Originally Posted by allhuntalltime

The truck was stolen from my driveway under the security lights in the only gated community in the county I live in. It was found setting and running the next day one county over in front of a house where the police said they left my truck and stole another that had as much tools on it as mine (easist thing to sell at a pawn shop is tools). Im afraid I would get lazy and not turn a kill switch off from a fuse off. Thats is why I need a wiring diagram for the starter circuit. I would like to put another switch in place when I turn the key to the start position it would put fire to this hidden switch I could hit that switch the truck would start and shut off with the key. I would like to do this under dash. Thanks for your thoughts and replies several good ideas just not the direction I would like go in. Again Thank you all.

Originally Posted by whitetmw

Used to do them all the time.

1. Use a 12 VDC Automotive 5-Pin Relay SPDT 30/40A Bosch Type

Wire as follows:

Cut the Load Side of Fuse #30 and connect it to #30. Attach the new load side to pin #87 on the relay.

Tap the Brake Pedal Switch Wire (Green w/ Red Tracer on a 99.5) and attach to Pin #85.

Run a wire from Pin#86 to a Single Pole Switch and place it where you like out of sight. From the other pole on the switch, run to Ground.

If you like, run a wire from 87A to the Horn and/or Lighting Circuit.

When the switch is OFF nothing happens.

When It's ON and the Brake Pedal is depressed, the engine will shutdown nor will it start, the Horn will sound and the Lights will turn on.

I generally leave my truck running from when its started until I'm done for the day unless I'm on a long troubleshooting job. Along with a fast idle, it stays cold in summer and warm in winter when I get back in.

Originally Posted by ranagent

I've been tinkering with your idea and needed a few clarifications. It appears as though the vehicle will start regardless of the position of the switch? It will kill the engine when you step on the brakes and sound the horn and lights, but only while the brake pedal is pushed right? Seems if they did that a time or 2 they would figure out that all they have to do is clip a wire from the brake pedal and drive away.

I did have to rearrange the relay wiring to get it to work at all so maybe I have it all wrong. Was using a ford relay foab-14b192-aa which from as far as I can tell should be in line with what you are doing.

Originally Posted by whitetmw

I put my relay behind the Cluster and everything is in wire loom. You can't differentiate it from the factory wiring. Thief's don't hand around.

Here is a quick drawing as I have to Bug Out.

Originally Posted by ranagent

That's how I have tried it. Either I don't understand the function, or using the wrong relay. I'm using a foab-14b192-aa relay which I pulled out of the horn or something, common fuse in these vehicles.

This setup doesn't switch off the pcm when the switch is off. Only when the brake pedal is pressed with the switch turned on. And the horn and lights only go when the brakes are on, then stop when you let off?

Originally Posted by Pikachu

Anyone know if transplanting parts out of an Excursion would be feasible to give PATS to a Super Duty? Seems like all it should take is the PCM, ignition lock and maybe some of the wiring, no?

Originally Posted by Pikachu

Why is it a nightmare? You're the first person I've ever heard that from.