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After spending a few days putting long hours in at work, cleaning the garage, and making piles of stuff to get rid of (downsizing) - I figured I hadn't had enough punishment yet and dove under Stinky.
I put a couple of hours under the driver-side wheel. Why there? A beep in the cab that I don't recognize, what felt like ABS braking in the front (surging), and that was the hot disk after a hard brake. I suspect the front-left sensor is not reading all the time, and the front-right brake was doing the surging. I have no ABS codes, so I will start monitoring all the wheel speed sensors when driving.
I have a front-end shake that comes and goes, and my new tires are showing scallops on both outside edges rather quickly. A shop recently "augmented" the front alignment, allegedly adjusting the toe in. I measured the toe 4 times, and I can't see any difference between the front and back - it could be a minute amount. I do see where they adjusted the turnbuckle, so maybe it's better than before the adjustment. This could be a simple matter of needing more air in the tires, needing to replace my one-year-old shocks, or possibly weak front springs. Other than those possibilities, this may be the time to charge the batteries on my GoPro and set it under the nose to watch for shake.
Taking the wheel and caliper off, I can hear no bearing noise with the mechanic's stethoscope. I shook the holy bajeezus out of all the hardware up there, and Stinky has a tight nose.
Factory rims, 65 PSI - I'll be taking them up to 80 PSI to see if this is a sag thing. In 7000 miles: Installed once (new), balanced three times, and rotated twice. The tires had 1500 miles on this rotation when I spotted the tire wear.
It is absolutely a resonating vibration, but my question is the root cause.
The tire damage is not severe, but it won't take long at this rate.
You may already know this...A good way to measure toe is to jack up the truck and get the tires about an inch off the ground. Get something that resembles a t-square and firmly attach a sharp nail, fine point, or similar object to the end that would be the bottom of the "T". Place the top of the "T" on the ground with the nail facing up. Do this from the front of the front tires. Rotate the tires backwards and lightly score one of the outer treads. Repeat on the other side. Now lower the truck. Roll the truck forwards and backward until it achieves normal stance. Now take a measurement between the lines on the front of the tire and the back of the tire. Make sure the measurements are taken at the exact same height, front and rear. This is a way of verifying the accuracy of the alignment shop(s). This is a lot more accurate than the string method that some use.
Edit: When taking the final measurements from the front and rear of the tire, go to the highest place off of the ground that you can. The higher you get off of the floor the more accurate you will be. The limiting factor will be the underside of the frame or springs...unless you rig a "U" shaped device which is not necessary. The idea is to get as close to hub/axle height as possible.
It does it in neutral. I have a completely different random shake in the powertrain, but I'll get confused if I try to do both at the same time. This is all about the front. The transmission/engine won't f**k up the tires, and the front drive is absolutely not spinning (verified many times).
I know nothing about front ends, except what I'm being forced to learn - since 4 front-end shops can't get this. I'll check the alignment with that method, it makes sense. Damaged tires are an indicator that I'm not being **** on this one, this is as real as it gets. My last set of tires were essentially meatballs at 17K miles and I couldn't take it anymore. Dan V heard the tire noise.
With exception of moral support and input from the forum, I'm on my own on this one.
Things you can't see in the photo: New bearings (I'm looking into the brand), new speed sensor cable and sensor for ABS, new locking hubs, new stub axle, 18 months-2 years on the brakes (everything new), and greased slide pins.
I rotate my tires once a year, about 10,000 miles. 70psi in the front, 45 in the rear. 285/75R-16. Cooper AT/3's. When I rotate them, I am seeing a little cupping on them. 10,000 miles on the rear and they smooth out. 1500 miles is too soon to be seeing any cupping.
...1500 miles is too soon to be seeing any cupping.
They were checked by Scotttahoe and I in Reno, NV with no measurable wear. A drive to Bend, OR (435 miles) showed obvious and measurable wear when I checked the fronts. This happened in 400 miles, not 1500. That's a disaster.
It's been gone through by justdifferentials.com, I didn't use the 4WD, and the front is free from spinning with the tires. Verified multiple times. Mark shaft and something stationary, drive, check, repeat.
After reading all of the above, lest I peruse poorly, which is possible since I still haven't slept in a while, I'd buy a different tire after these are shot. I blame them. But its probably obvious by now if it hasn't 4 legs or 2 wheels it baffles me such as any fine woman inevitably does.
Perhaps these been answered at another time, but has this vibration persisted with different sets of tires? Has there ever been a time where this vibration didn't exist? Have you ever had a set of tires wear normally?
This problem sounds semi-similar to an issue my father was having with his tires. I will give him a call tonight and refresh on the exact situation but reading this thread pulled that up in my mind.
I apologize for having nothing but questions as of now.
After reading all of the above, lest I peruse poorly, which is possible since I still haven't slept in a while, I'd buy a different tire after these are shot. I blame them. But its probably obvious by now if it hasn't 4 legs or 2 wheels it baffles me such as any fine woman inevitably does.
That does bring to mind, what brand and tread tire do you have?
12-08-2014, 07:20 AM
