Battery Relocation
#1
Battery Relocation
As promised, here is the thread for my battery relocation project.
I used a trunk style relocation kit as a source for the cables. I picked it up on ebay cheaper than buying bulk cable.
I got the weld on tray from summit.
First time with my new MIG, don't laugh at my booger welds, lol!
I removed the solenoid, and mega fuse, and relocated them to the space between the inner fender and fender liner. No voltage regulator due to 3G alternator.
I also added a headlight relay kit and mounted the relays there also.
Once the components were mounted, I cut the cable and soldered and crimped lugs on them. The only problem I've encountered is that the stock battery is too tall for the new location. I'm considering an AGM battery, or going with a conventional battery with side posts. I test fired it with the stock battery sitting on the ground and all is well.
I used a trunk style relocation kit as a source for the cables. I picked it up on ebay cheaper than buying bulk cable.
I got the weld on tray from summit.
First time with my new MIG, don't laugh at my booger welds, lol!
I removed the solenoid, and mega fuse, and relocated them to the space between the inner fender and fender liner. No voltage regulator due to 3G alternator.
I also added a headlight relay kit and mounted the relays there also.
Once the components were mounted, I cut the cable and soldered and crimped lugs on them. The only problem I've encountered is that the stock battery is too tall for the new location. I'm considering an AGM battery, or going with a conventional battery with side posts. I test fired it with the stock battery sitting on the ground and all is well.
#4
Nice job, what's up with the copper heater lines, very interesting. If you are cleaning it up you might as well trash can the evap/emissions filter.
AGM $$$ so I hear. You only learn to weld by welding, hard to get the heat right with a thick frame and thin battery bracket material.
With that open spot its now a nice place to put another ammo can/tool box...yes I know that defeats your purpose of cleaning up under the hood.
AGM $$$ so I hear. You only learn to weld by welding, hard to get the heat right with a thick frame and thin battery bracket material.
With that open spot its now a nice place to put another ammo can/tool box...yes I know that defeats your purpose of cleaning up under the hood.
#5
Nice job, what's up with the copper heater lines, very interesting. If you are cleaning it up you might as well trash can the evap/emissions filter.
AGM $$$ so I hear. You only learn to weld by welding, hard to get the heat right with a thick frame and thin battery bracket material.
With that open spot its now a nice place to put another ammo can/tool box...yes I know that defeats your purpose of cleaning up under the hood.
AGM $$$ so I hear. You only learn to weld by welding, hard to get the heat right with a thick frame and thin battery bracket material.
With that open spot its now a nice place to put another ammo can/tool box...yes I know that defeats your purpose of cleaning up under the hood.
The copper tubing works but is detractive from what seems to be an otherwise clean and detailed engine.. If I saw that at a car show or at a Sonic drive-in, I'd wonder what over Home Depot-sourced repairs lurk underneath... bailing wire in place of cotter pins? Roofing tar for Dynamat/Fatmat? Wire nuts holding the electrical system together?
#6
#7
Join Date: Sep 2014
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#8
Do you ever plan to drive in rain , mud, snow or road splash in salt treated road ways? I would not like to have an electrical problem on the road late at night and have to get under it to do repairs . I would keep towing service and hope i could call for help. But all that said , it's your truck so do it your way. I'm just and old 73 year old cranky guy that likes things a little more easy. It looks good and clean though.
#11
HIO - do you mean I shouldn't use chain-link fence pipe for my exhaust either?
The truck isn't a DD, never leaves the city limits, and is put away in the winter. I've had the copper lines for a couple years now with no trouble. Just wanted something different, but they are overdue for a detailing. My goal was to rid the bay of all plastic and rubber, or at least hide it. There are rubber transitions at the firewall where any flex would occur. Also the 300 is naturally a smooth running engine.
The truck isn't a DD, never leaves the city limits, and is put away in the winter. I've had the copper lines for a couple years now with no trouble. Just wanted something different, but they are overdue for a detailing. My goal was to rid the bay of all plastic and rubber, or at least hide it. There are rubber transitions at the firewall where any flex would occur. Also the 300 is naturally a smooth running engine.
#14
A detail I just noticed is that the merge downpipe of the exhaust manifolds should be more of a Y instead of a T - spent gasses aren't very efficient at making a 90° turn.