Is there a certain brand of starters that y'all recommend for a 351w? Is there a certain hp or kw that is desirable? Prices range from $35 to $350. I realize you get what you pay for but I don't want to overpay for something I don't need. I just need a dependable starter for street driving.

Also, my flexplate has 164 teeth. I see that some have 157. Do the starters interchange or do I need to buy one that is specifically for a 164 tooth flexplate?

Thanks.

 

You need the right starter for that flex plate, although I don't know which years/trucks used which flex plate. But, another difference is the traditional starter vs the Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction unit. Ford went to a PMGR starter not too long after our trucks. They are smaller and lighter, and yet they spin the engine faster using less current to do so. That's the way I'll go when I need a new one.

 

I'll be going PMGR when my starter causes the first bit of trouble.

 

All trucks of this era were 164 tooth flexplates/flywheels. Just make sure you get the correct starter for automatic or manual transmission!!

 

My truck was getting impossible to start after it had warmed up. The original Motorcraft starter tested good at the store, but even a replacement NAPA and Autozone unit were returned because they had the same issue- weak to zero start power once heated up.

I replaced the cables with 00 welding cable and things improved a bit, but I still basically had to calculate in a 30 minute cooldown and prayer session anytime I wanted to use the truck.

I've used DB electrical starters on jeeps with great results, so I went ahead and bit the bullet on a mini PMGR starter from Ebay for $70, and that little thing has paid for itself tenfold. I was skeptical at first because the gear housing is about half the size of the OEM unit, but the wiring is more direct (doesn't power from the start solenoid, just remote signals from it), and the power of the torque reduction just cranks so hard and so fast that startups even after sitting for 6 months doesn't require more than a second or two of cranking. Of course it's made in China, but it's just far superior to the OEM technology in all respects.

EDIT:
They're $45 shipped on Ebay now, which is cheaper than I could get a replacement NAPA unit last year.

 

My 460 PMGR starter is from DB as well.
I'm happy with the price and the performance.

Takes the load off the fender mounted relay as well.

Like Eddie said, make sure you get an automatic (long snout) starter if you have a flexplate.

 

ArdWrkmTrk, what the part number/source for the 460 starter you have? My 95 E350 with the 460 has the weak starter heat soak issue and getting worse!

 

http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-1687-75-liter.aspx

The manual is $6 more than the automatic, but I doubt you'll find new anywhere for that price.
They are on Ebay and Amazon with better shipping.

The 1year warranty is no bs either.
I TOLD them my truck ate their starter and they sent a new one anyhow.

 

That is great because I really need a mini starter. I am putting this engine into a 47 truck so clearance will be an issue and I'll need block hugger headers, which means I'll need a smaller starter.

and $45 sounds outstanding.


But do I need to just purchase a starter from a later model pickup with a 351w? Or is there an aftermarket PMGR that is retro fitted for an older one?

I clicked that link and found one for $45 and one for $55 but I just want to make sure that it will work before I buy it.

Here are the ones I found.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-1095-n...ter-89-04.aspx

Or would this one be better:

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-n...5-sfd0001.aspx

 

Unless you have 10:1 compression or higher I doubt you'll need the "racing" starter.
This is not tiny, or clockable, like a Tilton.
It's not $400 either!

The later style PMGR starter is retrofitted by moving the starter cable to the hot side of the fender relay and adding a 12Ga. wire from the relay to the new starter's solenoid.

The 'racing' starter seems to include that wire and a few zip ties...

 

Yeah I don't need the racing starter, haha. I also don't need one that is clockable.

It doesn't necessarily need to be tiny. Just smaller than the original to give clearance.

Here is the one for sale on speedway that is recommended with my headers. It looks identical to the racing one from db electrical. But I cannot find dimensions.

Speedway Small Block Ford Ultra Mini Starter, 1.4 kW, A/T - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop


I would love to save the $100 if it will work.

 

Most all of these come from the same factory (in China)

I'm not going to get into my opinion of Powermaster.
It does seem to have a nice cable included.

I'm sure you have better things to do with $100

 

Ha! exactly my thoughts. thank you for your help.


I am going to order the dbelectrical one and give it a shot. For $100 savings, its definitely worth a try.

 

30 bucks in header wrap will solve the cooked starter problem.

 

Better to wrap the starter in a reflective blanket than to wrap the header.
They mostly want to rot, even in the best conditions.

Or spring for Jet-Hot.

The reason all headers used to be chromed was to keep under hood temps down.