Issue #1)

My truck has apparently gotten to be a connisseour of Serpentine Belts.

I replaced the last one back in August and last night I found where SOMETHING had chewn the front rib (Side of belt facing forwards of the truck) off. I did note though, that while ALL the other pulleys were inline with the rear side of the S. Belt, the Power Steering Pump Pulley however, was, wouldn't you know it, 1 rib further back from the backside of the belt.

Pics to show:

Issue #2)

On my way home from work last night, I noticed the battery hand had dropped out of the NORMAL range...I limped her home.

Upon a bit of troublshooting, I found that on the Starter Solenoid on the P/S fender, the nut was a tad loose, allowing the Eyelets for the Green/Red "exciter wire" to move around a tad. Upon tightening that down solid, the battery gauge rose to stay solidly on the N of NORMAL.

Pushing the clutch in, and revving the engine about 1/2-3/4 throttle, will cause the battery hand to JERKILY shoot up to the R-M of NORMAL.

for some hard #'s with a Multimeter:

Engine idling (Taken at the battery terminals): 11.47-12.05v
Revving the engine up (Taken as same location as before): 13.3-13.8v

Voltage taken at the Exciter wire (Back probed into the plug on the alternator: 2.7-3.5v

And there is GOOD continuity from that point to the lug on the starter solenoid on the P/S fender.

Removing BOTH plugs from the alternator turned up squat. No melted plug, no corrosion, etc.

Any ideas?

(All troubleshooting was with ALL accessories, lights, etc OFF) and after the battery got too low to start the truck, I metered it at 8.4v. that was with the battery completely isolated (Terminals removed).

After jumping the battery, it seems to hold a charge.

 

Check brushes on voltage regulator. Had same problem. Brushes fixed it!

 

I forgot to mention: Alternator is 3 years old, from Advance Auto (Ack!)

 

I'm pretty sure you did the 3G conversion. I did the same but got a used one. I then installed new brushes after they checked it to be good. It was 3-4 years later I had same problem you mentioned. Brushes helped solve my problem. It may be worth the time to just remove it, and check. I assume the alternator is under warranty, so some preventive maintenance wouldn't hurt.

Hope that idea helps.

 

Issue #1, the only thing that will chew up belts is misalignment and it looks like you found it. Not sure why your PS pump does not line up, but I would suspect it has been off at some point and incorrectly assembled.

By, the way, pics to show? they don't show up!

Issue #2 will be a faulty alternator, but your info on the green/red wire does not sound right. This wire will not go to the solenoid, but it will go to the regulator. Again, pics will help.

 

I wanted to do the conversion, but never did. Still have a POS 2G alternator.

As for the #2 issue:

I've narrowed it down to either a bad ground (Had it happen before) or the Green/Red exciter wire isn't getting enough voltage (Less than 3v with Key ON).

Gonna check into it today, since I have more time to deal with it.

 

I pulled the cluster out today and where the Red wire w/ green stripe, crosses the bulb, and turns into the green wire w/ red stripe (Exciter wire) it is showing 11.43v w/ the key ON (And a pretty drained battery.

So it's between that bulb and the alternator.

Tired of dealing with it. It's going to the shop tonight and they might be able to get to it tomorrow. If not, it has to wait til monday.

 

Truck is up and running.

Charging at a HEALTHY 14.32v at the Battery.
The alternator (A reman'd Motorcraft unit) had failed.

Total cost so far:
-$40.00-Diagnosis/Troubleshooting by Bill Harper @ Harper's Garage
-$115.30-Tough One brand 80amp Alternator from Advance Auto (ick!)
----------------------------
$145.30 total, and me installing the "new" Alternator myself (Literally took me 15 minutes TOPS

I was on the right track with the troubleshooting, using my personal knowledge of the truck and mechanical skills; I simply had no actual tester.
Although I'd metered the output voltage at like 8.42v while the truck was running. I simply wasn't sure if it was the Alternator itself; or the Exciter Wire (Known issues for this era Ford Truck) had a short.

Thanks to all that shared input!

 

Glad you got it cured. Sometimes you have to let someone else have a crack at it(even if it cost you a little)just to keep your sanity.

 

My next move was stuff a rag in the filler neck and strike a match....

Woohoo...8,500 posts!

On another note, I've made it a habit to come back and give as much info as I can on what fixed my issues. Major pet peeve on this forum to ask help, get it given and never post what the issue was/ resolution.

 

LOL...I've had a few of them kinda days in my lifetime.