what would you replace on a truck w/ 45k miles?
#1
what would you replace on a truck w/ 45k miles?
Hey everyone I have been thinking on what all I need to do to get my old truck in tip top shape. It has low miles but it's an old truck no doubt. It needs a few things I'm aware of like a tank sending unit is bad, the cruise doesn't work and the low fan makes noise but overall the truck is pretty solid.
My question is what all do you guys/gals think would be a good idea to replace. So far i've changed the air filter and have a new fuel filter but what all else? The exhaust shop said my o2 sensor looked good and I know it needs a coolant flush but would you all buy new plugs, wires, rotor and all that or you think it's ok since the truck has only 45k miles? Also what suspension parts go bad b/c I think this truck was used to tow a trailor and it's got some driveline play/wear somewhere..Any ideas would be helpful on what could benefit the truck on fuel milage and drivability. Oh one last thing the steering box is about shot so that needs replacing too.
I've checked the tranny fluid, oil but not the diff or transfer case oil b/c I'm not sure on how to do that...Any help on how to check those fluid levels would be very helpful too. Anything else I'm missing?
My question is what all do you guys/gals think would be a good idea to replace. So far i've changed the air filter and have a new fuel filter but what all else? The exhaust shop said my o2 sensor looked good and I know it needs a coolant flush but would you all buy new plugs, wires, rotor and all that or you think it's ok since the truck has only 45k miles? Also what suspension parts go bad b/c I think this truck was used to tow a trailor and it's got some driveline play/wear somewhere..Any ideas would be helpful on what could benefit the truck on fuel milage and drivability. Oh one last thing the steering box is about shot so that needs replacing too.
I've checked the tranny fluid, oil but not the diff or transfer case oil b/c I'm not sure on how to do that...Any help on how to check those fluid levels would be very helpful too. Anything else I'm missing?
Last edited by choate; 10-18-2014 at 02:12 PM. Reason: spelling
#2
Check your belts and suspension rubber for cracking. Have the trans serviced and have them put the clip in for the filter. As far as the diffs go there are two plugs one to drain the fluid and one to add the fluid. The one to add the fluid is on the side of the diff i believe you can put an extension on a 3/8's ratchet and stick it in the plug and unscrew it.
Replace all fluids mileage or not, time will break it down as well.
Replace all fluids mileage or not, time will break it down as well.
#3
Alright thanks. Some stuff does look new on there like some of the hoses and the serp belt. I can't remember what it was but I remember one day being under it and some of the rubber bushings are bad. That probably needs to be done first so good call on that. Thanks for the info on the differentials. Does the front share the same fluid at the transfer case or is it together? Sorry for the ignorant questions. It's my first 4x4. I'm used to Mustangs and cars
#4
Driver's side of rear diff, next to the pinion, there's a pipe plug that accepts a 3/8" ratchet. No extension needed to remove it, but clean the area around it before removal to avoid introducing dirt to the rear diff. Level should be to the bottom of the plug hole or just below. Front axle, at least for the f250 and f150 trucks, has a male, square pipe plug for oil. Again, fill to bottom of opening. Neither axle has a drain: remove diff cover in rear to drain, and up front I use an empty gear oil bottle with a price of hose stuck on the end to suck old oil thru the fill hole. Use 75-90 or similar gear oil for axles (I used 85-140 but it is thick!) and make sure it has friction modifier if you have a limited slip diff.
Transfer case has two plugs like the one in the rear diff. Upper is to fill and lower is to drain. Use ATF in the tcase.
I agree about checking out bushings. Usual suspects are the radius arm bushings and the axle pivot bushings in the TTB axles. Of cours, also jack up the front end and check for play in ball joints and tie rods.
Transfer case has two plugs like the one in the rear diff. Upper is to fill and lower is to drain. Use ATF in the tcase.
I agree about checking out bushings. Usual suspects are the radius arm bushings and the axle pivot bushings in the TTB axles. Of cours, also jack up the front end and check for play in ball joints and tie rods.
