Electrical issues
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: vancouver
Electrical issues
Yesterday my 99 ranger died on me right on the highway. I had noticed that the battery level was slowly dropping as i drove and then it just crapped out on me. I replaced both the battery and the alternator (man that belt is not easy to get back on) and i was able to start it back up. the first couple times it started and then died pretty quick but after a few it started up and ran fine. However my battery level is still reading really low. (bottom 1/4 of the gauge) any ideas what's wrong. it's a v6 4l 4x4 if that helps.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 67
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From: vancouver
update
Ok someone told me that if i start the engine and then disconnect the battery it should keep running. If it doesn't then it's the alternator that's not working. Well i replaced the alternator with a brand new one and when i disconect the battery the engine still dies. It's a brand new alternator so what's up? Have i been mislead on the test? could there be something i missed with the alternator? There was only 3 wires. two on seperate harnesses and one that bolted to the back, and there connected. Did I miss something?
The Pacifier
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,245
Likes: 7
From: Cloverdale, BC
Check the battery, starter, and alternator cables for corrosion. Could be green, could be white. Also check your belt tension. Just because you installed a new alternator doesn't mean the belt is tight. (And no, that isn't a jab at you. It happens sometimes.)
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: vancouver
thanks bigrig! i'll go over all the cables. You're right it could be the belt. That thing is almost impossible to torque back up into place. I thought i had it pretty good but I'll try again. (i need to rplace the belt anyway, starting to look a little cracked) If it was just the belt though wouldn't the engine still run with out the battery as long as there was enough tension to keep the belt moving things around?
The Pacifier
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,245
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From: Cloverdale, BC
Well, I'll share this with you, but don't tell anyone else: 
I re+re'd an alternator in my old B2. Drove to work and back for a couple days, but killed the battery on the third day. So, I go out to pull the alternator again, but I noticed the belt was loose. I then tightened it up properly, jumped it, and never had another charging problem.
See, I didn't tighten the belt the first time. And the belt was real sloppy. I'm surprised it didn't come off by how loose it was, but it was spinning the pulley. Then again, I've seen some "tight" belts that slip too.
I re+re'd an alternator in my old B2. Drove to work and back for a couple days, but killed the battery on the third day. So, I go out to pull the alternator again, but I noticed the belt was loose. I then tightened it up properly, jumped it, and never had another charging problem.
See, I didn't tighten the belt the first time. And the belt was real sloppy. I'm surprised it didn't come off by how loose it was, but it was spinning the pulley. Then again, I've seen some "tight" belts that slip too.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: vancouver
well i'll redo the alternator belt and see what happens. Any tricks for easily getting that lever up nice and high? a longer wrench just doesn't have the clearance in there and man it takes super groundskeeper ***** strength to hold it there while you tighten the other bolt.
The Pacifier
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,245
Likes: 7
From: Cloverdale, BC
You might need help from a buddy. Or get a prybar in there, hold it with one hand, and tighten it with the other. Careful not to crack the housing.
Your belt probably is tight enough. You don't want it so tight that it won't give. That'll cause you more problems like worn bearings. Wait... don't you have a serpentine belt? Because the tensioner should take care of that, as long as it is routed properly.
Just make sure the cables are good.
Your belt probably is tight enough. You don't want it so tight that it won't give. That'll cause you more problems like worn bearings. Wait... don't you have a serpentine belt? Because the tensioner should take care of that, as long as it is routed properly.
Just make sure the cables are good.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Wisconsin
I've noticed on some alternators, power steering pumps, etc. that there is a square slot or opening on the unit that a 1/2" or maybe 3/8" breaker bar will fit to help tighten up thee belts. one hand on the breaker bar, one on the wrench to tighten the bolt. Also, is your pulley tensioner working properly? I believe it has a similar slot on it to release the spring tension on the pulley. I sorry if this doesn't make sense, it's one of those items that it's easier to show than explain.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Why not run this puppy by your favorite autoparts store, like Advance Auto or AutoZone, ect, for a free electrical system check up.
They have a portable machine that can properly load test the battery, alternator & regulator in the vehicle. It will likely sniff out any faulty component.
On the belt tension, my 94 3.8L Taurus & 99 4.0L Ranger have a spring loaded belt tensioner that can be manipulated with a 3/8 breaker bar, such that the back side of the belt will easily slip over the idler pulley.
As the idler pulley runs on the smooth back side of the belt, it has no lip over which the belt must be lifted, like the other belt driven accessories.
So route the belt around all the other pulleys & leave the idler for last.
Insert the breaker bars 3/8 square drive into the 3/8 square hole in the tensioner casting & with one hand, a pull on the breaker bar will give you enough belt slack, to slip it's smooth back side over the smooth idler pulley.
You shouln't need to move any of the belt driven accessories to tighten up the belt, as thats the tensioners job, it keeps the belt tension just right, so you don't over tighten the belt & overload a bearing in one of those accessories.
They have a portable machine that can properly load test the battery, alternator & regulator in the vehicle. It will likely sniff out any faulty component.
On the belt tension, my 94 3.8L Taurus & 99 4.0L Ranger have a spring loaded belt tensioner that can be manipulated with a 3/8 breaker bar, such that the back side of the belt will easily slip over the idler pulley.
As the idler pulley runs on the smooth back side of the belt, it has no lip over which the belt must be lifted, like the other belt driven accessories.
So route the belt around all the other pulleys & leave the idler for last.
Insert the breaker bars 3/8 square drive into the 3/8 square hole in the tensioner casting & with one hand, a pull on the breaker bar will give you enough belt slack, to slip it's smooth back side over the smooth idler pulley.
You shouln't need to move any of the belt driven accessories to tighten up the belt, as thats the tensioners job, it keeps the belt tension just right, so you don't over tighten the belt & overload a bearing in one of those accessories.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: vancouver
yes ok i'm an idiot I finnaly went and bought a hanes manual and relised what i was doing wrong with tightening the belt. I did not relise that you could just pull down the spring tension wheel. I had completly unscrewed it and was trying to hold it in place while i screwed it back in. Once i realised what to do it was super easy. Went over all the electrical wiring, and finally found it. I was missing the alternator fuse. I went through all the fuses to make sure none were blown but i didn't think that one might not be there at all. Oh well got it all fixed and everything works great now. Thanks everyone.