assumptions can get a guy), I think it will be fine. It's Dad's truck, with only 8x,xxx miles on it.

 

I would dig all the crap out of there. Then re-install the manifolds with thread sealant in the bolt. The water will dead head in the hole. No issues. Many older engines are like that.

And

Lots of guys here on FTE have done exactly what you just did. I think there was a thread 2 weeks ago

 

Thanks man. I really don't want to remove the manifold and dig that gray crap out of there. I don't see why it will matter being in there, it's just sitting in there filling the hole behind the bolt. The bolt and helicoil both have that gray sealant on the threads, so I think I'll be fine. As much of a pain as that hole was the last thing I want to do is remove that bolt that is good and tight.


Thanks again Tylus. Spark plugs today.

 

not sure about now days but in the past the Chevies/GM head bolts were open into the water jackets and not blind holes like on Fords. You used a sealant on the head bolts to insure a seal. No JB Weld required.

 

Same with the old Chrysler heads. Open into water jackets. A little sealant on the threads and no worries. You should be fine.

 

That gray sealant will be fine as long as everything was clean when it was assembled.
If you ever need to do it again, consider buying a grade-8 stud and thread it in place with original recipe JB Weld.. That stuff is some of the strongest and heat resistant epoxy I've ever known.

 

It was clean, so it should be ok. Thanks again guys.

 

The exhaust manifold bolts on the triton dont pass into the water jacket, but they rust and rot out, that's why ford replaced them with stainless. when I was replacing a rotted manifold on a 5.4 I drilled too deep on the number 1 cyl. and hit coolant. I drained the coolant, JB welded in the hole, packed it in as tight as I could and put the stainless stud in. Had no external coolant leak but if the truck sat for more than 3 days that cyl. would fill with coolant and hydrolock the motor. I got it down to a science now 7mm socket, remove COP, remove sparkplug, crank motor, reassemble. Poured more barr's leak and every other brand of magic sealer in the degas bottle. She runs great, loses no coolant, but if she sits for 3 or more days samething, I have to keep it limping along, we are getting rid of a Chevy 6.6 duramax, dump body with a 9ft boss plow first. Nice truck, new black paint if anyone is interested PM me.

 

David, you can probably get by a little longer if you release the pressure from the coolant reservoir when you park the truck.
Another thing you can do is to drain and flush the system with pure water then put in a bottle of ceramic sealant.. Run it to temp a few times, then drain and put antifreeze back in it.. I've done a number of wet sleeved engines with it and it is about as vlose as you can come to a permanent repair. I think KW and Siloo make it.. I have also bought it from Moroso...

 

Nah. you're good , just forget about it.