#7
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#8
Join Date: Jul 2014
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Tires...check the date code. Allegedly tires should be replaced evey five years, or so they tell me. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are cheap and yours are 20 years old...you should change those. Check the battery...I would replace with a dry cell so you don't have to worry about corrosion.
Have a blast...sounds like a great truck. Post some pictures.
Have a blast...sounds like a great truck. Post some pictures.
#9
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battery and cables.
all fluids.
all brake and fuel lines.
all seals you can find/think of.
engine tune up and belts.
all bulb sockets inspected,cleaned and bulb grease.
etc.etc.etc.
vehicles hate to sit.be prepared to replace part after parts for a while.stuck brake caliper,pads and shoes falling off the backing plates,wheel cylinders leaking.the list goes on and on.it's not going to be pretty for a while.
tip; amazon prime account.
edit;
just saw your sig.E40D trans.
pull the trans wiring harness connectors and inspect,clean and grease all connections/sensor clips too.
flush/filter.
all fluids.
all brake and fuel lines.
all seals you can find/think of.
engine tune up and belts.
all bulb sockets inspected,cleaned and bulb grease.
etc.etc.etc.
vehicles hate to sit.be prepared to replace part after parts for a while.stuck brake caliper,pads and shoes falling off the backing plates,wheel cylinders leaking.the list goes on and on.it's not going to be pretty for a while.
tip; amazon prime account.
edit;
just saw your sig.E40D trans.
pull the trans wiring harness connectors and inspect,clean and grease all connections/sensor clips too.
flush/filter.
#10
Anything rubber, hoses always look just fine on the outside before they split, there's no way to tell. 30 years, just replace on general principles.
Clean up your ground connections, the main terminal is the negative cable attached to the block, also strap to firewall, frame, etc. These connections are vital and prone to corrosion just like the battery and just as important.
Grounding for any ECUs, "computer" etc. Oftentimes just removing the fasteners and the connectors or component itself and reinstalling is enough to make good contact again, but it's best to clean down to bright shiny metal and treat with grease like NO-OX. Anything that terminates to ground benefits from this. Manufacturers tend to use a lot of dissimilar metal fasteners and components, and these generate a weak current and corrosion. eventually the connection fails altogether, but it's easy to prevent. Costs nothing to do clean up and can save costly electrical repairs and downtime.
A fresh thermostat will help get the engine up to temperature quickly, flush the system and radiator thoroughly will keep things circulating as they should.
Clean up your ground connections, the main terminal is the negative cable attached to the block, also strap to firewall, frame, etc. These connections are vital and prone to corrosion just like the battery and just as important.
Grounding for any ECUs, "computer" etc. Oftentimes just removing the fasteners and the connectors or component itself and reinstalling is enough to make good contact again, but it's best to clean down to bright shiny metal and treat with grease like NO-OX. Anything that terminates to ground benefits from this. Manufacturers tend to use a lot of dissimilar metal fasteners and components, and these generate a weak current and corrosion. eventually the connection fails altogether, but it's easy to prevent. Costs nothing to do clean up and can save costly electrical repairs and downtime.
A fresh thermostat will help get the engine up to temperature quickly, flush the system and radiator thoroughly will keep things circulating as they should.
#11
Thanks everybody. The guy I bought it off works for himself and has lived in the same house right next to his building he sells cars out of for like 50 years so he told me he has to be honest and not sell crap. They did some work to the truck as it has a new battery, oil change, some of the main hoses, brand new Cooper AS tires etc. I can't tell if everything else is original or not like the plugs etc but a distributor isn't cheap to me The plugs, wires and fluids I could handle right now. The tranny fluid looks brand new to me so I don't see any reason to change it. It's like clear pink and thin.
I've posted a few pics around but here is a couple. Thanks all for the help
I've posted a few pics around but here is a couple. Thanks all for the help
#15